which 123 powered LED?

[pedalinbob]

ok, i know this has been asked before, and i have been watching the board for a while.

i have, until now, been resistant to getting a 123 powered light. i didnt like the expense of the bats and generally short runtimes.
however, i like the compactness and long runtimes of the new generation of LED's.

soooo...which to get? i am considering an E2E/KL1, streamlight TL-2, or ?. these will both have 4-5 hrs of bright runtime...yet i am leaning toward the streamlight because it only costs about $60.

my only concern is some have said that the TL-2 has a pretty narrow beam: i tend to like a "wide spot" or "narrow flood", with some useful surround. i have no use for tiny beams, and it is hard to tell if i will like it based upon the nearly useless wall shots everyone favors.

as an aside, i was calculating cost of bats vs runtime, and 123's really arent that bad: if the KL1 runs for 4 hours, then you are geting 2hrs/bat. each bat costs just over $1, so the cost per hour is ~50 cents. not bad, really.

any suggestions for a good 123 powered LS light?

Bob

 

[this_is_nascar]

Either the KL4+E1E combo or the L4. If that doesn't interest you, than an ARC-LSHP.

 

[JohnK]

My TL-2 (and TL-3) have adjustable focus. They do give a nice flood, not as wide as a SL 4AA7LED, but still good. The LEDs do give a LOT of spill light regardless of focus. Incandescents do not in most models give that nice spill.

 

[Kiessling]

get the L4 AND the Arc, you NEED them ...
bernhard

 

[kakster]

If you're not afraid of weilding a soldering iron, build your own McLux. Very flexible little light, the bezel ring can be easily unscrewed to allow quick changes of optics.

 

[pedalinbob]

ooohhhh...McLux...fine looking light.

forgot about that one!

im not great with a soldering iron, but...i think i could still make it work. is it best to use a micropuck?

edit: yikes! it would cost me ~$150 to build a mclux! $100 just for the head and powerpack, $20 for a good luxeon, then add a converter board...ouch.

might have to be a little more...um...cheap, on this one.

Bob

 

[kakster]

I have a BB500 with mine. The head is a solid hunk o' metal, its a great heatsink. Ive never seen a micropuck in the flesh, so i dont know what size it is, but Dat2zip sells a range of convertor boards that allows you to tailor the runtime/brightness to your own liking. For example, if you want the ultimate in runtime, get a wizard 330MAh convertor, this will let you run the Head on a 3x123 tailpack for absolutely ages. If you want ultimate brightness in the smallest package, then the BB750 with a 1x123 tailpack is the one for you.

 

[Lebkuecher]

I would consider a Arc LSH-P with a twisty. Very-Very small and it will stand on end.

 

[mahoney]

For $58 you could get an ARC LS second. There is an element of uncertainty involved as to which model you'd get, but both the LSL and LSH are good lights. The LSL is a bit more flood-like.

 

[RY3]

[ QUOTE ]
pedalinbob said:
...i have, until now, been resistant to getting a 123 powered light. i didnt like the expense of the bats and generally short runtimes...

[/ QUOTE ]

You may consider get one that accepts rechargeable battery (Pila / Copia) if long term battery cost is a concern.