Which Haiku ?

[ridnovir]

Hello,

I am trying to decide on my first McGizmo.
I have narrowed it down to Haiku model.
It is sort of hard to decipher all of the info on different sticky threads.
I am mainly interested in the following Haiku 123 v Haiku AA
As far as I understand I can get
Haiku 123 in XPG or XML
Haiku AA in Hi CRI, XPG or XML
What are the outputs for all of these emitters if I were to use lithium batteries.
Is there a thread somewhere comparing beam shots for 123 v AA
will 123 head ran with AA body?
which emitter/battery is the brightest?
Can someone post side by side pics?
Which battery type and emitter would you recommend?
I like the looks of 123 but leaning towards AA for practicality and trying to decide Hi CRI (warry a bit with output levels and low to mid closeness) v XPG or XML
Any info, opinions, preferences, side by side pics and beam shots would be immensely helpful.

 

[yoyoman]

Don posted a chart explaining the different options available today and this may help you. His comments are very interesting, too. Here is the link (see the last post for the chart): http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...mo-Available-Lights-Pricing-and-Ordering-Info

I have an Haiku 3S XM-L and an AA Haiku hi cri (119v). The Haiku 3S XM-L has a wonderful floody beam that is very useful - a great edc light. And it has punch on High. The AA Haiku hi cri also has a wonderful beam, not quite as floody. I'm running it on an Energizer Lithium primary and it is also a great light.

Bright is a confusing term. Lumen or candle power.

The 6V engine will have the most output. The output will be floody in a mule and focused for throw in a Makai.

Now for some pics of my bead blasted Haikus:

 

[ridnovir]

Thank you for your post.
from the chart if I choose AA format I can only have AAs or 14500 but not both in a single light?

 

[carrot]

Buying a Haiku is remarkably complicated. Think of it this way, pick one from each category:

LED:
- 119 (hi-CRI)
- XM-L

Light engine:
- "AA" 1.5-3.5V (1xAA NiMH/alkaline, 2xAA NiMH/alkaline, 1x123 primary)
- "3S" 2.8-4.5V (1xAA 14500/rechargeable, 2xAA NiMH/alkaline, 1x123 primary/rechargeable)
- "6V" 4.2-9V (2xAA 14500/rechargeable, 2x123 primary/rechargeable)

Body/battery pak:
- 1xAA
- 2xAA
- 1x123
- 2x123

The LED will determine the flood/throw balance, and also whether you have Hi-CRI. The 119 will be a little more throwier, but lower output, and the XM-L will be a little floodier, but higher output. Pick the 119 if you want a little more distance and the XM-L if you work mostly close-up. Keep in mind that no McGizmo is truly a barn-burner, so if you really want massive throw or even massive flood you'll want a second light to supplement your EDC.

The light engine will determine what combination of batteries you can use and which battery paks are available to you. You can always buy extra light engines or battery paks if you change your mind about how you'd like your Haiku to be configured.

Edit: I just noticed that Don says a Li-ion will work fine with the AA engine, although it will be less efficient.

Hi guys,
I have dragged my feet too long now on introducing this latest converter. I am choosing to call it the AA converter for hopefully obvious and helpful reasons. The converter is designed to function with an input voltage of ~ .8V up to the Vf of the LED or 4.5 V max. Basically this means it will work on one of my lights using either the single AA pak, 2xAA pak or the 1x123 pak provided the right battery is used. The primary goal was for it to function on any flavor of single AA battery one might have on hand; alkaline, nickel-MH, lithium or what have you. A CR123 primary is fine. A Li-Ion will work but any voltage over the Vf of the LED will be clipped and wasted as heat.

 

[ridnovir]

THX for very helpful post and from fellow NewYorker :twothumbs

just a little clarification please

what is the difference between 119 v 119v (Hi CRI LED)?



so 3S engine is the only one which will take single 14500?
or "3S" 2.8-4.5V (1xAA 14500/rechargeable" means 14500/ and NiMH rechargeable like Eneloop?

 

[McGizmo]

Hi ridnovir,
I want to clarify that I am not using the XP-G LED in my offerings these days. There is nothing wrong with the XP-G and I have read some good stuff about the most recent versions of them but my time and pocket book is limited and thus so are my offerings. When the XM-L came out, I switched to it over the XP-G due to its superior efficiency and lumens. The smaller die of the Nichia 119 allows it to be better collimated with a reflector and thus improve its throw relative to a larger die but since it does not produce as many lumens as the XM-L it doesn't necessarily exceed the reach of the XM-L. What I don't see mentioned is the consideration of a tighter beam having less back splash which is sometimes an issue and independent of throw in the classic sense. An example would be needing to illuminate the interior of a small hole or recess where you want the light to enter the hole but not bounce of its perimeter and overload your vision.

You mention your interest in the form of the 1xAA pak and I'll add an observation that may bearing on your selection process. I have been carrying a SunDrop XM-L 1x123 for a couple years now as my EDC and recently gave it to my wife when I put her on a plane since she had forgotten to bring her own light. I always carry that light clipped to the waist of my shorts and when I got home I realized I needed to replace it when i went to grab it and it was gone. I decided to build a SunDrop with the AA pak instead of the 1x123 pak because it would have a lower profile on my waist and be less likely to get in the way of my arm or things I might be carrying under my arm like my waveski. For my EDC and since I was used to the output of the XM-L on the 3S converter I decided to use the 3V 3S converter instead of the AA converter and this dictated the use of a 14500 AW protected cell which I have on hand. I loose the versatility of using any AA cell in this light but I am not traveling with this light so it's not a big deal. I always have a freshly charged 14500 available if needed. If you prefer the form of the AA pak and have no problem using 14500 Li-Ion cells this might also work for you.

Since the chart I just put up was mentioned and this thread is an open discussion I want to also mention a combination that is now viable and may have been overlooked. The 119V Nichia can handle the full output current available from the 6V converter and coupled with the Makai you have a light that boosts a nice collimated beam of good quality light. In the past with the 119, going to the 6V 2x123 platform was only about increasing runtimes and not increasing lumen output.

 

[ridnovir]

Thanks for the info Don :twothumbs

 

[DTF]

Just to try and make it more difficult, like Don, my EDC is now a Sundrop. Used to be a 3V Haiku XML but found that for most tasks that I needed the light for, the perfect beam of the Sundrop just works much better. With the Haiku, or any other light with a reflector, there's a variation in intensity of the beam. That variation makes it harder to find things on the ground (usually dog poo) but also for walking in the dark. The perfect beam of the Sundrop makes seeing hazards much easier. Certainly, not as much output as the Haiku, but I find the 3B Sundrop to be just enough for most any common task. When there is a need for a bigger light, I go with the Makai.

Also, in your considerings, don't forget to get the 1/4"-20 threaded clip and a McGizmo coiled tether.

 

[archimedes]

I, too, prefer the SunDrop for EDC .... Preferences will vary, of course, depending on your specific needs and usage.