Streamlight PP 4AA/3C drop test. *pics* both lights totalled

Dear everyone,

If you browse the CandlePower Forums for a while, you will find many references to the Streamlight's ProPolymer Luxeon series flashlights.

These lights are very popular here for their relatively good price, well regulated output and rumored durability. I will be performing a series of durability test on both the 4AA and 3C models that is representative of accidental drops that may occur in real life construction and industrial uses.

This experiment made possible with testing samples generously loaned for no charge from

Sloan Brothers Co.
Oakmond, Pennsylvania
(CPF user: haribante)

Testing methods:

1. Three drops from approximately 6' onto the sidewalk. I believe this is very likely to happen. (random drop angles)
2. Drop from approximately 30' onto a concrete surface. This type of a drop may occur in construction/repair settings, such as utility line repair on a lift bucket. (one 45 degree drop head up, one 45 degree drop head down)
3. Drop from approximately 60' onto a concrete surface. This type of a drop is probably not very common, but could happen in utlity repairs, elevator hoistway inspection and such. (one 45 degree drop head up, one 45 degree drop head down)
4. If they somehow survive all the tests, I will drive over the head part with my car. Maglite commercial does this with a truck, so I think it would be a reasonable testing expectation for a med to high end flashlight.

I will try to take as many useful picture as I can and they will be posted here, so stay tuned.

Average fall time after five tries: 1.98 seconds
Calculated height: 19.2m
Calculated terminal velocity: 19.42m/s (~ 70kph/43mph)







Pre-destructive testing data:

Streamlight ProPolymer 3C (yellow)
weight with 3C alkaline batteries: 14.6 oz
Force to activate switch: 3lbs momentary, 6 lbs engage
3.8v x (3x NiMH AA in sleeves) 0.76A = 2.9 watts

Streamlight ProPolymer 4AA(yellow)
weight with 4AA alkaline batteries: 7.6 oz
Force to activate switch: 12 oz momentary, 18 oz engage
5.1v (4 x NiMH AA) x 0.45A = 2.3 watts

It has been reported that 3C is slightly brighter than the 4AA. My electrical testing shows that the 3C uses 25% more power than the 4AA, so it make sense.

For all fairness, I think the Streamlight 3C should be compared with 3 watt lights considering the total input power is 2.9 watts. Because of the good regulation, it should be superior to many 3W lights.

Pre-destruction photos:


Freshly arrived


Beam test setup. The black one is not a destructive test candidate.


beam test projection.


Since there's so many NiMH compatibility discussion about button not fitting in the 3C model, here's a pic. Button larger than 7mm will not fit. Maha said their 5,000mAh 2 pack C cells has an 8mm button, so looks like they're out, unless you want to enlarge the hole


The spell of destruction

Preliminary-

Drop from 7' to concrete, three times, varying angles.
Both lights suffered cosmetic blemishes. The thread on the body was slightly damaged on the 3C binding the head requiring quite a bit of effort to remove it.

(3C)


(4AA)


There was no visible internal damage, but feeling things around, the glue holding the plastic driver assembly and aluminum LED/reflector assembly together have shattered following a few 7' drops allowing them to come apart.


(4AA)
Easily repairable by gluing it back together using a generous amount of Epoxy glue, but in my opinion, these should have been glued better from the factory.

On the plus side, the 3C head can operate on 2AA NiMHs at some 1.4A and produce a full output, so you can definitely pull the circuit to use as a driver for 2AA super bright Luxeon drive.


Just as expected, batteries were damaged. I was expecting battery damage, so I used dead batteries. If you are using NiMH batteries, you should take extra precaution to not drop the light, because as little as 7' of drop onto the sidewalk will damage the batteries.

Now for the real test:

First few tests were performed at four story equivalent. After two tries, neither lights showed visible damage, but the clickie on the 4AA became unreliable and the 3C lost the ability to lock in "on" position. Here goes the switches. No visible change, so no photos.

Moving onto drops from 6 1/2 story equivalent.

Free fall stopped in time.

