Wayne Or Others: Sandwich For 4XAA Mini Mag?

[Gene]

I have a very old mini mag that has a tube for an extra 2XAA making it a 4XAA mini mag. Is there a sandwich or a way to put one together that would be bright and white that will work with 4XAA's and fit into the mini mag head?

 

[dat2zip]

All the modules that are made on the Sandwich Shoppe actually go inside the battery tube. The plastic assembly that holds the std bulb is removed, the module dropped in ahead of the batteries.

So, they really don't go inside the head.

As for a 4AA module, all the modules are step up and are limited by the Vf of the 1W/3W LED which is around 3.5V. All battery combinations that stay 3V and less are suitable for the modules.

In a 4AA, the voltage would be too high for the std modules.

It's possible if you have the modders cabability to make a Downboy module. While possible, I know I've only built one to very that it can be done. The board to board interface requires you to manually wire the converter to the emitter board. This requires 3 wires and is not that difficult if you can solder, and work with small parts.

The NX05 optics replaces the standard reflector and the head and optics in the newer 2AA work perfect. The older minimags appear to have a mechanical difference and after installing the NX05 optics in the head, it's possible to not be able to screw the head all the way down to have the optics mate with the LED.

Since this is a non standard configuration, you need to be careful that the module may fit, but the head and optics may not work as expected.

BTW: How's the trout fishing up there. I hope it has recovered after the train wreck some year back. The trout was traced back to originate there in Dunsmir.

Wayne

 

[tvodrd]

Gene,

I'm not a collector, but that light sounds very "collectable." (I've never heard of it!) You might consider making a post in the collectors forum.

Larry

 

[EvilLithiumMan]

I have a MadMax+ Wide Open module with a LIII S bin emitter. It is very bright and white. After gleening through all the specification data and asking questions, it appears that the emitter is being driven to a maximum of 2.4W, and a typical value of 2.1 watts.

I decided (hoped, really) that I could safely operate the module with 3 AA cells and achive a full 3 watts. Mechanically, the mod is a success. Operationally, I can't really say the light is visibly brighter. I mean it looks great. But when I revert back to two cells, it seems about the same. Current draw with 3 AA cells is 1.15 amps vs. .95 amps for two cells.

Anyway, if your 4 AA cell light has collection value, and it does sound unique, I say keep it stock. If you are bound and determined to use it with a MadMax, limit it to 3 cells and you should be O.K.

 

[Miciobigio]

EvilLithiumMan ,

do you think that is safe to run a BB+Lux3 or a MM+Lux3 using a Lithium cell 3.6-4.2 max Volt ?

Thanks

 

[Wylie]

Shame on you guys for giving me these bad ideas! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I was thinking of running three Nimhs with my MMWO/TVOK but didn't and probably will not. Even with only two AAs I feel the heat building inside the flashlight and don't want to waste the module myself. I like that extension on the minimag!

 

[Empath]

Gene, I'm just curious. Was the extension for your MiniMag part of the original package, or was it sold as an accessory by another manufacturer?

 

[Gene]

Wayne,
I didn't phrase that very well because I knew the module doesn't go into the head but rather the battery tube. Thanks for the correction. These very early mm's do have some differences in dimensions compared with the newer ones. Yes indeed, the river has restored itself and the trout fishing is as good as ever!

Larry and others,
This mini mag is one of the very early originals. I should have clarified that this has TWO 1XAA extensions. They were made by an aftermarket company shortly after the mini mag came out and match the old mm's knurling and color perfectly. They were called the "Maximizer" and "Super Maximizer". I like the feel of the old mag with these old extensions. I'm running an Opalec NewBeam with this 4XAA configuration and it works well and runs almost forever. I just thought maybe I'd like to try a module that could really throw out some light using the 4XAA mini mag.

 

[dat2zip]

3AA is a no no for a module. Just to be clear, that is running the module out of specification. While it may work, it is not sanctioned by the MFG (me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ).

Wayne

 

[EvilLithiumMan]

[ QUOTE ]
Miciobigio said:
EvilLithiumMan ,

do you think that is safe to run a BB+Lux3 or a MM+Lux3 using a Lithium cell 3.6-4.2 max Volt ?

Thanks


[/ QUOTE ]

Based on what I've seen so far, I'd say it would work. But Holy Smokes guys, I'm just an average Joe trying to learn more on my own. If you turn a 100 dollars worth of electronics and emitters into ash based on my advice, don't come crying to me! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

There's lot's of good formulas on Wayne's technical support page. And one of the CPF members, tylerdurden, appears to have quite a bit of knowledge and experience working with these components. You can get some good insight from reading any of his threads in this forum.

As to my MiniMag mod, I did a small emperical test of the brighness increase. I used my digital camera to take a picture using only the MiniMag as the light source. For the two cells, the exposure was .8 seconds at F4. With three cells, the exposure was .6 seconds at F4. If I remember my photo exposure math correctly, this means my mod is 66% (2/3) brighter. Had the exposure time dropped to .4 seconds, the increase would have been 100%, i.e. - twice as bright. So, it's measureably brighter, but doesn't really appear so great to my eyes. I'm still not convinced the mod is worth draining an additional cell and jepardizing the long term reliability of the module.

 

[dat2zip]

If you want to be sure on a 3AA configuration and you have a DMM, here's a good test to ensure you will be safe.

A high Vf Luxeon is what's needed here. You can measure the module in a 2AA configuration in candle mode.

In this mode, using welding goggles, carefully measure the voltage at the LED. Add 0.4V to this. <font color="red"> If this voltage exceeds your 3AA battery voltage under load, this will put the LED in DD and the converter will not be doing anything. This can likely result in damage.</font>

<font color="green"> If the LED Vf + 0.4V is less than the 3AA voltage, you are safe and it is OK to run on 3AA.</font> Remember, 3 NiMH and 3 Alkaline are different voltages so be aware that it may be safe on 3 NiMH and not 3 Alkaline.

As always, play it safe and be sure before doing the mod.

Wayne

 

[EvilLithiumMan]

Wayne,

The Vf on my LIII S bin is 3.72v - adding .4 gives me 4.12v as my 'magic' number. When my Nimh cells come fresh out of my Maha 401 charger they measure 1.42v, giving a total of 4.26v, theorectically too high. But just letting the cells sit for an hour out of the charger allows the voltage to drop to 1.35. This gives a safe total of 4.05v. And of course the cells quickly go to their nominal operating level of approx. 1.27v when under load. I guess that explains my apparent success with three Nimh cells.

I do have one question about 'direct drive' DD mode. I assume this means that there is no current limiting, other than the internal impedance of the cells, so the emitter is at risk of burning out. Is the same 'unlimited' current also passing through the IC, diode and inductor, endangering those components as well? Thanks!

 

[dat2zip]

[ QUOTE ]
EvilLithiumMan said:
Wayne,

I do have one question about 'direct drive' DD mode. I assume this means that there is no current limiting, other than the internal impedance of the cells, so the emitter is at risk of burning out. Is the same 'unlimited' current also passing through the IC, diode and inductor, endangering those components as well? Thanks!

[/ QUOTE ]

Under a module DD, all the current passes through components in one way or another. So, it's possible to let the "magic" smoke out of the parts or blow the Luxeon.

Typically this is considered a somewhat lossy resistor and should never be considered a replacement for a plain simple resistor. I would consider it a very expensive resistor and it's possible to blow easier as well.

Wayne

 

[Gene]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif