Sold/Expired WTB: 2 stage switch for my SureFire G2

[Kid9P]

Hey Guys,

I have a great 170 lumen Cree drop in by BugOutGear.
It's my EDC, but I would love to have a low light option
for late at night at home.

Any easy switch mods anyone can recommend or sell me.

Ray

 

[who]

The Mc2ES switch (for the C Series) is a great one. This is one simple idea, but brilliant in execution. I have 6 of them, with more to come.

 

[who]

As some CPF members contacted me for the possible sale of my Mc2ES switches, some clarification is needed.

I am not looking to sell any of my Mc2ES switches.
Kid9P asked for a low light option so I just gave my recommendation. I mentioned my six Mc2ES just to show my appreciation for them. In fact, I have never sold anything on CPF so far, just buying.

Thanks.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

The McC2S is in stock at the Shoppe.

Wayne has one assembled and five kits at this moment.

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_56_70

 

[Blindasabat]

But do they fit in a G2 tailcap? Don't they just fit E-series or Aleph tailcaps?

 

[Kid9P]

I was thinking E series only as well.
Has anyone purchased this for thier G2?

Choosing the ohms is also confusing.
Would 15 ohms give me a lower "LOW" ?

Thanks Guys!

 

[who]

The switch is here:
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_56_70&products_id=641

Instruction is here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=83844&highlight=McC2S

15-22-30-60 ohms will give you medium-low-lower-lowest.

Hope that helps.
Regards.

 

[Blindasabat]

Soooo...
There is a version that fits C and M bodies. Cool! Now does that mean it fits the G2 as well?

I have a 22ohm in an SSC modded L1 (Milky L1) and it cuts the brightness to about a third which is still very bright, so if you want something a lot dimmer, then you may want to go with the 30 ohm for (my INCREDIBLY Wild Estimates here) ~10-20L, or 60 ohm for 5-10L.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

I tried one on a G2 (non-LOTC) with a Cree drop-in module, and it works except the domed pushbutton of the switch is too long. It would need to be cut and shortened to fit properly.

A hacksaw and a file would make short work of fitting it to the G2. The button has a groove and O-ring to seat it in the inner plastic retaining ring. Cutting it right at the groove would work, then round the sharp edge with a file. You'll also need to shorten the bolt that holds the McC2S together, either separately or by sawing it at the same time assembled.

As far as the resistance/level selection, it depends on the driver being used. A Wiz or GD boost/buck will behave much differently from a DB or NG buck or boost only. The Wiz/GD will require a much lower resistance (5-10 ohms) to decrease the brightness a comparable amount, and won't even light at higher resistances. For a boost or buck only, a general rule of thumb is that 10-15 ohms will give more of a med level, 20-25 a mid-lo, and 30 and up will give low levels of output. In most cases the resistor will force the driver out of regulation but increase runtime.

These were out of stock for a long time, but I see Wayne has a few in stock now. Surprisingly they don't seems as popular as I would have thought, but obviously there hasn't been much word spread. I stocked up on a couple when I saw them available, and I suggest getting them while you can.

 

[pbs357]

Has anyone else tried this on a G2, possibly one with LOTC? I'd really like to get one for my G2 and G2Z (with cree drop ins).