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vinhnguyen54 D26/P60 XPE-R4 & XP-G2 Drop In
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Very focused and throws great! Neutral tint is about 4000K
XP-G2, Neutral tint, Smooth reflector
Multi-Mode High Current & Low Voltage option: 2.7-4.5V max
B: No mode memory
8) High, Medium, LowLow
2.1A
Solder fill $5
Would like some cobber tape for wrapping it in Solarforce
total = $47?
Transaction ID # 5SU------312ESuperorb
Enlightened
My head is spinning with all the variables here, I've been out of the game for over a year now. What is the difference between all your available emitters?
When you say Lowlow, about how many lumens is that approx? It'll be a nightstand light and I use it a lot at night and my current 5L blinds me in the middle of the night. Wife says it's too bright too and gotta keep her happy
Is it possible for me to change the modes if I want something different? I've been soldering stuff for a while now so that's not a problem.
When you say Lowlow, about how many lumens is that approx? It'll be a nightstand light and I use it a lot at night and my current 5L blinds me in the middle of the night. Wife says it's too bright too and gotta keep her happy
Is it possible for me to change the modes if I want something different? I've been soldering stuff for a while now so that's not a problem.XP-G2: 500 lumen max, Great throw,
XML-U3: 1300 Lumen max, OK throw
XP-E2: 400 lumen max, excellent throw
low low = 5-10 lumen
Moonlight - .5-3 lumen
XML-U3: 1300 Lumen max, OK throw
XP-E2: 400 lumen max, excellent throw
low low = 5-10 lumen
Moonlight - .5-3 lumen
My head is spinning with all the variables here, I've been out of the game for over a year now. What is the difference between all your available emitters?
When you say Lowlow, about how many lumens is that approx? It'll be a nightstand light and I use it a lot at night and my current 5L blinds me in the middle of the night. Wife says it's too bright too and gotta keep her happy
Some ways to further optimize the heatsinking in a Solarforce L2P host? Ordered the XP-G2 2.1A. I just read over at budgetlightforum that a star-mounted XP-G2 run at 2.1A dropped down to the same lumens as a 1.4A after a few minutes.
Heat cause every LED too loose efficiency. Electrons are just bouncing around crazy but not really moving forward. Some people wants the most lumen out of their LED even if its only for a couple minutes. If you want greater runtime you can use medium. If you think 1.4A is the best current I can adjust the current to 1.4A. That's all up to you.
ALL INFO BELOW ARE JUST MY EXPERIENCE AND OPINIONS
Greater mass and good contacts will always equal better heat sinking. Heat sinking is pretty much like water flow. Getting rid of the heat bottle necks helps heat and current to flow more freely. Here are the bottle necks in the order that I see it.
1) The thin silicone/fiber/PCB material right below the LED. Peeling this layer off exposed the aluminum or copper base below. If the base is copper we can direct copper bond the LED to the base by cutting down the middle of the LED and solder flow.
2) The brass pill that the LED+PCB base is mounted on. The pill itself does not have a enough mass so heat builds up here before it has a chance to get to the host. Solder fill adds mass to the inside of the pill increase this bottle neck capacity.
3) Since the reflector is what makes contact to the host we must thermal glue the refelctor to the pill so that there is a good heat bridge.
4) Aluminum foil is now necessary to bridge the heat from the reflector to the host.
Some people complain when a host gets too hot but this is actually a good thing. Some host out there have incredible mass but the user fail to make the appropriate heat bridges as above so there is a discontinued path. The Fm Cooly is an example of a host that has great heat sinking but very hard to bridge the heat from the drop in to be host due to the deep installation design.
A lot of people worry that heat will kill their LED. I am not for several reason.
1) A LED sustain more heat during solder flow than it will experience during use. Yet the LED survies.
2) I ran LEDs in host to get them so hot where the light is too hot to pick up by hand and the LED survives.
3) If the LED dies its cheap for ME to replace. So I don't really care if it dies.
4) I have never notice a LED output degradation due to heat over time. As far as I know it a LED gets brighter overtime. The Burn-in effect works. May be the forward voltage gets lower or internal Resistance is reduced due to the great amount of current flowing overtime. I don't know but it's just what I notice.
Heat Safety To The User is the biggest concern to me. In most of my lights I push High to the MAX! I use my light responsibly and I educate people around me to use my lights responsibly too to prevent injuries. Otherwise just under driven a light to be on the safe side.
Most of us don't need as much lumen as we think for the task we intended the light for. However for me, only as much lumen as possible on high is acceptable for my lights. I know medium is always there for me if the light gets too hot.
Last edited:
What a great response Wayne! Couldn't have asked for more!
I had no clue what solder fill was, but now I know
I still wants the 2.1 A drop-in as ordered. 1.4 A is not an option on high - that's what I got med for.
