Wondering what you would do for Battery for the wife!!!

[RCJay]

Hello all I am new here and been reading for days now. I can't believe how hi-tec rechargable battery and LED torch light have become. I been really looking to buy my first LED light 2 new SolarForce L2 lights for me and the wife. I been reading up on the 18650 battery and know it will need some caring for. But my real question is for my wife's Solarforce L2. Should I get her primary cells or 18650 rechargeable which I am going to use. I have the time and interest to play with this stuff but my wife don't really care. I just want to get her first self defence torch light, but not sure how to power it? Any thought. I just don't want her light to blow up in her car and she gets hurt.........you know what I mean....thx


Jay

 

[mdocod]

Hi RCJay,

Welcome to CPF!

Quality 18650s have a better track record than CR123 primary cells for safety. Provided that I am the one who occasionally pulls the cells and monitors their condition over time and performs the charging, I have no problem at all with the protected 18650 and the IMR16340 that reside in the 2 flashlights that my wife generally carries.

Eric

 

[march.brown]

Hello all I am new here and been reading for days now. I can't believe how hi-tec rechargable battery and LED torch light have become. I been really looking to buy my first LED light 2 new SolarForce L2 lights for me and the wife. I been reading up on the 18650 battery and know it will need some caring for. But my real question is for my wife's Solarforce L2. Should I get her primary cells or 18650 rechargeable which I am going to use. I have the time and interest to play with this stuff but my wife don't really care. I just want to get her first self defence torch light, but not sure how to power it? Any thought. I just don't want her light to blow up in her car and she gets hurt.........you know what I mean....thx Jay

.
I have two Solarforce L2s and a L2i and they are brilliant (pun intended) torches ... The L2i uses three AAA cells but can be easily (eventually) modified to take a single 18650 cell ... My L2i has a single mode drop-in as standard though you can get several other drop-ins from about £9 ... As a single mode using three AAA Eneloops , it is great for a non-technical flashlight person who perhaps might at a later date need to have (her) torch upgraded to a multi-mode 18650 model.

As far as a self-defence weapon (torch) , she would be better off with a pair of running shoes ... If you think that a dainty lady wielding a flashlight is going to stop a drug-crazed robber , then think again ... It's like a big rough wrestler being frightened by a miniature poodle with a shiny collar ... It doesn't work !

By the way , the tactical head is not very kind to the inside of pockets or handbags (purses) ... I have changed one of mine for a smooth ring.
.

 

[mfm]

Go with protected 18650 and a charger that turns off when the charging is complete.

It is easier to just insert one battery (18650) than to fiddle with a weak plastic battery carrier using three cells. A P60 host using 3xAAA is weak and underpowered as well.

 

[csa]

I'm not sure that the statement "quality 18650s have a better track record than CR123 primary cells for safety. " is particularly accurate.

123 primary cells have been in use for a LONG time, so of course there have been reported occurrences of the occasional failure. Just because there may be fewer reports of 18650 cells failing doesn't make them safer.

Get her primary cells because unless you're willing to do the upkeep on the torch, the battery will get run down, the battery charger will get misplaced, and the whole business will be tossed out the window as "not working when I need it."

 

[HarryN]

I agree on recommending good quality, primary CR123s for your wife's flashlight, and frankly for anyone who doesn't go through at least a set of batteries in a light every 2 - 4 weeks.

I gave a light to my brother that can run on 1x 18650 or 2 CR123s, and gave him a set of protected AW 18650s to go with it. We agreed that he would send the cells to me every few months to charge them up, since he doesn't have a charger.

Other than the first week, he hasn't turned the light on, and I can't get him to send the cells to me for charging, even though they most likely need it.

With primary CR123s, you can load them in and just forget about them for years with a light duty user.

 

[alpg88]

imo, get her a light that takes AA batteries, and load it with lithium AA.
10 years shelf life, never heard them explode, no headaches, in emergency you can still use regular AA.

 

[pwatcher]

keep it simple - cr123 primaries, insist on made in U.S.A. though, for best safety record. I like their long shelf life, and good capacity if light is only going to be used infrequently.

 

[Kestrel]

I think a good case could be made for a single cell (either 1x 18650 or 1x CR123). Even pairs of quality CR123's can become mismatched (either by user error or by manufacturing defect), resulting in a safety issue - the worst case being reverse charging with the possibility of cell explosions with the lithium chemistries.

