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Thanks for the hint Tom !
I did the same as I read your post.
I have put the JETBEAM momentary clicky into the L2mini tailcap.
However the spring of JET clikie is shorter, so there's needing now more force for permanent ON . But the momentary ON is easy to get.
You can easier press the clickie of L2 than the one of L2m ...too short body.
 
However the spring of JET clikie is shorter
Click to expand...
Yes and it is much softer than the SF spring, so still not a perfect solution.

I'm thinking about replacing the spring on the JetBeam-board by the original spring from the SF Clicky.
I'm working on it, just need some time and i have to find my soldering iron. ;)
 
van Christie said:
Sorry for asking it here, but I didnt want to open a new thread extra for such a small question.

If I buy this bezel (http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=6357) do I need the whole L2 lamp for it or merely need the drop-in, body and tail-switch minus the head?

Regards, Patrick
Click to expand...

I would assume you already have a solarforce light and asking if this head fits yours? ALL parts for L2 and L2m are interchangeable, although you need to add a ring for forward clickies to make it work.
 
Hello,

actually I dont have anything now.
I was thinking about buying the bezel from KD and the body (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-940/18650-BODY/Detail), tail-switch (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-336/switch/Detail) and drop-in (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-1137/MCE/Detail) from the solarforcestore.

Reason: If I buy the whole L2 (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-1132/MCE/Detail) plus the bezel it will cost me more and I'll have the L2 stock head and switch laying around.

Cheers, P


P.S What do you mean by "although you need to add a ring for forward clickies to make it work."?
 
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Can anyone suggest a drop-in for the L2M that runs on primaries @3V? I have decided to standardise on 123 primary cells...:shrug:
 
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Is that the MC-E drop-in directly from solarforcestore?
What is that bluish color at the back (between the body and the tail-cap)?

Cheers, P
 
Meganoggin said:
Can anyone suggest a drop-in for the L2M that runs on primaries @3V? I have decided to standardise on 123 primary cells...:shrug:
Click to expand...

Malkoff M30 is the only one I know of that boosts instead of just being buck and direct drive on 1 primary. Even it isn't as bright on one primary as with Li-ion. From the sales page:

The output is approximately 235+ lumens at 3.3v+ and 160+ lumens at 3v. The runtime is 1 1/4+ hours on one CR123 primary battery.
Click to expand...
 
Optik49 said:
IMG_2690.jpg
Click to expand...

Is that a Fivemega 3P body you have the A001 Solarforce head on? The two A001 Solarforce heads I have leave a 1/4in gap on all my Fivemega Surefire clone bodies. They screw down to a certain point and then will not go down any further. Did you do anything special to make them fit better?
 
van Christie said:
Is that the MC-E drop-in directly from solarforcestore?
What is that bluish color at the back (between the body and the tail-cap)?

Cheers, P
Click to expand...

QtrHorse said:
Is that a Fivemega 3P body you have the A001 Solarforce head on? The two A001 Solarforce heads I have leave a 1/4in gap on all my Fivemega Surefire clone bodies. They screw down to a certain point and then will not go down any further. Did you do anything special to make them fit better?
Click to expand...


OK, It's a Fivemega 3 body, Surefire tail cap, blue reflective 3M tape and a :sssh: custom Malkoff P7 Direct Drive running off an AW IMR16340. :devil:

It does have small gap near the head. A little less than an O ring maybe give or take. Far less than at the tail cap.

It's VERY :caution: VERY bright, lots of flood. I have also used it with an 18650 in a full size body (AKA 2X123’s). Truly a pocket rocket. It’s the brightest light for its size I have ever seen.
 
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Left to right : L2 Mini MC-E / L2 Mini R2 / SSC P7 / 2 remaining R2's .

I hope to have one more 18650 L2 body this week , and a Cree XPE-WC-R2 drop in for it ...
 
Taking the bite out.

nobitel2jpg.jpg


Mod on the left standard on the right (polished only).
Stainless crenulated bezel without the bite, slips easily into your pocket without catching or tearing :)
Half an hour spent filing and polished up with a Dremel.
​
 
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van Christie said:
Hello,

actually I dont have anything now.
I was thinking about buying the bezel from KD and the body (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-940/18650-BODY/Detail), tail-switch (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-336/switch/Detail) and drop-in (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-1137/MCE/Detail) from the solarforcestore.

Reason: If I buy the whole L2 (http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-1132/MCE/Detail) plus the bezel it will cost me more and I'll have the L2 stock head and switch laying around.

Cheers, P


P.S What do you mean by "although you need to add a ring for forward clickies to make it work."?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can assemble the parts you wish for L2 and L2M.
If you want to install forward switches on L2M, you'll need a contact ring because the body threads can't reach the contact ring. But forward clickies work fine for L2. You can see what I mean here.
 
Norm said:
Taking the bite out.

nobitel2jpg.jpg


Mod on the left standard on the right (polished only).
Stainless crenulated bezel without the bite, slips easily into your pocket without catching or tearing :)
Half an hour spend filing and polished up with a Dremel.
​
Click to expand...

Wow , your really getting into the polishing ! :D Very nice work .
 
Norm - that's one good way to spend your time. It looks really good.


Norm said:
Taking the bite out.



Mod on the left standard on the right (polished only).
Stainless crenulated bezel without the bite, slips easily into your pocket without catching or tearing :)
Half an hour spend filing and polished up with a Dremel.
​
Click to expand...
 
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