Clarification on term "Kiu's High Temp Switch" needed

Hi CPFers,

I'm interested in making one of the high-power mag mods (Mag100 or Mag623) in the near future, but am confused about the term "Kiu's High Temp Switch". I do have a few Kiu's high temp socket kits as shown here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/104816&highlight=high+temp+switch, so is the end-product of these kits a "Kiu's High Temp Switch"?

Sorry for my noob qn..

Yellobie,

Hi, as far as i'm concerned you are correct in what you are saying.
I usually just call it Kiu's socket or Kiu's high temp socket.
So yes, "Kiu's high temp switch".

Good luck with your mod.

GL! I just put one together myself. It's awesome bright!

KIU's high temp socket will work fine, but parts of the stock M@gswitch will fail eventually if you do extended runtimes etc. I'm only using mine in minute or two bursts so should be ok. For exampe, NT when he originally did his poor man's USL... i think eventually the grounding screw to the M@g body failed. They fixed it by drilling the surface of the host where the screw contacts and made the screw flat tipped and also added some progold. If you plan to use it for extended runtimes...look to replacing the whole switch maybe.

A great solution is to deanodize the body anywhere that contacts are made, solder anything you can that isn't already also. And apply ProGold as early as you can to any light's switch assembly and contacts. If you give it a blast of ProGold when everything is brand new and hasn't been corroded by even normal use, it'll all be much easier. Cleaning corrosion off is a huge pain in the ***.

If you plan on pushing much more than 30 watts, though, you probably want to do some serious rewiring a la the USL if only for the sake of minimizing resistance. Avoiding the use of the light body as an electrical path is a great start.

Thanks for all the great advices!! I do wish to use the light for a longer runtime than just a min or two, and in this case, where can I look for a switch that is up to the job? I will give a try in modifying the switch, but I won't expect much since this is the first time I'm doing it

Anyway, thanks again!

It doesn't take much runtime for corrosion to form, or much current, so it's a good idea to at least spray some progold around as preventative maintenance. It'll improve efficiency anyway.

CPF member Cmacclel do some 10A rated tailcap switches i think. Have a look at some of the regulators being offered on CPF atm too.

Thanks for pointing me to the right directions Delvance, kennyj and DreamScape ! I will check to see if there is any progold available in my area

If not, it can be ordered for reasonable prices (and there are CPF-only discount codes available, if I'm not mistaken.) I think RadioShack stocks it, but I'm not sure.

The regulators are a great option as well. I think at least one of them also has an option to make the mag switch a soft switch, meaning the regulator gets a direct line to both battery terminals and the switch is just used to signal the regulator to turn the lamp on or off. This allows for more direct solder connections and the lowest resistance possible.

Yup ! Radio Shack stocks the Deoxit (cleaner) and Pro Gold (treatment) in pen form and the pen forms are 100% solution, which is good and makes it easy to use. They're about 13/14 $$/ea - good stuff.

Cliff

Roger that