Seeing as the switch stopped working right, I might as well drop them over and over again to their death. After the first drop, the plastic nut and rubber boot from the clickie flew off from the 4AA and became permanently stuck "on". The 3C didn't change at all. After the second drop, the 4AA didn't turn on at all and the 3C still haven't changed from the four story equivalent drop. After the third try, both lights ceased to light.



This is the final result. The case held together and it doesn't appear damaged, but massive internal damage totalled both lights.


The 4AA developed a crack, but it didn't separate.


4AA - Driver circuit damaged. The two came apart as I unscrewed the bezel. Ferrite core in the inductor shattered and the negative LED wire was severed.








4AA After landing head first. I believe this was caused by the momentum of the batteries impacting the backside of the module.


Shoddy picture. Hard to see, but the reflector was deformed slightly.


Goner? I think so... It still lit up when connected to a power supply though. I do not know if this happend as the batteries impacted the rear of the lamp module or as it collided violently with the front lens.

What was inside the 4AA after all the drops?




This is the 3C. Got bashed pretty good. The lens/bezel seal is gone.


Clickie on the 3C. Looks fine, but something broke inside. Forcefully lifting off the rubber, there was a piece of plastic broken off inside.


The LED didn't pop off from the head with the 3C, but internally, it was screwed up. A surface mount component flew off (that tan thing sitting out of place) and the ferrite core of the inductor shattered.


Batteries :bow:


The remains prior to being boxed to be returned to haribante. Pretty sure they're both messed up beyond all repair. :lolsign:

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

I thought you already had a SL 4AA PP Lux? Why don't you use that one?

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Ill donate my MiniMag light:naughty:

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

What in gods name....
from what i can see thats 7 stories high followed by a damp thud on to the concrete floor beneath...

How would you feel if you were dropped 7 floors down onto concrete with a full stomach [batteries included]???
:lolsign:
lol, j/k

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Go for it. To make the test interesting and revealing - drop several different lights until complete and utter failure.

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Yukon_Jack said:

Go for it. To make the test interesting and revealing - drop several different lights until complete and utter failure.

Click to expand...

If I donated a light can I at least have the pieces back...
a referbished light with krazy glue, have that as a record, then donate it back to be shattered again....

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Illum_the_nation said:

If I donated a light can I at least have the pieces back...
a referbished light with krazy glue, have that as a record, then donate it back to be shattered again....

Click to expand...

If you have a Streamlight ProPolymer 4AA (xenon, luxeon, or LED) or any other "lifetime abuse warranted" light you can donate, I will do the drop test, document it, post photographs here and I will return you either the complete light or its pieces, depending on how it holds up to the test.

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Ooo, looks fun, will you post some pics?

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

I'm still not clear as to why you want to break other people's lights but aren't willing to risk your own ProPoly which would also carries a lifetime warranty.

Handlobraesing said:

If you have a Streamlight ProPolymer 4AA (xenon, luxeon, or LED) or any other "lifetime abuse warranted" light you can donate, I will do the drop test, document it, post photographs here and I will return you either the complete light or its pieces, depending on how it holds up to the test.

Click to expand...

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

I walk the walk - pm me your address and a flashlight will be sent - maybe a couple. No return of pieces required or desired - only that pictures of the light after the test are posted on the forum. In addition, I will personally be grateful that you took the time to do, and document, the test for posterity.

Personally, I believe it is WAY beyond time that we start truly torturing these lights to utter failure with documentation. I'm tired of hearing the LEDMuseum talk about "rapping" the light a few times on a piece of steel and calling it a torture test To make the test truly interesting and revealing, I would suggest putting a stringer on one end of the light to insure either they land head or butt first to help make the test more consistant and revealing. You know, just add a few feathers to one end to insure it lands on the other end. I'd do the butt test first then the bezel test.

I'm am truly excited at the prospects of seeing photos and reading a report on a variety of lights being destroyed - "or not".

P.S. - I love the LEDMuseum - not offense

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Yukon_Jack said:

I walk the walk - pm me your address and a flashlight will be sent - maybe a couple. No return of pieces required or desired - only that pictures of the light after the test are posted on the forum. In addition, I will personally be grateful that you took the time to do, and document, the test for posterity.

