XR-E Q5, XR-E R2 and MC-E Comparisons?
- Thread starter mpireone
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brightness, current consumption, throw/flood, ...
what is "best" for You?
the Q5 and R2 are the same led, with the R2 being the better bin, so - when everything else is the same - the R2 is "better"
the MC-E on the other hand is FOUR of these led in a single package.
pos: more brightness but almost no size increase (of head)
neg:
1st: four times the current needed
2nd: four times the heat produced
3rd: much wider beam and pretty nothing to fight that
4th: other driver needed, next to impossible to drive it with full power from a single cell
(which imho makes no sense, but there are ppl whoe want that small package and dont care for 30 mins runtime)
what is "best" for You?
the Q5 and R2 are the same led, with the R2 being the better bin, so - when everything else is the same - the R2 is "better"
the MC-E on the other hand is FOUR of these led in a single package.
pos: more brightness but almost no size increase (of head)
neg:
1st: four times the current needed
2nd: four times the heat produced
3rd: much wider beam and pretty nothing to fight that
4th: other driver needed, next to impossible to drive it with full power from a single cell
(which imho makes no sense, but there are ppl whoe want that small package and dont care for 30 mins runtime)
znomit
Enlightened
The Q5 is the best as it is the cheapest.
The MC-E is the best, as it is the brightest.
The R2 is the best, as it is the most efficient.
What is your application?
The MC-E is the best, as it is the brightest.
The R2 is the best, as it is the most efficient.
What is your application?
I want to build a Dereelight MC-E type of torch with decent runtime (2hrs+). Just wondering which emitter and circuit board is best to build upon?
What 1 mode circuit board would be good to build around that?
R33E8
Newly Enlightened
Actually, shouldn't the MC-E be more efficient than an r2 at the same drive levels? (350mA parallel on the MC-E vs 350mA r2).. The MC-E would be the best all around with the best efficiency at lower drive levels and much brighter maximum brightness.. I don't know how it deals with throw and stuff though..
Gunner12
Flashaholic
It takes a much larger reflector to make the MC-E have the same beam pattern as the XR-E R2(MC-E has 4x emitting area vs R2). The MC-E(depending on bin) at the same drive current should be more efficient then the R2 though.
Do you want to build a light like the Dereelight DBS with good throw and spill? Then why not just get the DBS with a single mode pill?
Well, you won't have the experience of building a light though.
Do you want to build a light like the Dereelight DBS with good throw and spill? Then why not just get the DBS with a single mode pill?
Well, you won't have the experience of building a light though.
Superdave
Enlightened
a MC-E in 4P driven at 800mA is still roughly 100 lumens brighter than a Q5 @ 800mA. I've tested both in my rig, there is a pretty big difference.
with the MC-E driven at 3A it's like 6x brighter than a Q5. That's running it pretty hard though. :duh2:
with the MC-E driven at 3A it's like 6x brighter than a Q5. That's running it pretty hard though. :duh2:
Yes, I am right on the edge of buying a DBS!! But yes, I'd like to meddle in TRYING to build a torch. Don't know quite what I'm doing, especially with the technical aspect of the NUMBERS as far as the mA's and stuff.
Just want to get the best emitter for me with the right driver.
Don't mean to sound like a total novice but what's "4P?"
Also, there's all these damn multi-mode drivers, is there ANY way to tweak the driver to make it into a single mode? Don't need SOS or low, I just want to light up the torch! I have a 3-mode light and I'm OVER it!!!!
Superdave
Enlightened
all 4 dies in parallel. You can run it in several different configurations, 4P seems to be the most common, however 2S-2P seems to pop up sometimes as well.
Marduke
Flashaholic
Sounds like you have only used a cheap DX multi-mode driver. A well designed light with a well designed UI is a pleasure to use, multiple modes and all.
Yep, I have a cheap Romisen 3 mode cr@%, but I also have a multi-mode Tiablo A6 which is OK just as long as you give it a good second or two between ON and OFF's. I'd rather not have to tinker with the button, I just want "ON"
FYI - Although in a different class of bulbs, the little A6 just about kept up side-by-side with the Surefire M4, as far as flood and throw. That little thing packs a punch. Don't have the A9 but I'm sure it'll blow the M4 away.
Superdave
Enlightened
MC-E 4P @ 800mA in a Z3, 6120 lux in my rig, which is around 227 Lumens
Cree Q5 800mA dropin in a Z3, 3600 lux which is roughly 133 Lumens
both done on fresh cr123's. The luxmeter don't lie
Is 3A running it hard ? It's only 750ma per die.. I've had mine (4s) running at 1A per die for around 5 minutes. Needs a good heatsink though. I'm considering running it at 1A per die permanently in the dive light I'm building...
znomit
Enlightened
MC-E 4P @ 800mA in a Z3, 6120 lux in my rig, which is around 227 Lumens
Cree Q5 800mA dropin in a Z3, 3600 lux which is roughly 133 Lumens
both done on fresh cr123's. The luxmeter don't lie
Thats a poor Q5, should be up over 200lm at 800mA.
How do you convert lux to lumens?