The great part about the current state of flashlight tech is that we can get extremely high outputs from just about any good-quality single cell these days - even 1xAA. :thumbsup:

Edit: Plus the fact that single-cell lights really fit well into smaller hands, esp. female.

 

[march.brown]

Go with protected 18650 and a charger that turns off when the charging is complete.

It is easier to just insert one battery (18650) than to fiddle with a weak plastic battery carrier using three cells. A P60 host using 3xAAA is weak and underpowered as well.

His Wife isn't interested in fiddling with batteries ... That's his job.

Actually you can't go wrong with an iTp A2 ... It has three modes (high , medium and low) and uses a single AA cell ... Great for an EDC even for flashaholics as it is very small.
.

 

[RCJay]

Wow thank you for the info. It seems that the primary cell might be better for the wify then the rechargeable so far. However the run time seems to be lot less with the Cr123a primary compared to the 18650, its like (1 hours vs 3 hours of run time) but I think her light might sit in the center console more then being used.

I also read in the tread that the tactical head is not very kind to hand bags so what you guys do for your women. Get a case or no tactical head at all?

Last, I been shopping and shopping and I down to SolarForce or Ultrafire. They look soooo close, is one better then the other? We were at the mall yesterday and came across a knife store that carried Surefire. She just has good taste I guess after looking at all the light she like the E2D defender priced at $150 . Really that was the light that I want too but if I have to buy a pair of them, man thats going to hurt. So the plan might just be get a pair of cheapys and if she uses them then maybe I'll get E2D. BTW it was my first time having a E2D in my hand, its surely alot smaller then all the picture is see.

 

[Mr Happy]

With primary CR123s, you can load them in and just forget about them for years with a light duty user.

That's not actually entirely true. CR123A cells stored for years without being used have been known to go passive and fail to work when you try to use them.

keep it simple - cr123 primaries, insist on made in U.S.A. though, for best safety record. I like their long shelf life, and good capacity if light is only going to be used infrequently.

"Made in U.S.A." only applies if you are located in the USA (hint to new users -- fill in your location in your profile). If you are located in Europe the good CR123A cells will most likely be made in Europe (any UK or EU residents care to confirm?).

As to Jay's question, I think I would start out with a small AA powered light. The current breed of even single AA lights like the Fenix LD10 are so bright they will blind you if you shine them in your eyes, especially at night. There are few occasions when I would see the need for anything brighter, unless you plan to be lost in the mountains and trying to find your way home.

Add to this that small lights are much easier to carry and have about you at all times.

 

[RCJay]

Is there any difference in SolarForce or Ultrafire L2??? Been reading and I think Solarforce has the edge in quality, is that right? Thx.

 

[Black Rose]

With the Solarforce you also have the added bonus of the threads being Surefire compatible, so your options for expansion, lego, etc. are endless.

 

[vali]

Is there any difference in SolarForce or Ultrafire L2??? Been reading and I think Solarforce has the edge in quality, is that right? Thx.

I dont have any of them but according with the number of issues user reported in this forum the Ultrafire ones are more prone to fail. There are lots of people reporting their ultrafires stopped working after a drop from only a few inches high. I dont remember reading this kind of issues with solarforce products, but since the number of ultrafires sold to user member are, probably, higher you may take those "statistics" with a grain of salt.

 

[ekengle]

I have 3 Solarforce lights and am pretty pleased with all of them. Build quality is very good. One is a regular black L2, the second is a gunmetal L2m, and the third is a L2P.

There are some quirks with each of them. I can attach a belt clip to the regular L2. When I put it on the L2m it is a little loose because the tail cap doesn't tighten enough to lock it in place. On the L2P the tail cap is designed to tighten all the way down until there is no gap between it and the body. When I put the belt clip on it doesn't function properly. The belt clip is mainly used to stop it from rolling off the table.

The switch is great on the L2 and L2m. On the L2P it's recessed and much stiffer to press.

I have removed the sharp bezel and replaced them with the stainless smooth one on the L2 & L2m. I like the lower profile bezel on the L2P.

Two of the lights have 3 mode R2 drop-ins and the third light has a MC-E drop-in. The MC-E light is in a shooting bag where other people won't get ahold of it and damage it by over heating it. All are run on Li-ion's. I plan on gifting one to a friend, when I do he will get a drop-in with the appropriate voltage to run 2 CR123 primaries.

My wife's lights are a Quark AA with 14500 cell and a Quark MiNi 123 with primaries. She uses the MiNi on her keys the most and occasionally the Quark AA. I have told her about the Li-ion cells and she knows not to recharge them or use them in any other device. I maintain all the batteries in the house. She has zero interest in learning about batteries or chargers.

