Question about my first mod-2 stage fenix tailcap

shakeylegs

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I've bridged the clicky of one of my fenix l1's with a 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistor and it functions well as a two stage twisty. If I understood correctly, another thread mentioned that two such resistors would result in a brighter "low" stage than that achieved by one resistor. I add two 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistors to a second l1 and although the tailcap now functions as a twisty, activating the clicky results in no change in brightness. Full power to the led in both positions. Did I misunderestimate or just commit a blunder?
Any thoughts much appreciated
 

TrueBlue

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Mar 5, 2004
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You did bridge and solder the resistor from one side of the switch connector to the other? If you did that then check to see that when you assembled the switch that the resistor case didn't rub against the threads. If you wore the resistor insulator then the resistor would short out on the threads.
 

shakeylegs

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napa valley
Trueblue,
after some, much, fiddling I've realized as much - that the tailcap threads must be touching some part of my installation. The two stages of the switch work great when held in contact with the flashlight body sans tailcap. A bit of a cluge in the field however. I've filed, fiddled, bent and nudged and I'm close to finding the sweet spot, lol. Looks as if the switch is a bit off center within the pcb and so not quite enough room on the side of the second resister.
Now if I could just find my crowbar

FWIW, I prefer the brightness of the two resistors over the single resistor for navigating, and the single resistor mod for close-up work. Oh for a three stage
 

yellow

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Oct 31, 2002
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sounds as if You will have to change to a 5 Ohms resistor on the side where the offset switch leavs more place
 

HGB

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Aug 7, 2002
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I also have the switch off center in my L1P. So I used a single 4.7 ohms 1/2 Watt Metalfilm-resistor (they are much smaller than the regular ones).
Also added some Teflon tape around the resistor and switch altogether, to isolate the resistor and switch contacts from the body. Didn't wrap around the board, just the resistor & switch. I used half the width of the Teflon tape (used sissors to cut longitudinally the tape).
It works for me, and might work for you too.
 

shakeylegs

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napa valley
I considered the 5 ohm solution but impatient as I am I opted for a quick tube insert of parchment paper (yes I was working in the kitchen) to isolate the switch from the body and suddenly the problem was gone. Evidently I purchased my resistors in the "Husky" department at radioshack. Long term I'll look at a single resistor solution.
 
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