Which batteries for my A2 and M3 CB?

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Wiliss

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May 28, 2009
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Ok You might have seen my other thread about which flashlights to get.

Now I have the lights, which batteries should I get?

I have done some reading on here and it seems like there is a lot of lingo etc. and I'd probably just like someone to tell me what the best option is and ill go out and buy it. Or even better buy it online.

I know the A2 uses 2 x 123A and the M3 uses 3 x 123A.

Rechargeable would be great

and I would probably even like some non-rechargeable spares to keep nearby.
 
A great setup for that M3 would be to get a bi-pin bulb adapter for it, get some 1166 or 1331 bulbs and then run it on 3x of AW's IMR 16340's. Runtime will be short but the output will be awesome. Although the IMR 16340's look like they don't have as much capacity as the RCR123's they actually hold up a lot better under load and hold voltage better than CR123A primaries do. They're really a neat little battery.

Since SureFire's won't take 18mm cells unless you bore them out the only other battery you can run is 2x 17500 or 2x AA. The AA's won't have good voltage for incans so that doesn't make much sense to me. 17500's are great with LED's but I don't really know of a incan bulb that is particularly impressive at 8.4v that also draws 2 amps or less. Lumens Factory makes some M series bulbs that will work on 2x 17500's with stated runtimes of 20 minutes to half an hour. That's pretty close to what those bi-pins will do for all practical purposes but the bi-pins will have tons of output.
 
For the M3 you're pretty much stuk with either 2x17500 li-ion or 3xCR123 primary cells with the MN10, HO-M3, or EO-M3 bulbs.

For the A2, the buck regulator on the incan side will handle the input voltage from 2x3.7V cells, however, the LED side is simply on a resistor, and will require modification to be compatible with the higher voltage. Or you can take an even more serious hit on runtime and use a pair of 3.0V rechargeable cells (probably LiFeP04, ouch)...

I think if everyone who participated in your first thread knew that this would be your second thread, the recommendations would have been a bit different (at least I HOPE that's the case)... 18mm cell platforms should have been stressed given that you had indicated an interest in a rechargeable option. oh well...
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GreyShark,

Did FM release his bi-pin tower for the Z46? You are mentioning using bi-pin bulbs in there....

-Eric
 
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Well i'm not fussed getting disposables. I can just buy some in bulk. What and where should I get them?
 
For the M3 definitely get the 17500s, they are a really decent rechargeable option that is directly reverse compatible with CR123s without swapping the bulb. While maybe not the best option in this size class, there's nothing specifically wrong with them either, (well, accept that they will not safely run an MN11).

A Pila IBC and 4 AW brand protected 17500s should keep your M3 running for a few years.

The A2 will likely be best served with primaries. Use Panasonic or one of the many USA made Panasonic re-badges. Duracell, SureFire, Streamlight, BatteryStation, (there are more but I can't recall all of them atm)... Do some comparisons one who can get you a decent batch for a reasonable price. (box of 50 should get you going for awhile)... Don't be sucked in by too-good-to-be-true eBay pricing on name brand cells, they are often counterfeits with far less capacity and performance and a higher risk of explosion.
 
GreyShark,

Did FM release his bi-pin tower for the Z46? You are mentioning using bi-pin bulbs in there....

-Eric


I don't know about that. I have seen an M3 on the marketplace that was said to have had the reflector bored for bi-pin bulbs. I would assume it was being used with the FM bi-pin tower. I own one but I was using it in a KT2 which I sold a while back when I built my first hotwire Mag. I've been waffling on the M3 because I already have the D26 Sunlight and while I'd like a reflector larger than that but smaller than my Mag I haven't quite convinced myself the difference is worth the upgrade yet. I've done a little drilling and filing to make things fit before. Maybe I'll find a used M3 give it a go.

I was looking at one of the 2x 18500 Leef bodies with the M head but I'd probably end up using a WA1111 in it. Even though the IMR 18500 has twice the capacity of the IMR 16340 the WA1111 draws twice as much current as the WA1166 so it's basically a wash. May as well go with the SureFire body. A 1274 could be an interesting alternative though.
 
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I don't know about that. I have seen an M3 on the marketplace that was said to have had the reflector bored for bi-pin bulbs. I would assume it was being used with the FM bi-pin tower. ....

The M3 head (the Z46) uses a shorter tower base than the full size SF turbo-heads (like the millennium turbo-head found on the M3T, M4, M6 and KT4 kit, and turbo-head included in the KT1/KT2).

-Eric
 
Judging by the pictures of the MN11 and the MN15 it seems to me that the length could be adjusted with a little spring work and/or taking a cutoff wheel to the tower. If you have the FM tower and the M3 w/ Z46 handy would you mind checking to see if the base of the socket is bottoming out for me?
 
I don't have a Z46 yet but will sometime in a few days. (I ordered one last week to use on my seraph system).

I do have an IMR-M3 (short tower) and plenty of full length MN style bulbs like the MN20, MN21, IMR-M3T and an FM bi-pin module. I'm pretty confident that there isn't any way to shim a long-MN tower module into a Z46, the length difference is substantial. I will undoubtedly have a look though when the Z46 arrives.
 
Well i'm not fussed getting disposables. I can just buy some in bulk. What and where should I get them?

Whatever you do, don't buy cheap, Made in China, primary cells. Every now & then, they tend to explode inside flashlights. Cells made in America have better Q.C.

Best solution is to buy in bulk, from reputable online stores.

A few good places to check out:

Lighthound.com
BrightGuy.com
OpticsHQ.com

Surefire cells are quite good. I've also have good success with Streamlight cells, Energizer cells, and Duracell. All are Made in the USA and are excellent primary CR123 cells.

(Ironically, the best rechargeable cells are AW brand. And those are Made in China. But AW makes sure his cells are reliable as Hell).
 

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