If you don't have any interest in a belt clip then I would recommend the L2m. You can shorten it to take a single CR123 or leave it in full size mode for the 18650s. The belt clip is rather large and sticks out somewhat more than I thought it would. A shortened L2m with a smooth bezel would be good for handbag carry. If it is going to be left in a vehicle for emergencies only then any of them would be fine.

As far as batteries go, I would use the primary CR123 if the light will only be used occasionally. They can be used in other devices more readily in a pinch as well. You don't want your wife telling her friend "my light has batteries that will fit your camera, let me get it." Go ahead, ask me how I know. It may not happen often, but it does happen.

I also have a Surefire 6P and all the parts do interchange just fine. The Surefire is an awesome light, just not at the same price point.

If I had to do it all over again the only thing I would change would be the finish. I would flip them around and get the L2m in black instead of gunmetal. (for use on my AR-15 in short mode to save on bulk.) The L2 would be nicer for me in gunmetal so it's easier to find when it gets dropped in the tall grass.

 

[mdocod]

I'm not sure that the statement "quality 18650s have a better track record than CR123 primary cells for safety. " is particularly accurate.

I believe that the statement is accurate. I stand by it. With one clarification. *protected*

Lets consider for a moment, quality lithium manganese dioxide primary cells in the "large" common formats (CR2, CR123A, CRV3 etc) vs quality lithium cobalt rechargeable cells in common sizing (16340-18650 sizes).

123 primary cells have been in use for a LONG time, so of course there have been reported occurrences of the occasional failure.

From what I can gather, both CR123A and similar cell types, as well as lithium cobalt, have been on the market for about 20 years give or take a couple few.

Just because there may be fewer reports of 18650 cells failing doesn't make them safer.

Polling threads in recent years here at CPF have shown that the use of various li-ion cells has surpassed the use of primary CR123s.

references:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=265458&highlight=poll+battery+type
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=236147&highlight=poll+battery+type
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=218370&highlight=poll+battery+type

With that in mind, if we have more reports of CR123s exploding than various lithium cobalt cells, then we can very reasonably conclude that they are more dangerous given the distribution of cell types amongst the CPF community.

Perhaps more interesting, is that, CPF and Camera enthusiasts will represent the heaviest users of lithium primary cells on the planet, if you take the polling outside of a CPF like environment, most people have never even purchased a CR123 cell, but own multiple devices in their homes with li-ion cells. The prevalence of protected lithium cobalt in the average consumer market far outweighs that of primary lithium cells.

----

I would highly recommend spending some time looking through some of the reports here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=107

What we find, is that, most of the CR123A explosions are Chinese cells, with a handful of USA/Japan made cells exploding as well. In most cases of CR123 explosion, there is absolutely no user error, they were just using a flashlight as they would expect to be able to and all of the sudden BAM. We also find plenty of lithium cobalt fires/explosions/venting/heating stories as well, but there is a very common trend. More often than not, the li-ion stories can be tracked down to a blatant or semi-blatant user error. Many of the li-ion explosions seem to be linked to unprotected cells exposed to shorts or over-charge conditions, or physically damaged cells.


Eric

 

[Kestrel]

Good points.

A complicating factor might be that we may have a greater turnover of CR123's compared to LiIons. For example, Flashaholic #1 might use 50 CR123's in 5 years, while Flashaholic #2 might use 2-4 LiIons in the same timeframe. Even if the failure rate per cell is comparable (BTW I am only making this assumption for this comparison only), what is the likelihood that F#1 will encounter a defective cell compared to F#2?

Anyway, just something to think about, I don't really have a solid opinion on this as I don't have enough hands-on experience to cover both usage scenarios. However, once my couple sets of (top-quality) LiIon rechargeables are working well for me, I'm not particularly inclined to change things - I am counting on my LiIons to age in a predictable manner, retiring them after 4 years or so perhaps. However, if I was using CR123's, I might not really know how much I can depend on each new cell set that I begin using.

Edit: What I do have a strong opinion on, though:

I am trying to transition from multi-celled lights to single celled lights - as an example, consider the scenario of replacing 2 CR123's (or 2 RCR123's) with a single 17670 or 18650. One of the biggest issues drops out right there - voltage mismatches/cell imbalances, with the subsequent possiblility of reverse charging and related undesirable events.

Single cells, now that's reliability I like. :thumbsup: