sf z3 mods?

I have an old surefire z3 combatlight - any suggestions on Mods?

tarsier

Being a modular system it's easy to at least update (if not upgrade) your Z3 to the most current spec. My suggestions would be:

a. Shock-isolated bezel assy for M2 (black)
b. Z49/59 tail switch
c. Grip rings and spacer (forgot part #, sorry)
d. LED head option (KL3, KL5)

If you want more power with a 12V power source, you may also consider

a. Turbo head kit KT-1
b. A19 or MC123 extension
c. G&P 12V lamp assy option (compatible with standard or M2 bezel assy)

Hope that helps.

Note that the KT1 is for two-SF123A models such as the 6P.

Apart from the black "M2" bezel there is the Z32 bezel. Both are shock isolated but the Z32 is more light-weight and compact featuring a Lexan rather than Pyrex window.

In terms of TurboHeads there a various options. The KT2 with it's N2 lamp is the current TurboHead. You can also use the MN15 and MN16 lamps in it.
Perhaps the best option is the "SRTH" TurboHead from SureFire Dealer LPS. It is more light-weight and compact featuring a Lexan rather than Pyrex window.
However, it is specifically designed for the N2 rather than MN15/MN16 lamps.

In terms of TailCaps there are various options.
The Z59 compact Clickie TailCap is the only other real option if you want to retain the use of the CombatGrip. Options like the Z49 are too long and difficult to operate with the CombatGrip.

The KL3 and KL5 LED bezels come in black. If you did searching rather than shooting then the KL5 with it's broader beam would be best. If you did a lot of shooting then the KL3 with it's narrower beam would be better for shining through smoke. If you have a mixture of indoor and outdoor searching I suggest you stick with the P90/P91 lamps and get a Z32 shock isolated bezel.
If you mostly use it outdoors then the SRTH TurboHead is fantastic.

The Z3 comes with adjustable CombatGrip and a TailCap lanyard kit. SureFire does offer a lanyard ring for the bezel-end of the body as well as / instead of the TailCap ring.

Using an A19 body extender and a TurboHead (such as the KT1 or KT2) you can power the MN60, MN61 or N62 lamps with four SF123A batteries. However, you can not longer use the CombatGrip.

Al

I had some trouble with the Z32 shock iso bezel mounted on my Z3. Every now and then, it would fail to turn on if I shook it around a bit. I think the shock absorbing foam would allow the lamp to ever-so-slightly move out of engagement with the battery. Not a big deal, but it would bug me enough.

I do have a black M2 bezel on mine now and I like it. It's worked 100%.

sween1911 said:

I had some trouble with the Z32 shock iso bezel mounted on my Z3. Every now and then, it would fail to turn on if I shook it around a bit. I think the shock absorbing foam would allow the lamp to ever-so-slightly move out of engagement with the battery. Not a big deal, but it would bug me enough.

I do have a black M2 bezel on mine now and I like it. It's worked 100%.

Click to expand...

The spring(s) likely were slightly too short - careful stretching a little bit would sort that out.

thanks for the help guys!

This is good info on the Z3. I too have a couple Z3 and I think I may try that shock isolated bezel on one of them. I also have a couple of the SRTH heads and they truely are sweet when used outside. The p90 used indoors is pretty damn nice as well.

Out of curiousity Al, is the pyrex better than the lexan lens? What comes with the stock Z3 head? Is the shock isolation the only difference between the stock Z3 head and the Z32? Is one head smaller?

Curtis

Curtis

cue003 said:

Out of curiousity Al, is the pyrex better than the lexan lens?

Click to expand...

Pyrex being tempered glass will not melt nor scratch like Lexan can.
Lexan being polycarbonate will not shatter like Pyrex can.

If you are likely to use the flashlight a lot for long periods then Lexan may deform under the heat. If you are likely to subject the flashlight to hard and abusive life then Lexan will take the beating without breaking.
That said, the "M2" bezel has super thick aluminium walls and thick, well-protected Pyrex. It's as tough as it gets.

cue003 said:

What comes with the stock Z3 head?

Click to expand...

The Z3 uses the standard bezel (same as the 6P) which features a Pyrex window.

cue003 said:

Is the shock isolation the only difference between the stock Z3 head and the Z32? Is one head smaller?

Click to expand...

Apart from the window being Lexan rather than Pyrex the Z32 is a bit longer and wider diameter to be able to contain the shock isolation components.