Personally, I believe it is WAY beyond time that we start truly torturing these lights to utter failure with documentation. I'm tired of hearing the LEDMuseum talk about "rapping" the light a few times on a piece of steel and calling it a torture test To make the test truly interesting and revealing, I would suggest putting a stringer on one end of the light to insure either they land head or butt first to help make the test more consistant and revealing. You know, just add a few feathers to one end to insure it lands on the other end. I'd do the butt test first then the bezel test.

I'm am truly excited at the prospects of seeing photos and reading a report on a variety of lights being destroyed - "or not".

P.S. - I love the LEDMuseum - not offense

Click to expand...

I knew that if anyone was gonna pony up for this it would be good ole Yukon_Jack. He buys his lights 4 and 6 at a time. Nice to have money. :goodjob:

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Hey this sounds familiar? :thinking:

Anyhou, way to go Yukon_Jack! :thumbsup:

". .until complete and utter failure." That's Y_J's line around here. Can't wait to see the pics on these "drop-tests" on said lights, which I didn't have because I don't have a digital camera—Yet!

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Yukon_Jack said:

I walk the walk - pm me your address and a flashlight will be sent - maybe a couple. No return of pieces required or desired - only that pictures of the light after the test are posted on the forum. In addition, I will personally be grateful that you took the time to do, and document, the test for posterity.

Personally, I believe it is WAY beyond time that we start truly torturing these lights to utter failure with documentation. I'm tired of hearing the LEDMuseum talk about "rapping" the light a few times on a piece of steel and calling it a torture test To make the test truly interesting and revealing, I would suggest putting a stringer on one end of the light to insure either they land head or butt first to help make the test more consistant and revealing. You know, just add a few feathers to one end to insure it lands on the other end. I'd do the butt test first then the bezel test.

I'm am truly excited at the prospects of seeing photos and reading a report on a variety of lights being destroyed - "or not".

P.S. - I love the LEDMuseum - not offense

Click to expand...

Awesome I and the CPF members totally appreciate this

Let me know which lights you can submit for testing. I won't be able to do unusually long ones as it might the sides of the narrow drop shaft.

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Handlobraesing said:

If you have a Streamlight ProPolymer 4AA (xenon, luxeon, or LED) or any other "lifetime abuse warranted" light you can donate, I will do the drop test, document it, post photographs here and I will return you either the complete light or its pieces, depending on how it holds up to the test.

Click to expand...

I'll hafta dig up $30 to go buy it first...review it, then decide whether I should give it up and shorten its lifespan to a couple of hours...


The chances are pretty slim, Im broke...
If i sell my XO at least I can have some cash in my wallet...


Post pics [sniff] if someone decide to shatter a light... [sniff]

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

If I understand, the streamlight is lifetime warranty - which other ones are? Is the idea of the test to be only for lifetime lights? Would it be interesting to see how cheapos compares?

It "hurts" to try and decide what I have available to destroy as you can imagine. I will need to go through what I have and decide what I can part with. A Streamlight LED will definitely be one of the lights because that is what started the whole thing.

BTW - I am by no means rich. I only have a lot of light because I have a serious disorder. They say that admitting that one has a disorder is the beginning of recovery I'm told - however, I obviously haven't fallen to the depths of dispare because I'm more into light now that I was many many years ago and, in fact, am ordering a couple of the new two stage Fenix since my favorite merchant is now carrying them. NO - you can't have one of my new Fenix

Bottom Line: I just need an address so I can mail a few lights. If the drop test and results are received as being interesting - I imagine you'll have no problem getting other lights to test. I envision that you may soon be internationally recognized as the "DROP DEAD KING".

