WTB: Looking For Someone To Make A Full Knurl 6/4 Twisty.

[precisionworks]

Bet you didn't know someone in my team does bathroom fixtures did ya? :nana:

Put me down for the Hot & Cold water handles

Good image that clearly shows how the outside was first turned on a lathe or machining center & the V-grooves were machined into the surface. Really interesting that the V-shape is asymmetrical. Arrow on left shows a nearly vertical face while arrow on right point to a slanted face:

 

[rda1]

Good image that clearly shows how the outside was first turned on a lathe or machining center & the V-grooves were machined into the surface. Really interesting that the V-shape is asymmetrical. Arrow on left shows a nearly vertical face while arrow on right point to a slanted face:

Or they are perfectly symmetrical and it is the angle of the picture.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

Or they are perfectly symmetrical and it is the angle of the picture.

Probably symmetrical, would need a 90-degree photo to be sure.

However, those are still not full-form knurls. :devil:

 

[KuKu427]

However, those are still not full-form knurls. :devil:

LOL personal preference
bmstrong... come to the half side:devil:

Foggy weather tonight!

 

[bmstrong]

This is what I've been after for the last 5 years. I have a Drafts folder that I keep everything in, this is the longest running item I've wanted, and I've been on the CPF since 02. I think almost every custom builder has gotten a PM from me in some way, shape or form containing a variation of this. I'm going to use a couple of lights, past and current, as examples to better illustrate what I want.

Body and Head: Full knurl 6/4 titanium in Bead or Sand Blast. The closest I can find, currently produced, is exactly like Mac's current Knurly clickie offering. You know the design. I first encountered it with the Larry Light, then Doug's Firefly, then the Aeon and the Nautilus. You could ever go full knurl from head to toe. Aggressive is fine, grip is what I like. I work around water and dirt and mud. The design must be waterproof to a point. Lake Erie is a fickle mistress.

Head: I favor a classic shape, again see Mac's Knurly, with NO FRONT BEZEL, and a sapphire lens for durability. I understand there is a loss of lumen's using this instead of mineral or something else.

Tail: It must tail stand. The best design I've ever used was the old Arc AA. Simple to make, secure and can fit a full sized Titanium Spilt Ring. In the middle of the tail, on the underside, I would like a Trit installed. This is particularly important to me, since I've learned how valuable a Trit vial can be in a light. I prefer bright Trit's over the "cool" looking blue's and red's.

Length: I prefer small lights, so much so that I want the design to be compact width and length wise. No need for extra flourishes, designs or extra big bezels or thick walls or frivolous tails. Keep it simple and short.

Optional Pocket Clip: I prefer McGizmo titanium pocket clips and Titanium screws. That said, with the nature of the size and design it can be tricky. I'm just throwing it out there.

Driver and LED: I defer to you, save for one non-negotiable point: It must accept everything CR123 and RCR123. I don't care what brand and voltage, garbage battery or premium brand. I've got to be able to pop whatever in there at any moments notice and it'll work. Two minor things:

I prefer a HIGH/MEDIUM/LOW but can be talked into a two stage, if it's simpler and more reliable.

I favor run time and efficiency over crazy output and eyeball searing light with neutral tints. I will pay more for a better BIN LED.

Mad Scientist Idea or Heatsink: I favor using the body, itself, but I have always wanted someone to use a slug of pure .999 Silver. I'm curious as to what it would do with the highest thermal conductivity.

I'm happy to listen to your feedback. My needs and wants are different from others.

 

[precisionworks]

This is what I've been after for the last 5 years. I have a Drafts folder that I keep everything in, this is the longest running item I've wanted, and I've been on the CPF since 02. I think almost every custom builder has gotten a PM from me in some way, shape or form containing a variation of this. I'm going to use a couple of lights, past and current, as examples to better illustrate what I want.

Body and Head: Full knurl 6/4 titanium in Bead or Sand Blast. The closest I can find, currently produced, is exactly like Mac's current Knurly clickie offering. You know the design. I first encountered it with the Larry Light, then Doug's Firefly, then the Aeon and the Nautilus. You could ever go full knurl from head to toe. Aggressive is fine, grip is what I like. I work around water and dirt and mud. The design must be waterproof to a point. Lake Erie is a fickle mistress.

