Why Tanto?

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

BBQ BOY

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
12
I don't understand the blade design of the Tanto. i was given a Camillus knife with a Tanto and I do not understand its function.
 
Its design lends itself to a few advantages. It still has a point so it works in stabbing. The front edge being elongated makes it better for slashing than a more traditionally shaped blade. Also since it gives you two distinct edges you can use the main part of the blade for your every day in and out cutting and leave the front edge for more precision work or when you need something razor sharp.

For instance I usually will freshen up the main part of the blade 3 times before I ever have to worry about the short part loosing its edge on my tantos.
 
Penetration. (Without damaging the tip)

The urge to elaborate on the fun of that word is being resisted. :D
 
They're for opening up a can of beefaroni, ninja style.

Seriously, I think the tanto shape is good for reinforcing the tip of a samurai sword which is optimized for slashing in one direction with the upper ~8" of the blade and actually not stabbing or penetration. I don't know where these chisel type of tanto knives came from, but I would think one of those symmetrical sharp pointy double-edged army or marine knives would be better suited for stabbing someone through their breast plate. That is, if one even had the need for that sort of thing... Personally, I find tantos less than ideal for most of the basic tasks I use pocket knives for. They sure look cool though.
 
Yeah, they tend to be very strong blades, and stand up better to abuse that would likely damage other types of blades. At least IMO that's the case. :shrug:
 
Opinions vary obviously but I tried one very briefly and found that, for most EDC tasks, the blade design isn't particularly useful.

They do look good, but I much prefer modified sheepsfoot, drop point and leaf style blades.
 
For myself I find Tanto blades much better for the cutting tasks I perform as opposed to the traditional blade design.

I do a lot of maintenance work in my workplace and that involved cutting all sorts of materials, including high and low density resi foam, carpet, etc. At times I need to plunge the tip down into several inches of foam with varying layers and densities as well as fibrous and plastic covers and liners. That has destroyed a couple high quality spear point and drop point blades, but hasn't even slowed down a couple various tantos that I now use there. (Although I have a SAK One hand trekker with a forward serrated blade which also seems to work very well for some tasks like shallow cuts.)

I find the nice edge where the blade angle changes up to be a much better and controllable cutting surface when making long (8-10' long 4" deep into carpet bonded double layered closed-cell foam) as opposed to the tip of a traditionally shaped blade.

Now on the other hand, I wouldn't use a tanto blade if I were to go hunting or fishing. Use the right tool for the right job.

In addition, the "american tanto" design has very little to to with true traditional Japanese swords/ Nihonto. It is an extreme and stylized adaptation. Furthermore there are many different varieties of traditional Japanese swords so it's not a valid point to compare a blade to them as a group. The Japanese blade evolved over time ( a period of ~1000+ years) mostly depending upon what sort of armor the current enemy was wearing.
 
Now on the other hand, I wouldn't use a tanto blade if I were to go hunting or fishing. Use the right tool for the right job.

And there is the main point, it really depends on what you are doing with it. One mans EDC is not going to suit anothers dependiing on the job in hand.


They do look good, but I much prefer modified sheepsfoot, drop point and leaf style blades.

Another fan here, For some reason I find myself drawn to the lambsfoot/sheepsfoot/farmers style blades, maybe because here in the UK they are made as slipjoints/penknives.

But like the Tanto blade, others hate the sheepsfoot style blade and can't get on with it.
 
compared with traditional style bad for everything, especially cutting, stabbing, penetration, ...
the only thing it is better, is: break prone
(as it is like a blade, that is already broken) ;)
--> armchair hero gadget
(in lights, that were spikes and similar edges)
:rolleyes:


PS, as has already been mentionned: japanese Tantos (the smaller swords) do feature normal edges in reality
PPS: and who breaks a knife has not understood that kind of tool he/she is using
;)
 
As yellow pointed out (or tried to), the shape of a Tanto blade is very similar to the shape of a blade with a broken tip, which was re-sharpened instead of thrown away. It stands to reason that blades break in that shape because that shape concentrates the shear force within the part of the blade that broke off, meaning that the remaining part was able to effectively distribute the force in a way that prevented further damage. That means a Tanto-style blade is much stronger in situations that would break a traditional blade.
 
I'm wondering why you posted this and a few other threads in EVERY online knife forum.
 
Last edited:
CMN-900 Coleman linerlock with tanto blade, my EDC. On my budget I can't afford collector, custom made knives. I have found the above mentioned knife to be very strong, very fast to open and very durable considering the $5.50 price. I like the Tanto design because it will hold up to a plunge in hard materials without the tip breaking. Got one of these knives with a black finish on the blade as a gift and finally found them in plain finish at Bladematrix.com.
 
I'm wondering why you posted this and a few other threads in EVERY online knife forum.


He didn't double post it here at CPF so I'm not sure why it really matters. My guess to the answer of the question would be, "because he wanted to know" and was looking for as many opinions as he could get.









That's a good point that fyrstormer made about penetration. Tantos are known for their penetration not because they out penetrate a spear point or narrow angle clip point, but because of their ability to penetrate repeatedly without breakage or significant deformation. Once the other styles break, they're at a huge disadvantage for further penetration tasks. Not only does a broken tip shorten the cutting edge but the penetrating leading edge is now blunt. With a Tanto the tip is initially stronger but as it deforms or wears through repeated stabbing theres always a fresh cutting edge just below tip or damaged tip. This effectively acts as a chissle which is still far better than a snapped off blunt.
 
I'm glad I checked out this Forum, and appreciate the technical explanations in support of the Tanto blade. I would like to point out that while I'm sure most of you here work with or collect well made knives, design and stability of the locking mechanism is very important when "plunging" even a Tanto blade. A couple of years ago I purchased a CRKT, Ed Halligan Sampson's K.I.S.S. engineered folding Tanto knife. The Tanto blade is only sharpened on one side and flat on the other, unfortunately the locking mechanism lends itself to unexpectedly closing if the handle is depressed. I find the liner lock of the coleman CMN-900 and similar knives much safer and dependable. Thanks for the useful information.
 
I read from a lot of places that a Tanto blade didn't hold an edge very well. I'm not sure how true but that is the only reason why I didn't buy one.

If it actually does hold an edge then I would feel bad because I would have preferred it's design personally.
 
It's also worth noting that what we are referring to as the tanto point is actually not found on a Japanese tanto, but rather on swords. Traditional tantos generally have a long sweep towards the point.
 
I read from a lot of places that a Tanto blade didn't hold an edge very well. I'm not sure how true but that is the only reason why I didn't buy one.


That's sort of true actually. I have a Recon Tanto and it always gets dull on the sharp bend of the cutting edge near the tip. It's also a bit difficult to sharpen there too. Regardless, it's hard to find much fault with that knife overall. It's my main fixed blade work knife. Not too expensive but rugged.
 
Back
Top