Which LF bulb for E2E?

[tsl]

I'm looking to increase the output of my E2E and also go the rechargeable route and maintain a fairly decent runtime (i.e., no 10 minute runtimes). According to MD's guide, I have the following LF options:

1 x 17670:
LF EO-E1R: 4.5W, 76 - 49 lumen in 69 minutes

2 x RCR 123:
LF HO-E2R: 5W, 90 - 52 lumen in 47 minutes
LF EO-E2R: 6W, 117 - 67 lumen in 38 minutes

Not sure if the above are "out the front" lumens or not. The LF site lists the EO-E1R at 90 lumens, the HO-E2R at 110 lumens, and the EO-E2R at 150 lumens. I've read that we need to decrease these by 1/3 to approximate SF lumens.

Can anyone tell me how noticeable a difference there is between these three LF bulbs? I'm particularly interested in the HO-E2R versus the EO-E2R, but if anyone has experience with all three, I'd appreciate it.

If my research is correct, the E2R bulbs are brighter than the SF MN03. Is the E1R in this configuration brighter too?

 

[divine]

People say that Lumensfactory lumens * 0.66 is pretty close to Surefire lumens.

I like the EO-E2R in mine, it's very nice.

 

[Seiko]

Also make sure that your e2e will fit a 17670. Some will some need to be bored out.

 

[mdocod]

I would suggest using one of the 2xRCR123 configurations and using a pair of AWs IMR16340 cells driving either the HO or EO E2R. The IMR16340s will give you a flatter discharge behavior that will result in a better overall performance through the discharge. The actual capacity of the IMR cells isn't much different than the true capacity of any RCR123 LiCo cell.

Converting to "SF" lumens is difficult because most of the SF incans are running CR123s direct driving a bulb, which has a different discharge behavior than li-ion. The best way to get a rough estimate of SF lumens based on reading the compatibility chart would be to average the high and low numbers in the estimates. So the EO-E2R would be about 90 surefire lumens at my best guess.

 

[tsl]

Also make sure that your e2e will fit a 17670. Some will some need to be bored out.

I have two older twisty models - one with the flat front and the other scalloped. From what I've read and seen, I think a 17670 will fit as I don't see any noticeable neck-down in the body near the tailcap. Is there any way to check other than actually buying a 17670?

I would suggest using one of the 2xRCR123 configurations and using a pair of AWs IMR16340 cells driving either the HO or EO E2R. The IMR16340s will give you a flatter discharge behavior that will result in a better overall performance through the discharge. The actual capacity of the IMR cells isn't much different than the true capacity of any RCR123 LiCo cell.

Converting to "SF" lumens is difficult because most of the SF incans are running CR123s direct driving a bulb, which has a different discharge behavior than li-ion. The best way to get a rough estimate of SF lumens based on reading the compatibility chart would be to average the high and low numbers in the estimates. So the EO-E2R would be about 90 surefire lumens at my best guess.

Thanks Eric. I like the idea of a flatter discharge and better overall performance.

I'm still up in the air then over whether to go the HO-E2R or EO-E2R route. Do I gain any noticeable difference with the EO-E2R at the expense of a 20% better runtime on the HO-E2R? I think not, but maybe someone who has tried both can chime in.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I'm looking to increase the output of my E2E and also go the rechargeable route and maintain a fairly decent runtime (i.e., no 10 minute runtimes). According to MD's guide, I have the following LF options:

1 x 17670:
LF EO-E1R: 4.5W, 76 - 49 lumen in 69 minutes

2 x RCR 123:
LF HO-E2R: 5W, 90 - 52 lumen in 47 minutes
LF EO-E2R: 6W, 117 - 67 lumen in 38 minutes

Not sure if the above are "out the front" lumens or not. The LF site lists the EO-E1R at 90 lumens, the HO-E2R at 110 lumens, and the EO-E2R at 150 lumens. I've read that we need to decrease these by 1/3 to approximate SF lumens.

Can anyone tell me how noticeable a difference there is between these three LF bulbs? I'm particularly interested in the HO-E2R versus the EO-E2R, but if anyone has experience with all three, I'd appreciate it.

If my research is correct, the E2R bulbs are brighter than the SF MN03. Is the E1R in this configuration brighter too?

The EO-E2R on 2xIMR gives the best compromise of power VS runtime.

Although if you want longer runtimes for general tasks, you might want to try the HO-E1R on a single 17670. This will deliver a very flat discharge curve. It is my favorite incandescent setup for the outdoors.

 

[ampdude]

I also think the EO-E2R is the way to go. Last time I checked with a multimeter, it only draws 800ma anyways, which is less than the MN03, and it's much brighter. Of course, I have use for the Surefire lamp as well. But for EDC I choose the EO-E2R.

If you're really concerned about runtime, you can do like I do and keep some spare batteries in your glove box. I ran mine on a Vital Gear 3 body when I had P17500's, and I have a couple of extenders, for when I run the EO-E2R in a two cell E2e body with a couple of IMR16340's, in case I'm out in the middle of nowhere and want more runtime than two IMR16340's can provide. In that case I put the extender on and run it off of three Surefire CR123A's.

 

[tsl]

Looks like I have several votes for the EO-E2R. Are there any problems with heat from the lamp and the small reflector/head of the E2E?

Is the output of the EO-E2R noticeably brighter than that of the HO-E2R? I have not been able to find any beamshots of the two.

 

[ampdude]

Looks like I have several votes for the EO-E2R. Are there any problems with heat from the lamp and the small reflector/head of the E2E?

Is the output of the EO-E2R noticeably brighter than that of the HO-E2R? I have not been able to find any beamshots of the two.