Head: I favor a classic shape, again see Mac's Knurly, with NO FRONT BEZEL, and a sapphire lens for durability. I understand there is a loss of lumen's using this instead of mineral or something else.

Tail: It must tail stand. The best design I've ever used was the old Arc AA. Simple to make, secure and can fit a full sized Titanium Spilt Ring. In the middle of the tail, on the underside, I would like a Trit installed. This is particularly important to me, since I've learned how valuable a Trit vial can be in a light. I prefer bright Trit's over the "cool" looking blue's and red's.

Length: I prefer small lights, so much so that I want the design to be compact width and length wise. No need for extra flourishes, designs or extra big bezels or thick walls or frivolous tails. Keep it simple and short.

Optional Pocket Clip: I prefer McGizmo titanium pocket clips and Titanium screws. That said, with the nature of the size and design it can be tricky. I'm just throwing it out there.

Driver and LED: I defer to you, save for one non-negotiable point: It must accept everything CR123 and RCR123. I don't care what brand and voltage, garbage battery or premium brand. I've got to be able to pop whatever in there at any moments notice and it'll work. Two minor things:

I prefer a HIGH/MEDIUM/LOW but can be talked into a two stage, if it's simpler and more reliable.

I favor run time and efficiency over crazy output and eyeball searing light with neutral tints. I will pay more for a better BIN LED.

Mad Scientist Idea or Heatsink: I favor using the body, itself, but I have always wanted someone to use a slug of pure .999 Silver. I'm curious as to what it would do with the highest thermal conductivity.

I'm happy to listen to your feedback. My needs and wants are different from others.

As I often say when asked about a custom machining job "Anything is possible with an unlimited budget" :devil:

Get 25 or 50 people to sign on & the cost is reasonable (as in McGizmo pricing). Build a one off & the Spy 007 or Tri-V will look inexpensive.

 

[mohanjude]

I am going to share my experience with a couple of machinist. Having had fun drilling fins and then cutting and milling the trit slots I thought I would go and make a couple of Ti tubes for the sunwayman V. Rather than take Sunwaymans Ti tube and rearrange the grooves why not start with blanks so I had a free reign so to speak.

I went to the first shop - I call these guys the whining machinist. Everything is complicated, expensive. Every sentence starts with 'It will cost you a lot of money' - we charge GBP 35 an hour and this kind of job will take x hours so unless you are going to be making 5000 you are looking at a lot of money brigade. I was told I need to get a drawing which the engineer will charge GBP 150.

So I went to my friendly local guy who I thought might be able to help. I only wanted him to point me in the right direction as he is flat out with work. Due to his busy shedule I didn't want to trouble him. He is what I consider anything possible guy always says " nah that's not difficult - this is how it is done"

He got his calipers out started measuring my Sunwayman and then went on his PC and within 30 mins produced a drawing. When I looked at him with amazement he said - shall I show you how easy it is to program this on the CNC lathe. Several dozen lines later the programming done. I learnt what a G76 command was...

I shot around to my house and promptly returned with the Titanium bar stock. I wanted him to make me some tubes when he was free. To cut a long story short each tube took 3 minutes each side - flip over and it took another 3 minutes on the CNC. Within 1 hour I had 7 blanks in my hand. All we need to do is design the surface. I then asked about knurling..... he said not a problem but would have preferred to do it before the tube was bored out.

What I want you guys who are out there struggling to mod your torches and make custom designs is to learn from my experience. Go and find a machinist who knows what he is doing and is confident with there abilities. They will machine you anything quickly and without a fuss. It doesnt need to cost a lot of money. People who put you off by saying it will take x hours and $$$$ are either not interested in doing your work or don't want to think about how to approach the issue. They have either suffer from a lack of ability or pre-occupy themselves by demanding expensive tools, processes and always require unnecessary steps. They take pleassure in throwing obstacles and delaying work.

The first shop I went and had my poor experience (I will never walk again into) is what I call "Theoretical whining machinists" Stay away from them - they crush your enthusiasm and creativity. When you finally find that machinist who is helpful and likes a challenge look after them. They will make this hobby fun and give you endless possibilites to create your own.

 

[KuKu427]

My needs and wants are different from others.

5 years... I see what you mean.
My machine shop would need volume before they are willing to take this on.
If we don't get volume, would you be willing to consider having someone else doing the machining?
Let's kick this ball around till we figure something out.