When will the drop-in be shipped?
I had no clue what solder fill was, but now I know
I still wants the 2.1 A drop-in as ordered. 1.4 A is not an option on high - that's what I got med for.
When will the drop-in be shipped?
Great Wayne. I'm looking forward to drop it in my L2P!
kengps
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just tried it out. A really nice thrower. About 16,000 lux. Perfect spot and secondary corona. No rings whatsoever. It out-throws my 4.9 Amp XML-U2 slightly (16K vs 14K) but does it at well under half the power. A nice light.
Just got the XP-G2 neutral 2.1A and it works just perfect! Tighter hotspot as expected and what a beautiful tint!
Measured 2.08 A @ the tailcap using a cheap Trustfire 18650 and a discount DMM. Will try an IMR when it arrives. It should be the same with this driver?
Upgraded my Solarforce L2P with a Mcclicky. No need for the tape/shrinktube-isolation-tweak when using the original tailcap. Just needs to bore the white plastic retainer ring up to 9.5 mm.
Mcclicky bought from illumination supply is not too soft in my opinion - just perfect.
Wayne which driver do you use? Is it the same as the one you uses for your XM-L drop-ins?
Is it possible to change it to memory? I got one "no memory" but IMO the UI doesn't work very well and would like to resolder if possible.
I see the 2 jumper you've soldered on the driver. What are the settings for these?
Thanks!
Measured 2.08 A @ the tailcap using a cheap Trustfire 18650 and a discount DMM. Will try an IMR when it arrives. It should be the same with this driver?
Upgraded my Solarforce L2P with a Mcclicky. No need for the tape/shrinktube-isolation-tweak when using the original tailcap. Just needs to bore the white plastic retainer ring up to 9.5 mm.
Mcclicky bought from illumination supply is not too soft in my opinion - just perfect.
Wayne which driver do you use? Is it the same as the one you uses for your XM-L drop-ins?
Is it possible to change it to memory? I got one "no memory" but IMO the UI doesn't work very well and would like to resolder if possible.
I see the 2 jumper you've soldered on the driver. What are the settings for these?
Thanks!
Newbie here - folks pointed me at your XPG2 single mode as a brighter single mode option than one of my other drop-ins I have now.
This will be for a Surefire 6P, running a single 17650 (soon a single 18650). Want a good thrower - will not mod it any in the future.
What is your suggestion for me?
What is with the solder fill?
Can you still include a McClicky switch (black button) for the standard 6P tailcap too?
This will be for a Surefire 6P, running a single 17650 (soon a single 18650). Want a good thrower - will not mod it any in the future.
What is your suggestion for me?
What is with the solder fill?
Can you still include a McClicky switch (black button) for the standard 6P tailcap too?
I heard illuminationsupply is selling MCClikies.
I suggest XP-E2 for teh BEST THROW in a refelctor P60. XP-G2 for Medium Throw but greater lumen. And XML-U3 for OK throw but massive lumen.
This is a post number 72 from this thread:
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26/P60 XPE-R4 & XP-G2 Drop In
Originally Posted by troelskc 
Some ways to further optimize the heatsinking in a Solarforce L2P host? Ordered the XP-G2 2.1A. I just read over at budgetlightforum that a star-mounted XP-G2 run at 2.1A dropped down to the same lumens as a 1.4A after a few minutes.
Heat cause every LED too loose efficiency. Electrons are just bouncing around crazy but not really moving forward. Some people wants the most lumen out of their LED even if its only for a couple minutes. If you want greater runtime you can use medium. If you think 1.4A is the best current I can adjust the current to 1.4A. That's all up to you.
ALL INFO BELOW ARE JUST MY EXPERIENCE AND OPINIONS
Greater mass and good contacts will always equal better heat sinking. Heat sinking is pretty much like water flow. Getting rid of the heat bottle necks helps heat and current to flow more freely. Here are the bottle necks in the order that I see it.
1) The thin silicone/fiber/PCB material right below the LED. Peeling this layer off exposed the aluminum or copper base below. If the base is copper we can direct copper bond the LED to the base by cutting down the middle of the LED and solder flow.
2) The brass pill that the LED+PCB base is mounted on. The pill itself does not have a enough mass so heat builds up here before it has a chance to get to the host. Solder fill adds mass to the inside of the pill increase this bottle neck capacity.
3) Since the reflector is what makes contact to the host we must thermal glue the refelctor to the pill so that there is a good heat bridge.
4) Aluminum foil is now necessary to bridge the heat from the reflector to the host.
Some people complain when a host gets too hot but this is actually a good thing. Some host out there have incredible mass but the user fail to make the appropriate heat bridges as above so there is a discontinued path. The Fm Cooly is an example of a host that has great heat sinking but very hard to bridge the heat from the drop in to be host due to the deep installation design.
