U2 / A2 Fence

OK Gang:

I am another on the fence on which one to purchase. Yes, I know that this has been discussed at length lately, and I know I SHOULD buy both, but the finances just are not there.

The question I have is one that I do not think I have seen asked. When the batteries in the U2 are depleted to the point that they will no longer drive the LED at full power, is there enough left to drive the LED at one of the lowest levels for a period of time? I remember some folks saying that their U2 jumped to a lower level, but I was not sure if it was able to maintain light at that level. Thanx in advance for your help!

What fence? If you have a credit card, buy both! Seriously, you can easily purchase both, figure out which one you like better, then sell other one right here on BST and probably get most of your money back (if you don't pay retail for it). But to answer your question, the U2 gracefully steps down each level as the battery depletes. When it drops its first level you will get more remaining runtime by switching it to one of its lower levels. Under most circumstances you will still probably have enough runtime left to find your way out of the woods.

Before I sold my U2 I found that I only ever used it on the Highest or Lowest levels. A function that the A2 can perform much quicker and easier due the type of switch the A2 uses.

FYI

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/133530
buy it before I do

leukos said:

What fence? If you have a credit card, buy both! Seriously, you can easily purchase both, figure out which one you like better, then sell other one right here on BST and probably get most of your money back (if you don't pay retail for it). But to answer your question, the U2 gracefully steps down each level as the battery depletes. When it drops its first level you will get more remaining runtime by switching it to one of its lower levels. Under most circumstances you will still probably have enough runtime left to find your way out of the woods.

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Respectfully, I disagree. It may differ from U2 to U2 but when my U2 loses it's ability to run at the maximum setting, it drops all the way down to the lowest setting.

I have the U2 and the A2, and when I use either, it is usually the A2. The light is more useful for me as the incandescent beam throws further than the U2, and the light is easier to handle. In addition to that, I use mostly either the lowest level or the highest.

The U2 also has more quirks than the A2 with regards to the beam and the doughnut pattern, and some have reported problems with the clickie tailcaps.

However, that being said, it all depends on your needs. If you need an LED light, plus you need more than 2 levels of light, then the U2 might be more suitable.

a99raptors said:

Respectfully, I disagree. It may differ from U2 to U2 but when my U2 loses it's ability to run at the maximum setting, it drops all the way down to the lowest setting.

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Mine just drops down, one level at a time. My U2 is Serial # is A00363, so a very early version. They may be different now, but I really like mine, and it holds the 18650's with room to spare.

I am probably going to get an A2 in the near future, since I have heard so much about the regulated incandescent being so white, plus I need one for my collection.

Sometimes it is hard to decide between two lights, and I just end up getting both, but never can seem to part with any of them. I am truly infected with this hobby. Hope you make the right decision.

I have both lights and I would pick the U2.

You can't go wrong with either, but the output of the U2, the number of different levels / runtimes, tremendously longer runtime on low and what I would consider to be comparable throw to the A2 but considerably greater output, cause me to pick the U2.

That being said, there is another reason to buy the U2 first... Purchasing the more expensive of the 2 lights will cause you to feel less guilty with the quick follow up purchase of the A2 as it costs less

-Goatee

what the a2 has over the u2: smaller. Less chance of donut. cheaper

what the u2 has over the a2: twice the lumen count while still having the same runtime, 6 stages, clicky, all levels regulated, and no chance of blowing a bulb.

basically... the u2 is what you want, but the a2 is cheaper.

-David

I wouldn't say the U2 has twice the lumen count of the A2. Only seems that way if you're using SF's value of 50 output lumens for the A2 (which it is not).

Between the two, i'd probably go for an A2, and if you're handy with the soldering iron, you can upgrade the LEDs to something that is suitable for your usage (less/more output). Fivemega is currently selling some SL scorpion sockets modified to take bipin bulbs and work with the A2. Apparently with the strion bulb installed, the beam is even whiter and brighter.

Then again, i don't own a U2 (but have handled/played with one) and i'd go for my A2, especially if it was to be EDC'd.

Thanx for your responses to this and my prior post. I guess the first time I sent this message it did not make it for some reason. I placed an order for the A2 with Tacticalsupply.com earlier today. I think the beam quality of the incandescant will round out and compliment the L4 and XO3, and a small and powerful incandescant is the one thing I am lacking. Among the various incandescants the regulation was the selling point.