This is what I can do at a 1 piece level
I have a driver package coming in a couple of months or so that I can adapt to a twisty designs and get you full cr123/li ion support. 3 stage should be okay, 2 stage definitely doable. Output is adjustable to your needs before assembly.
LED bin... Whatever is commercially available.
Mule? I prefer TIR and I have a few on hand that might work.
Sapphire is no problem and I have a few spare pieces in sizes similar to what you are talking about.
Tritium... check. :devil:
Pocket clip... the size and config don't lend itself well to clips, but I have Ti screws on order...


Silver... IMO copper is better as it does have an edge in thermal capacity.

So I went to my friendly local guy who I thought might be able to help. I only wanted him to point me in the right direction as he is flat out with work. Due to his busy shedule I didn't want to trouble him. He is what I consider anything possible guy always says " nah that's not difficult - this is how it is done"

:thumbsup: Got a name?

 

[mohanjude]

:thumbsup: Got a name?

His name is Andy..

 

[precisionworks]

Originally Posted by mohanjude

So I went to my friendly local guy who I thought might be able to help. I only wanted him to point me in the right direction as he is flat out with work. Due to his busy shedule I didn't want to trouble him. He is what I consider anything possible guy always says " nah that's not difficult - this is how it is done"





:thumbsup: Got a name?

LOL :devil: I've been searching for a shop to make a small run of titanium lights, somewhere between 1 dozen & 4 dozen. Emailed blueprints with renderings to every CNC shop within 100 miles & posted the request for quote on MFG.com. Each & every shop gives the same reply - they are running well over capacity & don't want to bother with a small run like this. Pretty much the norm in an area with low labor rates & a well trained work force.

 

[egrep]

I suppose Cardiff and Benton are two very different places, eh?

Originally Posted by mohanjude

So I went to my friendly local guy who I thought might be able to help. I only wanted him to point me in the right direction as he is flat out with work. Due to his busy shedule I didn't want to trouble him. He is what I consider anything possible guy always says " nah that's not difficult - this is how it is done"





:thumbsup: Got a name?

LOL :devil: I've been searching for a shop to make a small run of titanium lights, somewhere between 1 dozen & 4 dozen. Emailed blueprints with renderings to every CNC shop within 100 miles & posted the request for quote on MFG.com. Each & every shop gives the same reply - they are running well over capacity & don't want to bother with a small run like this. Pretty much the norm in an area with low labor rates & a well trained work force.

 

[precisionworks]

I suppose Cardiff and Benton are two very different places, eh?

LOL Only six time zones apart.

 

[egrep]

Haha, yes. I suppose so. But I was talking more about the type of machinists you're likely to find.

LOL Only six time zones apart.

 

[bmstrong]

5 years... I see what you mean.
My machine shop would need volume before they are willing to take this on.
If we don't get volume, would you be willing to consider having someone else doing the machining?
Let's kick this ball around till we figure something out.

This is what I can do at a 1 piece level
I have a driver package coming in a couple of months or so that I can adapt to a twisty designs and get you full cr123/li ion support. 3 stage should be okay, 2 stage definitely doable. Output is adjustable to your needs before assembly.
LED bin... Whatever is commercially available.
Mule? I prefer TIR and I have a few on hand that might work.
Sapphire is no problem and I have a few spare pieces in sizes similar to what you are talking about.
Tritium... check. :devil:
Pocket clip... the size and config don't lend itself well to clips, but I have Ti screws on order...


Silver... IMO copper is better as it does have an edge in thermal capacity.



:thumbsup: Got a name?

I've been willing for 5 years to get one. The problems I always run into are agreeing on a price and matching the specs as much as possible. Frankly I just got tired of being disappointed via PM or Email.

 

[mohanjude]

A go at knurling....

The blanks...

Bandsaw chopping away...

Different results depending on preassure..

Now the rods need to be turned on the CNC....

 

[egrep]

You never cease to amaze me, Sir! It's not surprising, but it is amazing. Carry On!

 

[mohanjude]

Here is the 18650 body finished to go on the SM V10r Ti.

 

[Harry999]

mohanjude, Wow! I think you might find a number of CPF members will be contacting you about these...

 

[TnC_Products]

bmstrong, send me an e-mail and let me know exactly what you are looking for. I might be able to help.

Chris

 

[darkzero]

I'm not up for the task......just showing that it is possible using the form tool that Barry posted on a manual machine.