A lot of people worry that heat will kill their LED. I am not for several reason.
1) A LED sustain more heat during solder flow than it will experience during use. Yet the LED survies.
2) I ran LEDs in host to get them so hot where the light is too hot to pick up by hand and the LED survives.
3) If the LED dies its cheap for ME to replace. So I don't really care if it dies.
4) I have never notice a LED output degradation due to heat over time. As far as I know it a LED gets brighter overtime. The Burn-in effect works. May be the forward voltage gets lower or internal Resistance is reduced due to the great amount of current flowing overtime. I don't know but it's just what I notice.
Heat Safety To The User is the biggest concern to me. In most of my lights I push High to the MAX! I use my light responsibly and I educate people around me to use my lights responsibly too to prevent injuries. Otherwise just under driven a light to be on the safe side.
Most of us don't need as much lumen as we think for the task we intended the light for. However for me, only as much lumen as possible on high is acceptable for my lights. I know medium is always there for me if the light gets too hot.
I suggest XP-E2 for teh BEST THROW in a refelctor P60. XP-G2 for Medium Throw but greater lumen. And XML-U3 for OK throw but massive lumen.
This is a post number 72 from this thread:
Some ways to further optimize the heatsinking in a Solarforce L2P host? Ordered the XP-G2 2.1A. I just read over at budgetlightforum that a star-mounted XP-G2 run at 2.1A dropped down to the same lumens as a 1.4A after a few minutes.
Heat cause every LED too loose efficiency. Electrons are just bouncing around crazy but not really moving forward. Some people wants the most lumen out of their LED even if its only for a couple minutes. If you want greater runtime you can use medium. If you think 1.4A is the best current I can adjust the current to 1.4A. That's all up to you.
ALL INFO BELOW ARE JUST MY EXPERIENCE AND OPINIONS
Greater mass and good contacts will always equal better heat sinking. Heat sinking is pretty much like water flow. Getting rid of the heat bottle necks helps heat and current to flow more freely. Here are the bottle necks in the order that I see it.
1) The thin silicone/fiber/PCB material right below the LED. Peeling this layer off exposed the aluminum or copper base below. If the base is copper we can direct copper bond the LED to the base by cutting down the middle of the LED and solder flow.
2) The brass pill that the LED+PCB base is mounted on. The pill itself does not have a enough mass so heat builds up here before it has a chance to get to the host. Solder fill adds mass to the inside of the pill increase this bottle neck capacity.
3) Since the reflector is what makes contact to the host we must thermal glue the refelctor to the pill so that there is a good heat bridge.
4) Aluminum foil is now necessary to bridge the heat from the reflector to the host.
Some people complain when a host gets too hot but this is actually a good thing. Some host out there have incredible mass but the user fail to make the appropriate heat bridges as above so there is a discontinued path. The Fm Cooly is an example of a host that has great heat sinking but very hard to bridge the heat from the drop in to be host due to the deep installation design.
A lot of people worry that heat will kill their LED. I am not for several reason.
1) A LED sustain more heat during solder flow than it will experience during use. Yet the LED survies.
2) I ran LEDs in host to get them so hot where the light is too hot to pick up by hand and the LED survives.
3) If the LED dies its cheap for ME to replace. So I don't really care if it dies.
4) I have never notice a LED output degradation due to heat over time. As far as I know it a LED gets brighter overtime. The Burn-in effect works. May be the forward voltage gets lower or internal Resistance is reduced due to the great amount of current flowing overtime. I don't know but it's just what I notice.
Heat Safety To The User is the biggest concern to me. In most of my lights I push High to the MAX! I use my light responsibly and I educate people around me to use my lights responsibly too to prevent injuries. Otherwise just under driven a light to be on the safe side.
Most of us don't need as much lumen as we think for the task we intended the light for. However for me, only as much lumen as possible on high is acceptable for my lights. I know medium is always there for me if the light gets too hot.
I'll take an XP-E2, with solder fill.
I assume the 3-18V option is the safer choice with RCR123's around? What advantage does the 2.8-6V offer?
1 Mode High Voltage & Low Current : 3-18V - Regulated Single Mode pull 1.5-2.2A Not the brightest options has a big voltage range. Same brightness with 1 li-ion, 2 li-ion 3 li-ion, or 4 li-ion.
1 Mode High Current and Medium Voltage: 2.8-6V
I assume the 3-18V option is the safer choice with RCR123's around? What advantage does the 2.8-6V offer?
1 Mode High Voltage & Low Current : 3-18V - Regulated Single Mode pull 1.5-2.2A Not the brightest options has a big voltage range. Same brightness with 1 li-ion, 2 li-ion 3 li-ion, or 4 li-ion.
1 Mode High Current and Medium Voltage: 2.8-6V
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