TripleBlaster, Triple Luxeon Star Mag Lite Mod

I recently modified a Mag Lite for someone, with 3 Luxeon Stars. It is pretty impressive. I did check the voltage and current. Unfortunately, I only had some used alkaline 'D' cells, and not fresh ones. I only had 3.2 volts from the 3 'D' cells, at about 700mA. Anyway, it was very impressively bright. I had to finish putting it together, so I will not be able to test it with fresh batteries. On my other triple light I made, I got about 1.7 amps.

Here's a pic:



Wayne www.elektrolumens.com

That looks sweet, and is something I've always wanted to do. How about adding flip switches on each of them so that you can have one, two, or three on at once?

Wow! (drooling) I wish I had one of those. Awesome job Mr. Johnson!

Zeph

How well would a VAR work? TX

Holy frijoles, Dr. Frankenlumen has created another monster!

Wayne, you da man. A couple of friends who are familiar with my light obsession (especially Surefires) were very impressed with the single LS conversion you did for me. I told them you were working on a two-light, and probably a three-light head, and they were astounded.

SWEET

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TripleDouble:
That looks sweet, and is something I've always wanted to do. How about adding flip switches on each of them so that you can have one, two, or three on at once?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Also would be nice with Primary Light Colors: Red, Blue, and Green. All three colors on would be white. See Additive Colorsfor pics.

Love it! I'll be waiting with bated breath for the debut of your lights. (I was about to email you yesterday, when alas, I visited your web site, and saw that you are no longer taking orders. ).

Good luck with your new endeavor!

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TripleDouble:
That looks sweet, and is something I've always wanted to do. How about adding flip switches on each of them so that you can have one, two, or three on at once?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I suppose if someone really wanted to, they could remove the switch and replace it with a rotary switch. Mag Lite is a pain to remove the switch, and requires special tools. The Brinkmann would be a lot easier, or several other aluminum flashlights would work too.

The wiring was not easy on this one, as there was little room. It is quite possible to switch between one to three. However, I think it would make more sense to have several power level settings, using resistance. Because, if you switch to to LS's, the two will draw the same current as the 3. Not only that, if you only use one, it will still draw about 1.5 amps! Not only that, the light from 3 LS's, each pulling 380mA, is probably brighter than one at 1.14 amps, and is definately much easier on the LS's.

If I were going to put a multiple level switch on it, I'd go with multiple resistance settings.

As I've said before, somewhere, I'm backing off from doing Mag conversions, as I will have my own Elektro Lumens flashlights, hopefully soon. I'll keep the name 'Blaster', because I like it. I'll use both the 1 watt and the 5 watt LS's. The 1 watt lambertian LS's will be more of an economy model, using 3 'C' cells, and the 5 watt might go with some sort of AA battery combination, to get the voltage up there, and a 5 'C' cell 'Whomper' model.

Wayne www.elektrolumens.com

Are those Luxeons the LS/o model? If so did you grind the heatsink flush with the sides of the collomator holder then drill holes on the inside of the holder to pass the wires? If this is the case do you solder directly to the leads on the emittter or the traces on the circut board?

I'm considering building one of these and really like the clean look around the base of the Luxeons that your's has. Very professional looking indeed..

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Slick:
Are those Luxeons the LS/o model? If so did you grind the heatsink flush with the sides of the collomator holder then drill holes on the inside of the holder to pass the wires? If this is the case do you solder directly to the leads on the emittter or the traces on the circut board?

I'm considering building one of these and really like the clean look around the base of the Luxeons that your's has. Very professional looking indeed..<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I trim each Luxeon Star w/o heat sink with a small pair of wire cutters (very short cutters, ordinary diagonal cutters will not work). I only cut off the part of the LS heat sink where the bolt holes are, and leave the corners with the electrical leads intact. I made a heat sink the size of the inside of the head. I epoxied with heat conducting epoxy the LS's on the heat sink, drilled some holes, passed wires through and soldered them on. I soldered the wires onto the PR bulb base, and put this in the socket, and then epoxied this LS assebly into the head, (which is already epoxied to the body). After the LS/head sink assembly was mounted, I poured in some very thinly mixed epoxy (mixed with a small amount of heat sink compound), to fill in for looks. Refelctor will not fit in. Took me a long time to do this one. Lots of careful labor here. I gotta make me one, as this one is now someone elses property.


Wayne

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ElektroLumens:

I only cut off the part of the LS heat sink where the bolt holes are, and leave the corners with the electrical leads intact.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Wayne! This is exactly how I had intended to do this mod because I didn't see 4 LS/o's fitting there with the "solder lead corners" still on the heatsink.

