..By the way, why would I have to remove the driver from the scolos? My thought was that I could build a rectifier in a separate box and just connect that to the scolos. Would the driver not work with the current produced by the dynohub?
The drivers are designed to operate from a constant voltage. They feed a constant current into the LEDs. In order to do this, a variable current is drawn from the constant voltage source (the battery).
A dynamo instead delivers a mostly constant current at a widely varying voltage. As the driver tries to pump current into the LEDs, it's input current rises and consequently its input voltage drops. Naturally the driver tries to draw more current from the dynamo, so the driver's input voltage drops further to a point where it's not capable of drawing more than what the dynamo delivers.
On the other hand, if the driver ever reaches the target LED current, it will reduce the input current but then the input voltage increases, so that the driver has to further reduce input current. If the load is little, a dynamo may well deliver 50V or more, so this could burn something up, depending on the architecture of the driver.
While dynamo-powering LED drivers that are made for running from a battery will probably run some current through the LEDs, it is inefficient and risky for the driver circuit. A dedicated dynamo driver circuit is the better way.
What you could however do, is connect a rectifier to the dynamo and a battery to the rectifier output, then attach your existing drivers to the battery. It's not as efficient as a dedicated LED driver, but you get permanent light, even when stopped. Obviously, battery charge management is a bit of an issue, it could happen that you discharge the battery faster than you charge it or vice versa. If you're not careful, this either leaves you without light and a deep discharged battery or with a hot, overcharged battery (so don't try LiIon, it burns on overcharge). If you are using relatively large NiCd or NiMH, they will still last a while.