On the serious side, If I were you, I would give serious consideration as to exactly what test you want to make, exactly how you will make them, and then how you will document them. I say this because the very nature of the testing makes repeat performances extemely expensive. You may wish to have a well thought out set of criteria developed ahead of time so that all future test on other lights will be relavent. If I may suggest, you may wish to graduate your drop test from different heights onto different surfaces so you may better distinguish the strength of the lights. If they all are dropped from a tremendous heights onto concrete (full of batteries) they will most likely just explode apart. I wonderful test may be to first drop the lights from chest level onto first carpet, then wood, then concrete to simulate the most likely drop. Then if they pass, go on to more serious heights. Over time, with the cooperation of CPF members, you may be able to develop a chart similar to flashlightreview's throw and total light outpuit.

I predict that you will become internationally recognized someday and your accumulated tests will be well known and utilizied by civilians, the military, and manufacturers alike. I only ask that you remember Yukon_Jack in your writings. Did I mention I need an address to sent a few flashlights

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Yukon_Jack said:

On the serious side, If I were you, I would give serious consideration as to exactly what test you want to make, exactly how you will make them, and then how you will document them. I say this because the very nature of the testing makes repeat performances extemely expensive.

Click to expand...

Here's the proposal. I'm open to any inputs, except for something that puts me lingering around in the stairwell for an hour.I will do a pre-test at 4 feet, drop from 4th floor mezzanine and finally 7th floor landing onto 1st floor solid concrete floor. (see picture in post one)

Pre-test:
Onto the sidewalk from 4 feet. Anything suffering a serious damage/becomes unfunctional at this stage will not be tested further.

1.
Drop angle will be approximately 45 degrees from vertical since in real life, the chance of perfect 180 or 90 degree drop is slim.

2.
each sample will be fitted with dead batteries and weighed.
Pre-drop photograph and weight will be record.

3.
4th floor drop will be performed for each sample. The light will be dissassembled to major components and internal photos will be taken.

4.
7th floor drop will be performed and aftermath will be photographed thoroughly.

5.
Measuring the height is going to be a pain, so I will go back at a later time and drop a tiny rock and calculate the estimated drop height using a kinematic formula.

You may wish to have a well thought out set of criteria developed ahead of time so that all future test on other lights will be relavent. If I may suggest, you may wish to graduate your drop test from different heights onto different surfaces so you may better distinguish the strength of the lights. If they all are dropped from a tremendous heights onto concrete (full of batteries) they will most likely just explode apart. I wonderful test may be to first drop the lights from chest level onto first carpet, then wood, then concrete to simulate the most likely drop. Then if they pass, go on to more serious heights. Over time, with the cooperation of CPF members, you may be able to develop a chart similar to flashlightreview's throw and total light outpuit.

I predict that you will become internationally recognized someday and your accumulated tests will be well known and utilizied by civilians, the military, and manufacturers alike. I only ask that you remember Yukon_Jack in your writings. Did I mention I need an address to sent a few flashlights

Click to expand...

Hopefully, I can get the test result posted on flashlight review

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Handlobraesing said:

5.
Measuring the height is going to be a pain, so I will go back at a later time and drop a tiny rock and calculate the estimated drop height using a kinematic formula.

Click to expand...

Stairwells are usually spaced evenly, at least in newer buildings. So maybe you could just measure the height of a single stair and multiply it by the total number of stairs?

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

nocturnal said:

Stairwells are usually spaced evenly, at least in newer buildings. So maybe you could just measure the height of a single stair and multiply it by the total number of stairs?

Click to expand...

The very bottom to 2nd might be different and that's more or less the only practical spot for measuring.

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

Handlobraesing said:

The very bottom to 2nd might be different and that's more or less the only practical spot for measuring.

Click to expand...

Oops, I actually meant to measure a single *step* and multiply its height by the number of steps (I was using the wrong term - sorry). You're right, floor heights often vary, but single steps rarely differ in height on one and the same staircase, in my experience (sometimes, the very first or last may be different, though, especially in older buildings).

Re: Anybody want to donate a SL 4AA PP in the name of drop test?

nocturnal said:

Oops, I actually meant to measure a single *step* and multiply its height by the number of steps (I was using the wrong term - sorry). You're right, floor heights often vary, but single steps rarely differ in height on one and the same staircase, in my experience (sometimes, the very first or last may be different, though, especially in older buildings).

Click to expand...

The building was built in the early 60s