This poor quality photo shows a few bezels and TailCaps for the standard bodies (such as the 6P). The "Hex Bezel" is the standard bezel for the 6P/Z3 etc.


The M2 bezel is much more bulky compared to the standard or Z32 bezels though. The heft (feel) of it can be useful sometimes.

Al

I have two black M2 bezels (one currently on a C3-BK and the other on a 6P with extender), and I really like the heft (feel) due to the inceased bulk that Al mentions. I initially chose the M2 BK bezel over the Z32 not only because of its Pyrex instead of Lexan lens, but also because the anti-roll feature, lost with the Z32, is retained with the M2 bezel.

Size15's said:

The Z3 uses the standard bezel (same as the 6P) which features a Pyrex window.

Click to expand...

Hrm.. the Z3 I bought had the hex bezel but with the Lexan press fit lens. I don't think they made the cut when the switchover to the Pyrex lenses went into effect before they were discontinued.

sween1911 said:

Hrm.. the Z3 I bought had the hex bezel but with the Lexan press fit lens. I don't think they made the cut when the switchover to the Pyrex lenses went into effect before they were discontinued.

Click to expand...

Too bad that you weren't on CPF a couple of weeks ago when I gave away two Z44-BK hex bezels with Pyrex window.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/123553
Unfortunately, I don't have a third one; otherwise, I would offer to send it to you.

If you really want the upgraded Z44 with Pyrex window, John at Lighthound has them for $20.
http://www.lighthound.com/sales/surefire_flashlight_bezels.htm

sween1911 said:

Hrm.. the Z3 I bought had the hex bezel but with the Lexan press fit lens. I don't think they made the cut when the switchover to the Pyrex lenses went into effect before they were discontinued.

Click to expand...

Ditto, we have two Z3s that are the same: hex/lexan. Both replaced with the hex/pyrex Z44 bezel (one now normally has a KL3).

sween1911 said:

Hrm.. the Z3 I bought had the hex bezel but with the Lexan press fit lens. I don't think they made the cut when the switchover to the Pyrex lenses went into effect before they were discontinued.

Click to expand...

My Z3, which I purchased new, does have a Pyrex lens in it.

EDIT - I was wrong. My Z3 has the polycarbonate lens as well.

If there is no output benefit (not talking light meter reading here...real world) from using the Z44, why spend the $20 on it unless your existing setup is damaged?

Just curious.

Thanks.

Curtis

The Lexan window is more likely to be damaged by the heat generated from using the P90/P91 lamps constant-on for long periods.

Al

Size15's said:

The Lexan window is more likely to be damaged by the heat generated from using the P90/P91 lamps constant-on for long periods.

Al

Click to expand...

A good example of this is my original 6Z that accidently got left on in the holster...not only did it melt the lexan, it melted the nylon holster. I have since replaced it with a new Z2 bezel.

cue003 said:

If there is no output benefit (not talking light meter reading here...real world) from using the Z44, why spend the $20 on it unless your existing setup is damaged?

Just curious.

Thanks.

Curtis

Click to expand...

I replaced the bezel on my Z3 with the Pyrex window Z44. I prefer Pyrex for it's scratch resistance, in addition to it's thermal resistance.

I have only one light that has been damaged by heat, and this is an original (old, round body) 9P, where I think it was switched on with a lens cover (black flip up scope cover) closed. The lens has 'distorted' in the centre, and I have no doubt that it would have eventually melted further. One thing I notice about the shock absorbing bezels on the M2, M3, etc, is that the frontal shock absorbing foam has the effect of recessing the lamp further back in the bezel, effectively narrowing the angle of view for the beam. Assuming that this 'trapped' light eventually escapes, I wonder if this results in a brighter output?????

What the heck, my Z3 is a 'shelf queen' at the moment, I use my M3 more.

cue003 said:

If there is no output benefit (not talking light meter reading here...real world) from using the Z44, why spend the $20 on it unless your existing setup is damaged

Click to expand...

I repeatedly melted the window on my 6Z until SF finally gave up and sent me a Z44 bezel (which is a mixed blessing - I don't like the hex - oh well). As someone else pointed out, the glass also appears to be scratch-proof, where the lexan wasn't (I EDC a 6Z in my left front pants pocket).

Good stuff.

I have a Z3 as well. Will my TID fit on the M2 bezel?

I had a melter as well. Surefire replaced it, no questions. They threw in a new lamp as well. They rock. :rock:

Hi guys:

I have a question along the same lines. What kind of "options" do I have with my Z2? I know I could go with an LED head, but are there any other options?

Law