VSS-3A

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tweeter166

Newly Enlightened
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May 17, 2013
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First off I want to say hello and thanks for letting me on this board.. I hope I dont get shuned..lol..

What has finaily brough me to this web site is my VSS-3A score.. I got 3 complete set ups with the gen sets to run them.. I do need a few parts to complete all 3 lights witch I will post in the wanted ads..

Military stuff and Lights is on my list of things I love and these 3's hit both of thos subjects so I had to have the 3's when I found them.. I am working on a tripod for it.. I been thinking about a yoke idea that will fit in the pintel of my stand up M2HB tripod.. What have you guys done for mounts or tripods?

Please post uo ideas and pictures please
 
I didn't find it right away so I'll keep looking but member TVODRD made a few tripods for some of us members a while back. My pic is not the best but shows the idea. I'll keep looking for his desert pic post that shows the entire assembled unit. High power military lights are "my thing", too.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...c-Tank-Light&p=2073206&viewfull=1#post2073206

What did you get in the way of cables? Most, if not all of us had to find the Amphenol connectors and make up our own. But you say you got some gensets with yours so maybe you already have what's required? Post some pics.

Here's Larry's mount thread:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?118432-AN-VSS-3A-mount-(Pics)&highlight=tripod
 
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I got 2 gen sets. 1 gas and 1 diesel, 3 lights, 2 main control boxes, 3 remote control boxes, 3 main control box to light cables, what i thought was 3 main power cables but 2 ended up haveing a smaller ends on them then needed..

I will porb sell some of this stuff but want to get it all up and working so i am looking for 1 main control box {3A}.. 3 remote box cables or the ends to make the cables and 2 power cords or the ends to make the cables.. Where can i get this stuff?

on the power cable i got i am going to change 1 connector to a nato slave cable connector and change the diesel 28vdc output gen set connector to a nato slave cable end. Then i can use the gen set with my nato slave cable to power pumps, lights, or jump start my military trucks or equipment. or just plug the light into my slave port on my truck..

Since i am changeing 1 end of my power cable to a nato slave cable connector i need to know witch wire is positive? A or B on the control box?
 
Main Control boxes are very difficult to come by. I found one on ebay about 9 months ago but nothing for prior 3 or more years. You might know already there are 3 or more versions for -3 and -3a. I forget but one can be used for both models but the other - only for the one model designed for.

The connector on the light is a different thread than all the other, same size connectors. Does yor box-to-light cable actually thread onto the lights connector at least two or more turns? If so, you are the only one to have such a connector! There is no "original" cable from the light to the main control box. Power and signals went through a control box-to-turret cable and then thru the turret connector and then thru a turret connector-to-light cable. This last cable, none of us has ever seen and it is threaded to mate with the light.

None of us that i know of use the remote control box.

The first thread linked to has all the amphenol connectors listed by part number. The cheapest place i found is allied electric but they are expensive, IIRC 125-$150 per end with backshells and strain relief. Be very careful when handling the blue plastic inserts. They chip and crack extremely easily. Youll need a very high wattage soldering iron or micro butane torch to make the main power solder joints. I used ultra high strand count "Carol" brand Vutron #4 cable from mcmasterCarr for power leads all the way from power source to the lights connector.

I dont remember right now if A or B is positive. I think A is but will check for you.
 
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Main Control boxes are very difficult to come by. I found one on ebay about 9 months ago but nothing for prior 3 or more years. You might know already there are 3 or more versions for -3 and -3a. I forget but one can be used for both models but the other - only for the one model designed for.

The connector on the light is a different thread than all the other, same size connectors. Does yor box-to-light cable actually thread onto the lights connector at least two or more turns? If so, you are the only one to have such a connector! There is no "original" cable from the light to the main control box. Power and signals went through a control box-to-turret cable and then thru the turret connector and then thru a turret connector-to-light cable. This last cable, none of us has ever seen and it is threaded to mate with the light.

None of us that i know of use the remote control box.

The first thread linked to has all the amphenol connectors listed by part number. The cheapest place i found is allied electric but they are expensive, IIRC 125-$150 per end with backshells and strain relief. Be very careful when handling the blue plastic inserts. They chip and crack extremely easily. Youll need a very high wattage soldering iron or micro butane torch to make the main power solder joints. I used ultra high strand count "Carol" brand Vutron #4 cable from mcmasterCarr for power leads all the way from power source to the lights connector.

I dont remember right now if A or B is positive. I think A is but will check for you.



Please let me know witch is positive.. A or B

Yes i know theres like 5 diff 3s and 3As ant there? my 2 main control boxes end in NSN 6065 and my 3 lights end in NSN 6066 so my boxs match my lights so i guess i am looking for a NSN 6065. Whats the 1 you found on ebay? I been trying to list an WTB ad in the market place but it wont let me?

witch connector is the "IIRC 125-$150 per end with backshells and strain relief" is it the main power connector?

Wheres the list of amphenol connectors? I followed the link but didnt see the part numbers for the connectors

I knew they went through a turrent connector but forgot until you said that so i went and checks.. My light cables screw on to the light but not the control box.. the control box has a finer thread on it then the cable has.. Not i want to change this plug so its right.. are they available?

I want to get or make the cable for the remote box.. i got military trucks and stuff and i want to be able to set this up on a truck on a tripod and be able to run it from inside the cab or from a M2HB mount. Does Aillied have these connectors also?


Thanks for your help
 
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When standing behind the control box as if operating the light, "A" is on the left of the box connector right next to the internal alignment tang. This "A" is Positive.

Send me an email and I'll email you a PDF copy of the "Mother of all Manuals" on the VSS-3(a). I originally had one of the OEM, yellow cover copys of what I thought was a comprehensive manual. Compared to the PDF, it's nothing. It held my attention all the way through reading it at one sitting. Some really great technical info.

Connector P/N thread post: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...c-Tank-Light&p=1871898&viewfull=1#post1871898 Don't pay any attention to the prices there. I just checked on the first one listed and it's $114, not including the strain relief:

ww.alliedelec.com/Search/SearchResults.aspx?Term=605-7143&dsNav=N:0,Ntk:Primary|605%2f-7143|3|

It appears as though the cable you have is the one that went from the turret connector to the light. You are lucky there. None of us could ever find the correct thread pitch ring nut for the light end. You have that so you can buy the fine pitch end as listed in the post above. I'd recommend you get all 90 degree backshells, not straight configuration. The cables flow much more easily with 90 degree fittings. I don't remember anyone looking for or finding the remote box Amphenol connectors.

Just found my post on finding the ebay box:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...c-Tank-Light&p=3957729&viewfull=1#post3957729

Just a technical point. These lights are not "regulated". The higher the Voltage you feed it, the higher the Wattage at the bulb and the brighter the output. The PDF manual indicates a max of 28.5V so may want to check that your gensets conform. On the other hand, don't run them under 28V or you're not seeing what they can do. Don't be disappointed when you first throw the switch to power it up. The first switch position is I.R. so you won't see anything. Lift the toggle and move to visible light position. Make sure no one is anywhere near the beam or they'll suffer permanent eye damage.
 
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