What did I do wrong?

[IowaWalker]

I did this mod today...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=167866

But I used a 2D M@G light, not 3D... so, I finished my mod... turned it on... and no light :shrug:. Is a 2D strong enough to turn the LED on?

I hooked the output of the switch, Pos of the M@G to the center of the VReg board, I hooked, the Neg to the outer ring of the VReg board. Then I hooked the center of the board to the non U connector of the LED, and I hooked the U connector to the Q2 connector on the board... When I had no light , I cut the wires on the LED and checked my voltage, I am getting 3.186V measured at the output of the board. I have tried putting the LED back in the circuit, one direction I get no current flow, the other direction (which I think is the wrong direction) I get current flow, but it is dropping fast and still no light... I must have fried my LED, but I am sure I hooked it up with the proper polarity to start with... anyone have any suggestions? I did buy a spare LED... but I am not about to use it until someone tells me what I did wrong this time.

 

[wildstar87]

Well assuming you used exactly the same board, you don't have enough voltage to run it. The AMC7135 board is a "buck" driver so needs the voltage to be higher than the vF of the LED which in the case of an SSC P4 is probably around 3.7v

2D batteries using Alkalines is 3.0v, and Ni-MH is 2.4v so you can see those aren't enough to drive that board properly.

What you need is a "boost" driver, this thread here has some links for some. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188227

At least that's my guess without knowing anything further.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Micro puck it!

 

[IowaWalker]

I did use the exact board, I bought 10 of them from dealextreme. So I guess I have to use a 3D MAG light. I want to do something with this 2D so I will look for a boost driver.
Sgt. LED I looked for info on the micro pucks but I never could find anything, do you have a link where they can be purchased?

Thanks!!!!

 

[Monolith]

You can also keep everything the same with your 2D and just change your battery type. A single lithium ion battery will power your driver (eg, 18650). You'd need to make a tube and some type of spring extension for it to work.

 

[Gryloc]

+1 on what Sgt. LED said!

The Micro Puck can be found at LEDsupply.com

They have three versions, the standard version, the high output version, and the super high output version. Each one puts out 350mA, 400mA, and 500mA of current, respectably. These will boost your 2.4V to 3.0V battery output to the exact voltage that the LED needs to maintain the programmed current.

You can choose any current you want, with more current providing more brightness and slightly less runtime. You can even buy two, or even three of these Micro Pucks and run them in parallel! That means that you can provide 1000mA to your Seoul P4 by getting the two of the 500mA Micro Puck drivers. At 1A, your Seoul P4 will sing!

Oh, if you wired the LED in direct drive with just the batteries, you may be able to get it to light some. This is a good way to check to see if your LED is fine (it will be -don't worry), since the absolute minimum voltage to get the LED to light should be below 3V. Plus, if you get it hooked up backwards, 3V is not enough voltage to mess up the LED. However, if it does not light up, do not assume the LED does not work. Your LED emitter may have an unusually high Vf. That is perfectly fine.

So, pick up a few Micro Pucks, or use one more battery (a 3D light) for your existing AMC driver circuit, and your light will provide you plenty of joy! Good luck with your project. It sounds very nice so far! :thumbsup:

-Tony

 

[Gunner12]

You might be able to fit 3C batteries in there. That would make it work.

There are also some cheap boost drivers on DX.

 

[LukeA]

+1 on what Sgt. LED said!

The Micro Puck can be found at LEDsupply.com

They have three versions, the standard version, the high output version, and the super high output version. Each one puts out 350mA, 400mA, and 500mA of current, respectably. These will boost your 2.4V to 3.0V battery output to the exact voltage that the LED needs to maintain the programmed current.

You can choose any current you want, with more current providing more brightness and slightly less runtime. You can even buy two, or even three of these Micro Pucks and run them in parallel! That means that you can provide 1000mA to your Seoul P4 by getting the two of the 500mA Micro Puck drivers. At 1A, your Seoul P4 will sing!

Oh, if you wired the LED in direct drive with just the batteries, you may be able to get it to light some. This is a good way to check to see if your LED is fine (it will be -don't worry), since the absolute minimum voltage to get the LED to light should be below 3V. Plus, if you get it hooked up backwards, 3V is not enough voltage to mess up the LED. However, if it does not light up, do not assume the LED does not work. Your LED emitter may have an unusually high Vf. That is perfectly fine.

So, pick up a few Micro Pucks, or use one more battery (a 3D light) for your existing AMC driver circuit, and your light will provide you plenty of joy! Good luck with your project. It sounds very nice so far! :thumbsup:

-Tony

+1 on this, also to Sgt LED for getting to it first

 

[IowaWalker]

I have a bad LED... I bought a 3D M@G today and moved all of the mod. parts over to the new body... still no light... I pulled out a new LED, and hooked it up in the correct polarity... I get light!!! So I am waiting for my epoxy to set and I will finish my job.. I wish I had tested the LED before... I will from now on... live and learn.. at least I know I did not make any mistakes in my wiring, I did have my polarity correct... I need to buy a different epoxy... I will not say what I am using... but the curing time is very long...
Thanks for the micropuck supply location... I had seen them used in other mods and wanted to try them out, but did not know where to get them.