I have the "Arctic Alumina" thermal epoxy, but it comes in such small amounts (5 grams) that I don't see it as a viable solution to "pot out" the area between the LS/o's. Also I would not know how to mix the epoxy to get it thin enough to flow out so nicely.

I may try to make a "mask" to fit over the circutry to give it that finished look. Or maybe try a cheaper exoxy like JB weld that I could mix enough of to pour into the head.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Slick:
Thanks Wayne! This is exactly how I had intended to do this mod because I didn't see 4 LS/o's fitting there with the "solder lead corners" still on the heatsink.

I have the "Arctic Alumina" thermal epoxy, but it comes in such small amounts (5 grams) that I don't see it as a viable solution to "pot out" the area between the LS/o's. Also I would not know how to mix the epoxy to get it thin enough to flow out so nicely.

I may try to make a "mask" to fit over the circutry to give it that finished look. Or maybe try a cheaper exoxy like JB weld that I could mix enough of to pour into the head.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I use epoxy I purchase at Home Depot, the thinner stuff, normal setting time. It is 2 parts, 2 tubes side by side. I mix in silicon thermal greas, 1 to 1, or a higher ratio of thermal grease, depending on the need of thermal conductance. Works quite well, and is very inexpensive. Probably will not conduct heat as well as Artic Silver, but is works well enough. To mix epoxy for filling in, use a very small amount of thermal grease, as this just colors the epoxy white, and lets it remain thin. Must be soooooooooooooo careful not to let any epoxy get on the lens, and if you get it anywhere on the inside, it's a super pain to clean off later. If you get some on your fingers and get it on the knurled part of the body, forget about getting it off, so be super careful. I know, it can be a pain to clean off. Thermal grease is very messy stuff! And mixed with epoxy, it's the messiest stuff I've ever worked with.

Whatever epoxy you use, be sure it doesn't have electrical conductance, if you use it over contacts or wiring.

Good Luck,
Wayne www.elektrolumens.com

Wayne. Silicon thermal grease???? Where can that be bought if you please?

Thanks for the expoxy recipie Wayne, I think I'll just have to try that. I would have never thought that I could get away with mixing in thermal grease 1 to 1. I would have thought this would keep the expoxy from setting up right.

Anyway, I have an idea that might be worthwhile when I try this.. I've noticed people at the flea markets selling surplus plastic syringes for 25 or 50 cents each. These are the ones that hold a liquid ounce or so.. I'm thinking that it might be worth it to put the expoxy in the syringe and use it to "inject" it onto the heatsink between the LS/o's. I figure I'd have less chance of getting any slopped where I don't want it.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by phred:
Wayne. Silicon thermal grease???? Where can that be bought if you please?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I purchased it at Digikey, but you can get it anywhere. I got this idea from a web site, in which they actually did heat measurement tests, to see if it would work, and it did. I cannot remember the web site, but it's out there somewhere.

Wayne www.elektrolumens.com

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Slick:
Thanks for the expoxy recipie Wayne, I think I'll just have to try that. I would have never thought that I could get away with mixing in thermal grease 1 to 1. I would have thought this would keep the expoxy from setting up right.

Anyway, I have an idea that might be worthwhile when I try this.. I've noticed people at the flea markets selling surplus plastic syringes for 25 or 50 cents each. These are the ones that hold a liquid ounce or so.. I'm thinking that it might be worth it to put the expoxy in the syringe and use it to "inject" it onto the heatsink between the LS/o's. I figure I'd have less chance of getting any slopped where I don't want it.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I just use a disposable plastic cup, and cut off the top part. I use a plastic knife to stir it with, and then I very carefully pour it. Syringes might work, but would only be usable once.

Wayne

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ElektroLumens:

I just use a disposable plastic cup, and cut off the top part. I use a plastic knife to stir it with, and then I very carefully pour it. Syringes might work, but would only be usable once.

Wayne<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That sounds like the perfect approach for me.. Mix it in the plastic cup then pour it in the syringe. I have plenty of practice using the syringes for other things (like filling motorcycle batts, etc) and really like the way they work for me. I figure since I'm only going to build one of these lights, I can take the financial hit for throwing out a gooped up syringe. I've gotten expoxy where I didn't want it before and certainly agree with your statement of how messy this concoction could be.

Made up another one of these Triple Luxeon Star modified flashlights, and it is up for grabs on eBay. Here's the link:

Triple Blaster on eBay.

Wayne www.elektrolumens.com

Whoever ends up winning that will be one very happy guy indeed. Between yours and Lambda's Luxeon mods (I hold both of you in high esteem for your work with the Luxeon Star), everything else just seems so dim now. Flick on an Arc-LS after using one of your lights and I wonder if the Arc got loaded with dead batteries.

YOU'RE SPOILING US!!