Which MCE / P7 light?

[CampingLED]

Posted a question under BessyBenny's XII part thread, but it seems like it will just get lost in the volumes of info. Therefore this new thread.

I am looking for a reasonable MC-E or P7 (SST-50 in price range?) light to buy for my son in the $40 price range and would appreciated some suggestions. From what I have read it seems like some of the P7s with "good" drivers are only C-bin. The D-bins on DX does not have good customer reviews. Two modes (H-L) will be nice, but not essential.

Tks

 

[waddup]

the cheapest worthwhile p7/mc-e ive seen is the shining beam mg pli, i own one, its great.

$70,

seems like all the $40 lights fail quickly.

 

[apontes]

+1 on the MGs.

PLI and RX-1 are hard to beat for the price. Another option could be the iTP A6 Polestar.

Forget the < $50 multi-dies. You'll only get disappointed.

 

[CampingLED]

This is unfair.:mecry: Looked @ some of the options that you mentioned and also some CPF reviews. Talking about scope creeping and I may end up buying a ThruNite Catapult SST-50. Need to draw the line on the budget issue because it may snowball on me. This is for my son who is 15yrs old and I would like to stay within my budget. If I spend more on the light my other son may feel left out and then, and then.... :paypal: for two times custom made Maxablasters.:ohgeez: :broke:

PS. Thanks for the valuable feedback anyway. I like your suggestions, but I want to stay within the budget mentioned.

EDIT: Shiningbeam also do not ship to my country, yet?

 

[Yucca Patrol]

Get the MC-E drop-in DX sku# 21037 and put it in a $15 18650 DX host of your choice.

Might be the best bang for the buck.

 

[Fichtenelch]

Get the MC-E drop-in DX sku# 21037 and put it in a $15 18650 DX host of your choice.

Might be the best bang for the buck.

That MC-E Drop-in is not proper anymore...They did some changes on the driver, mine was only pulling 0.4A...After changing to the P7/MC-E driver from shiningbeam it was at 2.3...

So, for 40$ i would suppose to get a DX MTE P7 light or a real MTE light from www.mteccd.com
I bought over 40 of the DX one's and they are pretty reliable. sometimes a loosen pill causes the light to flicker, but thats nothing you can't fix in 5 minutes.

 

[CampingLED]

Get the MC-E drop-in DX sku# 21037 and put it in a $15 18650 DX host of your choice.

Might be the best bang for the buck.

Great option. Pitty that it is only K-bin. Will a D-bin SSC P7 dedicated light not be a better option, even if I have to mod / repair in future. I love to get my fingers into the internals of lights that need it. :naughty:

 

[CampingLED]

That MC-E Drop-in is not proper anymore...They did some changes on the driver, mine was only pulling 0.4A...After changing to the P7/MC-E driver from shiningbeam it was at 2.3...

So, for 40$ i would suppose to get a DX MTE P7 light or a real MTE light from www.mteccd.com
I bought over 40 of the DX one's and they are pretty reliable. sometimes a loosen pill causes the light to flicker, but thats nothing you can't fix in 5 minutes.

Noticed that moviles used a MTE host for his SSR-90 light. They are probably not bad as some people claim.

Is the output on the MTEs quite good and will it outperform most R2s at close to medium range?

 

[Fichtenelch]

Noticed that moviles used a MTE host for his SSR-90 light. They are probably not bad as some people claim.

Is the output on the MTEs quite good and will it outperform most R2s at close to medium range?

Oh yes, it does ;-) The R2 throws farther, since the emitter is bigger and better centered, but for short to medium distance it does really well.

 

[easilyled]

Noticed that moviles used a MTE host for his SSR-90 light. They are probably not bad as some people claim.

Any light is "not so bad" when only used as a host. ie. the existing electronics is completely discarded.

Why don't you ask moviles what he thought of the quality control in that light before he stripped it out to build according to his own standards?

 

[Fichtenelch]

Any light is "not so bad" when only used as a host. ie. the existing electronics is completely discarded.

Why don't you ask moviles what he thought of the quality control in that light before he stripped it out to build according to his own standards?

The MTEs i sold were 2-mode, with a resistor. if you just add a driver and change the switch, you're done.

 

[easilyled]

The MTEs i sold were 2-mode, with a resistor. if you just add a driver and change the switch, you're done.

Not everyone has those skills. I certainly don't.

 

[Fichtenelch]

Not everyone has those skills. I certainly don't.

Thats correct..but basically, these mte p7 lights work fine, the dx one's. and the original ones are even better, got one here, output is much better than the copied ones from dx. 2-mode light from dx for ~34$, original mte for ~40-43 incl shipping, the original mte is a 5-mode...

 

[easilyled]

Thats correct..but basically, these mte p7 lights work fine, the dx one's. and the original ones are even better, got one here, output is much better than the copied ones from dx. 2-mode light from dx for ~34$, original mte for ~40-43 incl shipping, the original mte is a 5-mode...

I'd like to believe you, but even on the reviews on Dx's site, there are quite a few "Cons" mentioned as wells as "Pros".

I had an original 5-mode MTE and although the light worked, the quality control was very poor.

The head was glued onto the body and when I unglued it, I could see why.

The threads were terribly loose.

You get what you pay for.

 

[CampingLED]

If I need to do simple driver changes it will not be a problem. A two stage switch is also sometimes a bonus, since it simplifies the driver. I have spare 7135 based drivers that can be used. If the host is not of acceptable quality it may be a problem.
I may not have spare switches that fit the lights and that may be a problem if the switch need to be changed because of quality or current limitations (2A should be enough, i.e 6 x 7135). I do not expect to get top quality at a budget price especially since a bare SSC P7 emitter is almost the same price as some of the lights.

From the feedback received, is it safe to say that MTE is less of a gamble than Aurora, Trustfire or Ultrafire and that I should focus my shortlist on MTE lights.

 

[CampingLED]

Any light is "not so bad" when only used as a host. ie. the existing electronics is completely discarded.

Why don't you ask moviles what he thought of the quality control in that light before he stripped it out to build according to his own standards?

Tks, PM sent to him and he shortlisted three lights for me. :paypal: for DX 13336 which is a great combo between flood and throw. May mod the driver soon.

Again tks for all your inputs.

 

[Pyranha]

Need some advice too. I'm considering a P7 for nightfishing with a trident. I have allready had couple of romisens rc-n3's attached to the trident underwater but the lightened area was way too small. So I need a light with atleast 45-60 minutes with one 18650 and enough brightness to see thru water surface reflection.

Will any of those cheap P7's do, or do I need a more expensive one?

 

[deeuubee]

I mentioned this in another thread asking basically the same thing.

Good, reliable and cheap.

Why not the scratch-n-dent EDP-71 in the Marketplace,

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=198779

Only a little above your range for a much better light it appears.

 

[kramer5150]

You are not going to find an MCE/P7 light plus cells and charger (of decent quality) for under $40. $40 just gets you a pair of 18650 cells and a reputable charger.

I think the best you can do is a DX-MCE drop in, hosted by an 18650 solarforce. You can do that for ~$50.

 

[CampingLED]

You are not going to find an MCE/P7 light plus cells and charger (of decent quality) for under $40. $40 just gets you a pair of 18650 cells and a reputable charger.

I think the best you can do is a DX-MCE drop in, hosted by an 18650 solarforce. You can do that for ~$50.

:huh2: Nobody said anything about a charger and batteries.