The U2 is equally tempting, but the A2 fills the immediate need and I can always go back for the U2 at a later date after I get past the shock of what I spent for flashlights in the last 9 months. One always needs something to desire!

is there a thread on this? this looks interesting.

mark

Delvance said:

Fivemega is currently selling some SL scorpion sockets modified to take bipin bulbs and work with the A2. Apparently with the strion bulb installed, the beam is even whiter and brighter.

Click to expand...

marxs said:

is there a thread on this? this looks interesting.

mark

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TMK, those were mods for the E2e, not the A2.

I have not as yet had the pleasure of using the U2. I do have an A2 and it is excellent. Fits in you pocket easily and is able to switch between high and low very easily.

You just need to consider what you intend on using it for. Just as importantly how much you have to spend. If you purchase either I am sure you would get many years of reliable use.

leukos said:

TMK, those were mods for the E2e, not the A2.

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It's a new run, and is indeed for the A2! Have a look here leukos and marxs

My mistake, I guess I've been out of the loop!
I'm not sure I understand the value of the mod though, it seems like it creates a few weaknesses for the A2. One, bipin lamps sometimes have a tendency to fall out, and the A2 head would be imaginably difficult to retrieve the lamp. Secondly, over driving the lamp makes it less reliable with a shorter life. I suppose the trade off is a few more lumens and cheaper lamps, but you will probably have to replace them more frequently, etc. Again, I'm still not sure I see the value in this mod, but whatever floats your boat!

Good choice of the A2 instead of the U2. You saved yourself some money too.

Remember: Led is newer, higher technology than incan, and the hardware is more robust, efficient, long lasting, with longer runtimes, etc.

However, Incans produce the best light. The light can throw further, produces better color rendition, clarity, depth perception and with the A2 - produces WHITE light as opposed to a blue LED/HID tint. It's also reulated like most LED/HID lights. LED light is only useful indoors - outside tends to give a flat, shadowy, 2 dimensional feel, plus LED beams don't penetrate fog well. AMbient light sources will also "wash out" your LED light moreso than incandescant light.

Incans can be replaced when they fail, which won't happen often with your A2 since it also has "soft start." Remember, the A2 is also putting out closer to 75-80 lumens..comparing it to the U2 the actual light output of the U2 isn't going to seem noticably higher outdoors. It just won't throw as far as the A2.

Some people do claim to have won the "human eye lottery" however, and can't tell a difference between LED and incans.

Batman:

Excellent summary. I agree completely.

Law

EDited my post

The truth is that you won't know which is better FOR YOU until you try both. I compared both side by side and my U2 just totally blew away my A2 in throw, flood, runtime, tint and versatility. My U2 is an over-achiever with no donut or switch issues, and it was way better than the A2. Plus, I get to use an LG2600 rechargeable, which, for me, is way smarter than constantly stuffing primary cells into the maw of a hungry A2. And I hate, hate, hate twisties, which are dumb, dumb, dumb.

However, some of the smartest and most knowledgeable people on this forum (JS, Carrot, McGizmo) all champion the A2. And the A2 has a huge, loyal following of people who know flashlights and actually use them. For a lot of people, the A2 is perfect. The last light they would sell.

So, really, you have to try both. Leukos had it right when he said you could buy both and sell the one you least like. That's what I did. I lost about $30 in the deal, but it was worth it to see for myself which I liked better. CPF is a great place for information, but it can never replace actual, hands-on experience.

Good luck with the A2 --Josey

I've got a U2, and I'm going to look at getting an A2 tomorrow for this reason: the U2 is too bulky to carry in my slacks during the day. I think that the A2 might be more comfortable for EDC. That said, I really like my U2.

batman said:

produces WHITE light as opposed to a blue LED/HID tint.

LED light is only useful indoors -

It just won't throw as far as the A2.

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the u2 will produce whiter light than the a2... take my word for it.

led lights are great for outdoors... that is why surefire has 3 led floodlights (l2, l4, and u2), which are arguably the best camping lights.

i heard the u2 throws as much if not better than the a2 from some fellow cpfers.

-David