I just wanted to chime in and mention that the 25-30% loss of light when the dome is removed was measured using devices very similar to an integrating sphere. Saabluster tested his using a ceiling bounce test, and I did similar tests using an integrating "box" that I made. Even though these devices may not be accurate when finding the exact lumen output, they are excellent when making comparative tests (before and after tests) since they do not vary any between tests.
Actually, I just did another unfortunate test on an LED that has a large beam angle: the MC-E. It was a pleasant neutral white emitter I had in a flashlight. I measured the lux when it was healthy, but after some "messing around" with different reflectors, I accidentally got the glass dome wedged into the opening on a plastic reflector, so when I pulled away the reflector, I took the dome with it. I tested the LED soon after because I was worried about losing total light output, and sure enough, I did lose about 30% of the total light. Now the neutral MC-E has about the same efficiency as the older cool white Luxeon K2 emitters. :mad:
So, I do not recommend removing the die unless you are really striving for throw. Even then, you may only see a 30% increase in trow when using a reflector (brighter, tighter spot), but then you find that the hotspot brightness is no brighter than the hotspot of an un-modified emitter (which is maybe slightly larger). So, all you see is a decrease in hotspot size and an overall decrease in total lumens.
I am interested in seeing how the large TIR optic would work. Didn't Inova use a very long, deep TIR optic in one of their lights? What if you start by mating that optic with the R2 XR-E or Sunlite emitter with oil? Just dont forget what saabluster said earlier: you are messing with the hard work of the researchers. You will have to put quite a lot of time into research to find the perfect materials, optical design, and mechanical design to seal this potentially slimy mess! Luckily, lots of flashlights come as being somewhat waterproof, so keeping the fluids in might be simple after all. :grin2:Now keeping the fluid away from the battery may be a different story!
I wish there could be more info on the "Sunlite 8W" LED emitter. I am wondering about the efficiency of the emitter compared to an overdriven XR-E. Dont forget the Cree XP-E (R2), the Lumileds TFFC Rebel (0100) and TFFC K2 (0200), and the Seoul P4 (U2) emitters are available for some decent over-driving. These emitters have the desirable lambertian beam pattern so you do not have to deal with the tricky optic and metal ring found on the XR-E. The domes on these emitters do magnify the die some, but they could be a better way to start. Actually, the dome on the Rebel can be removed (no bond wires -yay) so you can access the die directly (dry, no silicone goo found here!). Good luck all! Could this be continued in a more dedicated thread? Just curious...
Cheers,
-Tony