What is the most reliable AAA keychain light?

[archimedes]

I asked google what factors are used to define reliability of LED lights:

LED Systems Reliability

"Failure of electrolytic or film capacitors is a leading cause of driver failure"

types of reliability failures:

from this info it seems potting is not a primary variable to reliability....

For some reason, that link doesn't work for me at the moment, but I note the chart refers to "luminaire" which usually implies a fixed lighting assembly.

If so, physical protection via potted electronics might be less relevant in many or most installations, as compared with flashlights.

 

[seanflash]

Wow. Thanks for all of this great info. I know clickies aren't preferred over twisties in general for reliability but can anyone give any feedback in the stainless version of the Lumintop Ant? Seems to fit my requirements and I believe it may have a magnetic tail option that can be swapped in although I only see that magnet offered in black.

 

[jon_slider]

Lumintop Ant?

here is a reviewer I like
it says:
"the modes must be cycled to reach off"

that is pretty, not "normal"

it means turning the light off requires multiple clicks, and not always the same number, depending which level Im on.. I would pass on that UI

a somewhat similar form factor is in the UltraTac K18, if you want to try a similar looking sideswitch light

it turns on and off with a long press hold. (which I think is better than the Ant UI)
It has Memory (some like that, I dont)

as far as what metal you choose
aluminium is the lowest weight
titanium is inbetween
stainless, brass, and copper are the heaviest
none is more reliable, the choice is just personal preference

 

[defloyd77]

With regards to Peak's reliability, I greatly question the reliability of QTC. The Eiger I have could never find any level of tightness that didn't cause it to flicker wildly. It greatly undermines Peak's legendary design's reputation for reliability IMO.

 

[jabe1]

With regards to Peak's reliability, I greatly question the reliability of QTC. The Eiger I have could never find any level of tightness that didn't cause it to flicker wildly. It greatly undermines Peak's legendary design's reputation for reliability IMO.

They just revert to single mode if the QTC deteriorates.

 

[archimedes]

Most of my Peak are the older pre-QTC versions.

My understanding is that you can still order the fixed-output versions.

I have a few of those where I've simply put in a small bit of the QTC material "loose" and that works reasonably well, although it does break down faster and will eventually need replacement (as with that in the more protected "pill" mechanism)

Flickering with QTC may commonly be due to a tiny "crumb" of material lodged somewhere in the electrical contact path

 

[JimIslander]

I love my Tain Aurora, but probably most reliable is the Olight I3T EOS.

 

[LeanBurn]

With the many posts on the ultimate cockroach outlast the apocalypse, watch me beat the living cr@p out of this torture tests, so sad its out of production...I thought the Fenix E01 would at least be in the running here. I have not seen a single thread on the Olight I3T compared to or beat likewise, yet there are more than one extolling its virtues. :thinking:

 

[jon_slider]

This Sofirn C01 is NOT potted and survived all the housing abuse:


The Sofirn C01 is basically a Fenix E01 with a High CRI upgrade. (available both potted and unpotted)

Mcgizmo Sapphire, Fenix E01, Sofirn C01, Peak Eiger, Olight i3E, differ in whether or not the light is available in High CRI, and whether the host is available in some other metal besides anodized Aluminium, such as unanodised aluminium, Copper, Brass, or Titanium

Of the lights named in this post, Peak offers the most choices of beam profile, LED, and host material. And they are the only one that has a fully captive pocket clip option

Peak is also the only one with a QTC option. (qtc however is reliably unreliable, there are multiple posts about flicker, and that use words like finicky when speaking of the qtc in Peak Eiger)

The Olight i3E has the distinction of being the smallest (and brightest) of the single mode AAA lights named in this post.

 

[archimedes]

.... The Olight i3E has the distinction of being the smallest (and brightest) of the single mode AAA lights named in this post....

Wow, thanks for the photo ! That i3E is tiny. Could you post one with that light next to the AAA cell itself ?

 

[bykfixer]

My 30+ year old Maglite solitaire might be considered reliable by now.
The LED version turns 10 next year.

 

[jon_slider]

Very consistent output. You will get almost 1.5hrs with an Energizer Lithium.

 

[archimedes]

Thanks Jon, much appreciated

 

[LogansRun]

I've had two AAA maratacs fail on me so I would not say they are entirely reliable. They've never been dropped and they were mostly either sitting on my counter or on my keychain when they were in my edc rotation. I still have one AAA maratac but it's no longer in my rotation.

On the other hand, my SF TItan Plus is still going strong so that is my vote.

 

[jon_slider]

Thanks Jon, much appreciated

glad if it helps

I've had two AAA maratacs fail on me

sorry to hear that, failed in what way?

Ive had 8 aaa Maratacs, and they all work. The only time they had an issue (flicker and mode skipping), was when I overlubricated. Wiping out the excess lube, solved the issue.

hope that helps you fix your lights

 

[revscott]

I've had the Fenix E05 on my keychain for about 6 years. The lens is all scratched up, and the anodizing is worn some, but the light hasn't quit yet. Sorry no clicky switch or strobe modes.

 

[LogansRun]

sorry to hear that, failed in what way?

Ive had 8 aaa Maratacs, and they all work. The only time they had an issue (flicker and mode skipping), was when I overlubricated. Wiping out the excess lube, solved the issue.

hope that helps you fix your lights

Both just stopped working. I tried cleaning / relubing the threads, cleaning the contacts and using different, new AAA eneloops. I even tried a fresh AAA alkaline. Light didn't come on at all. A friend of mine also told me the AAA maratac I gave him also stopped working. Maybe I got a bad batch.

 

[jon_slider]

Both just stopped working. I tried cleaning / relubing the threads, cleaning the contacts and using different, new AAA eneloops. I even tried a fresh AAA alkaline. Light didn't come on at all. A friend of mine also told me the AAA maratac I gave him also stopped working. Maybe I got a bad batch.

or maybe the pill worked itself deeper into the head, from the action of twisting on and off, and now the body tube does not quite reach the pill..

the solution is to unscrew the pill half a turn..

here was another case of that type of issue (use the link to see some photos):

Having trouble with my Jetusolis.
…
it is not functioning at all. I've tried running it on an Eneloop, a fresh alkaline, and a fresh lithium battery… did it perish?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...ur-beamshots&p=5440621&viewfull=1#post5440621

1. IF the pill got turned in too tight (can happen from normal loading and unloading batteries, and from tightening the head for normal operation and mode changes)

UnScrew the pill, 1/2 turn, and check if the light works after that. Unscrewing brings the contact ring closer to the end of the body tube, making it easier for it to make contact.

Success! Thanks, Jon! I was just about to give up.

 

[showly]

fenix e-05 , and astrolux a-01 ( overdrive with 10440 lifepo4 @3.6 v ) .. fenix e-05 is working without any issue for last 6 years or so.. astrolux is working for last 3 years .

 

[this_is_nascar]

fenix e-05 , and astrolux a-01 ( overdrive with 10440 lifepo4 @3.6 v ) .. fenix e-05 is working without any issue for last 6 years or so.. astrolux is working for last 3 years .

I too have been EDCing the E05 fir as long as I owned it. I've since switched to a c01 and C01S from Sofirn. Really enjoying them.