Which Progold Applicator is the best

Carpenter

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
482
Location
Eastern Pennsylvania
Hi All,

I'm looking into purchasing a can/tube/bottle of ProGold. Which applicator is the best value for the money?

Also what do your recommend to keep the threads of Mag tailcaps lubed?

Thanks.
 
I like the pens and they meet 90-95% of my needs. For RF and RCA connectors and any lights that the pens won't reach into I use the liquids (in the tiny tubes) applied with a long hat pin.
 
I use the 100% Deoxit Gold bottle and a foam tip swabs to apply it. After treating my eneloop AAA cells, they tested out at 1.44V hot off the charger, compared to 1.35V prior to being treated.
 
paulr said:
Any idea where to buy this stuff?
I got the liquids from acousticsounds.com:

S G100L-2C CAIG Laboratories ProGold Conditioning Treatment, Squeeze tube, 2 ml. Contact Cleaner $ 5.95

S D100L-2C CAIG Laboratories DeoxIT Power Booster D100L Squeeze Tube, 100% solution, 2 ml Contact Cleaner $ 4.95

I like the 2ml tubes as I may keep one of each sealed up in my kit without worry over it evaporating when not in use.

I got my pens from Rat Shack but I've heard they've been DCed. (The pens may be refilled with the liquid)
 
If you are using it for cleaning metal contacts like battery terminals or charger terminals try some ISO-Heet(Auto section at walmart) and use the foam swabs like coppertrail said. It works great!! It is alot less money also.
Dan
 
Oh man, expensive stuff, and steep shipping charges too. Oh well.
 
It is steep and I agree, the shipping price is outrageous. The amount I bought should last me 3-4 years, maybe longer.

I took Dan's recommendation and picked up some ISO Heet from Walmart. It too does a great job. I was getting 1.40V DMM readings on some Sanyo 2700 mAh cells after going through a conditioning mode. Can't beat the price, just over $1 per bottle :)

Regarding your question about lube for tail cap threads for Mag Lights, use plain old Vaseline on the threads and O rings. I use Nyogel 760 on my non Mag lights.
 
Thanks for all the info. I plan on getting out the Vaseline tonight and trying to make to Walmart today also. (Once the ice from the latest storm melts)
 
coppertrail said:
Regarding your question about lube for tail cap threads for Mag Lights, use plain old Vaseline on the threads and O rings. I use Nyogel 760 on my non Mag lights.

Good intentions, and I see lots of ppl recommending this, but I strongly discourage Vaseline, brother. It is petroleum-based and will melt O-rings.

You want to use "dielectric lube" from any auto parts store. It is actually silicone grease, and is inert.
 
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Quantumstate said:
Good intentions, and I see lots of ppl recommending this, but I strongly discourage Vaseline, brother. It is petroleum-based and will melt O-rings.

You want to use "dielectric lube" from any auto parts store. It is actually silicone grease, and is inert.

The reason you see it often is because that is what Mag recommends for their lights. And those who have done it for years have had no issue. This does not mean you should use petrol based lube on any other light however.
 
Ok,

So even though Mag says you can use Vaseline (and many do without problems), you can also use silicone grease because it's inert. And only use Vaseline on Mag's?? Does Mag use a different material to make their o-rings than everyone else?

As far as ProGold, I think I'm going to start with the ISO Heet from Wal-Mart. If that doesn't do the trick I'm probably going to go with the bottle of ProGold with the brush in it. The pen applicator is my third choice right now.

Thanks everyone for their input (so far).
 
As far as O-ring lube: what you will typically find is that the majority of O-rings are made of "Buna-N" rubber. This is the most cost-effective material by a pretty fair margin, with the happy combination that this material also has good abrasion and wear resistance, and very good resistance to petroleum products.

If you were to go into a random hardware store to purchase O-rings, the chances are extremely good that you'd walk out with Buna-N if you were not given a choice. There's just THAT many Buna-N O-rings in the world.

Buna-N has a weakness, which is ozone. Ozone is present in the atmosphere in minute quantities, and in heavier concentrations around electic motors where it gets formed by the arcing of the brushes. Ozone will attach Buna-N over time and cause it to crack, especially true on O-rings that are under tension (stretched over something). But if they are protected from Ozone, like in a flashlight where they are lubed and covered up, they will be fine.

We prefer Neoprene O-rings, which cost more but have all the same good properties of Buna-N plus they are better with Ozone.

There are a couple types of O-ring material that will be attacked by petroleum (Vaseline etc), but they are specialty O-rings usually only found in very specific applications. Relatively rare and expensive.

Like someone mentioned, Mag specifically recommends Vaseline. That tells me Mag is using Buna-N or maybe Neoprene, as they are both excellently suited for the task AND quite inexpensive.

A silicone-based grease is very inert as someone mentioned, and is not a bad choice either.
 
Apparently the Maglight uses neoprene O-rings, which resist breakdown by solvents.

Silicone grease is an advanced material (as opposed to the hyped products which are often the same thing with a few useless additives, but costing $$$), and is safe for all small grease lube applications. Completely inert, safe to eat, colorless, and non-flammable.

Silicone caulk OTOH has salicylic acid (when it evaporates the silicone cures), which is corrosive to electrical parts. To caulk electrical cases you want to use RTV silicone ("room temperature vulcanizing), which does not use salicylic acid to cure. Again, auto parts store.
 
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Oh yeah, one more thing: silicone grease is not completely inert... it will dissolve: silicone rubber! O-rings made of silicone rubber are available, but again, you won't typically find them in a common use such as a flashlight. They are a high-cost specialty material used for very specific applications where the need for the performance justifies the high cost.
 
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