You know, I've never owned an HO-E2R, but I have had the EO-E1R in the past and it is brighter than the MN03 as well. The HO-E2R should be somewhere in between the EO-E1R and EO-E2R in brightness. I'm sure the EO-E2R is noticeably brighter than the HO-E2R through the majority of its runtime.

I haven't had any heat problems.

 

[rjr104]

This isn't the LF route, but the (5Th Run) E2e Bi-Pin socket by FM with either the streamlight TL-3 or Strion bulb (depending on you battery preference) is a nice setup for your e2e. Somthing to consider. Probably a bit less bright, but so much less expensive once you have the socket.
Good luck,
RJ

 

[ampdude]

This isn't the LF route, but the (5Th Run) E2e Bi-Pin socket by FM with either the streamlight TL-3 or Strion bulb (depending on you battery preference) is a nice setup for your e2e. Somthing to consider. Probably a bit less bright, but so much less expensive once you have the socket.
Good luck,
RJ

I've been down that route and didn't like it. The TL-3 setup is just okay, a little yellow, but okay. The Strion bulb really sucks in the E2e, it's way too dim. It's a better setup for the A2 Aviator, since there is no choice but to run a lower voltage bulb and the voltage regulator overdrives it a little. Still I think the LF HO-A2 is better in that respect as well.

The EO-E2R bulbs are not that expensive and are brighter. And no messing around with centering the bulb for best focus, or worries about the bulb coming out of the socket. And nicer, higher color temperature. All the TL-3 bulbs I've used are too yellow for my taste, even when driven on lithium ions. And the brightness was not what it should have been.

 

[tsl]

You know, I've never owned an HO-E2R, but I have had the EO-E1R in the past and it is brighter than the MN03 as well. The HO-E2R should be somewhere in between the EO-E1R and EO-E2R in brightness. I'm sure the EO-E2R is noticeably brighter than the HO-E2R through the majority of its runtime.

I haven't had any heat problems.

Thanks for the info. How long have you been using the EO-E2R? Do you use it for long periods of time or short bursts?

This isn't the LF route, but the (5Th Run) E2e Bi-Pin socket by FM with either the streamlight TL-3 or Strion bulb (depending on you battery preference) is a nice setup for your e2e. Somthing to consider. Probably a bit less bright, but so much less expensive once you have the socket.
Good luck,
RJ

Thanks RJ, but I'd rather stick with a LF bulb for some of the reasons ampdude provided.

 

[ampdude]

Thanks for the info. How long have you been using the EO-E2R? Do you use it for long periods of time or short bursts?

A little bit of both. I've had times where I've run the EO-E2R for 15-30 minutes continuous or more. It warmed up my light fairly well, but not to the point of it getting too hot to hold. It was not a problem at all.

However, if you turn on the light and leave it set on a table or something, it may get fairly hot.

Holding the light in your hand regulates the temperature, your hand acts kind of like a radiator. If I had to guess, I would say it probably puts out slightly more heat than the MN03.

 

[buickid]

I love the EO-E2R, heat hasn't been a problem for me. I don't burn for a long time, but 5 minutes or so shouldn't be a problem. Its a great lamp for a great light.

 

[1dash1]

If you're really concerned about runtimes, try the Fivemega 3E body and run whatever lamp you choose with 2xAW18500's.

I'm running my Gossamer with this setup and the AW cells have no trouble keeping up. (Although, 6 minutes is about the most I run it on max before it starts getting too hot for me to comfortably handle. I suppose I could shift my hand further down the barrerl, but I don't see any point in doing so.)

.
Here's a comparison, Gossamer (KL4 head on FM body) vs. E2E.



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The E2E is easy to pack, but my hand tends to swallow it up.



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The FM 2x18500 tube makes the Gossamer much easier to grasp. I especially like the feel of the two flat sides.





BTW, I've got the HO-E2A, EO-E2R, and IMR-E2 lamp assemblies. Without a diffuser, the E2A works fine for me. With an F04 beam shaper, the E2R and IMR work better. Heat dissipation is no problem with the E2A and E2R. I'm not sure about the IMR, I haven't run it long enough to notice.

EDIT: I just ran the IMR with the FM 2x18500 setup. After about 5 minutes, it was getting too hot for me to handle. So, it gets hot a little bit faster than the Gossamer on high.

.

 

[ampdude]

I like the idea of Fivemega's 3E body. Believe me, I've wanted an E3e for as long as I can remember. My two main problems with it, is that the tailcap appears to be part of the body. What happens when it goes bad? And I really like using Z52's and Z57's (latest revision). Also, there's no pocketclip. A bezel down one would be preferable to me.

 

[1dash1]

The disadvantage of the integral tailswitch is as you've described. The advantage is that it keeps the tube length shorter.

No clip. I wouldn't want one on a tube of this size. Personally, I would have liked a lanyard hole or ring. Since none was provided, you can see that I attached a cheap (but durable) plastic tie-down to the tube. It works very well.

 

[ampdude]

The disadvantage of the integral tailswitch is as you've described. The advantage is that it keeps the tube length shorter.

No clip. I wouldn't want one on a tube of this size, since it's not what I would call "pocketable".

I keep a Vital Gear 3 in my front left pocket with an EO-E2R.

It's my main EDC light, so I just don't buy it when people say that an E3e would be too big for pocket carry.

 

[1dash1]

EDIT: Off-topic comment deleted.

 

[tsl]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll be sticking with the E2E body as it is a perfect size for me.

So, from the posts, it seems like the EO-E2R is very popular. Does anyone use the HO-E2R?