Warm xmas lights

Oznog

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 2, 2006
Messages
595
I finally got one of these "warm white" 30x light strings I ordered off of eBay. Thing was under $4 shipped.

The LEDs are indeed warm white. They're VERY close in incan, although the color is inconsistent. The 5mm LEDs are inverted-dome, which is exactly what I was looking for (and they're a bit hard to find). The light distribution is quite excellent.

I DIG it. They're charming! Warm color temp, they don't suck ungodly amounts of power for the amount of light they make like incan xmas lights, and they shouldn't burn out at the ugly rate incans do.

But it's a retarded 4x AA supply. All the LEDs are in parallel, with no resistors that I can see. With a 4.5v power supply hooked up, they draw about 35mA per LED, and they get hot. I reduced the voltage to 3.7v and it's 20mA per LED. Also, the wiring is NOT outdoor wiring, it's neither UV resistant nor does it look waterproof. I wouldn't battery-power it anyways.

I'm kinda wondering about remaking it by inserting them onto some old green x-mas light wiring I have, in series so I can drive them with proper current control, and leave them outside as tree lights. I'd want to do this with a LOT of strings. But... it does sound like an excessive amount of work, and I'm not sure how to pull off the driver. A FWB and resistor is not gonna cut it, those things flicker in a way that really annoys me. I know there are driver chips out there, but the parts cost and making the board are problematic.

At that point I'm just scrapping the LEDs of course... it's much more work to strip and unsolder them out of the existing string than buying new ones. But there's no way to get 5mm warm white inverted dome LEDs for ~$0.13/ea, is there?

I guess I could in theory take like 6 of these parallel strings and wire them all in series off a 24v transformer with a current-control driver. But that doesn't result in balanced current per LED. In fact if one LED goes "open" the current-control driver will actually increase current to the other LEDs on that parallel group, potentially making it worse than constant-voltage control. And... well, the wiring's not UV resistant anyways, it won't survive long outside. But then again, is that green small x-mas light wiring UV resistant either? I thought it was but now that I think about it, it may just be flame-retardant. I seem to recall someone who had theirs out for years and I think it was in bad shape eventually.

Actually how do white LEDs themselves take sun exposure? Does direct sunlight degrade the phosphor on it or UV-rot the plastic case?
 
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Don't put any effort into this junk. At 20ma the LEDs would have faded in output after a few weeks. They use the cheapest Chinese supplier to make this stuff and it will show.

LED epoxy could be damaged from UV as well. High end LED makers may use UV stabilizer in their epoxy to make them last longer in outdoor use. Cree uses this in their LEDs since they cater to the video panel/ sign market. Yet another reason to buy quality LEDs
 
Hmm, well, what other sources of 5mm warm white inverted dome LEDs are there?

I guess I could test them for fade too. Wouldn't be too hard.

Actually the other thing was maybe party lights to put on my camper van while running off the battery. Incan xmas lights can drain the batt somewhat significantly over the course of several hours. At least with that kind of usage, they wouldn't be used enough hours to fade.
 
It should not be hard to rig up a cheap linear regulator to mimic the
battery supply. There must be common current-limiting in there somewhere.

This could be powered from a semi-regulated dc supply of (say) 6-12v
with no flicker; perhaps an old cellphone charger or other AC adaptor.
The regulator could be constant-voltage (which you can tweek for desired
current/brightness) or constant-current mode.

You can maintain the parallel arrangement; I have a strip light with 21
parallel LEDs with similar package (though cool white) which tracks
brightness fairly well even down to low levels.

How many LEDs are you dealing with?

Small aside, I got some nice warm-white line-powered Xmas lights (70)
and tried to solve the flicker with in-line FWR. Unfortunately, the two
sub-strings were wired to opposite polarity, so I got one half lit with no
flicker and higher brightness, the other side dark...

Dave
 
Well, at 20mA per LED, a single parallel string of 30x take 600mA. That can be a bit much for a cheap linear reg, and it's most likely I'd only be able to get a 5v supply. Ideally I'd have a lot of strings and I'd either have to find a lot of small 5v supplies or one really big one.

Yeah I could see LED xmas lights all over the past few years, with really annoying flicker. That problem doesn't HAVE to be there with 60Hz-powered LEDs, though. Filtering can make "good enough" constant-current.
 
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