SubC cells size?

TigerhawkT3

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They're not much smaller than C cells at all, perhaps a few millimeters shorter and thinner. Their main benefit, in my opinion, is their ability to handle lots of current (i.e. 20-25 amps!). I have 24 of them (8 cells per each of 3 RC packs) powering my LK12.
 

LumenHound

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I just checked 3 Energizer brand C cells and they were exactly 150 mm in length when lined up and touching.

I just checked at Battery Station and they list a slew of sub C at 42.0 mm in length. That would be only 18mm longer than 3 Energizers. The diameter of their Sub C cells is listed as 23.0 mm.

You could gain a bit of room in the battery tube by sliding the switch forward a little and, if needed, you could also trim the plastic of the switch back like shown in this thread.

The cavity for the spare bulb below the tail spring is 21 mm in diameter. The inside diameter of the tailcap where the tailspring sits is 23 mm. If you were to enlarge the spare bulb cavity out to a bit more than 23.0 mm you would be able to slide the back of the 4th Sub C cell into the tailcap and still be able to screw the tailcap all the way down for a nice tight fit with the battery tube. You would have to de-anodize the bottom inside of the tailcap and use a smaller spring (or just cut down the original spring) but it would work. This is similar to how 2 unprotected 18650 Li-ions fit into a 2C for a ROP-LE mod but without the tailcap sidewall material removal.

If you have a good solid clamp, plenty of patience, and work very slowly and carefully, you could use a dremel type rotary tool with the proper bits to enlarge the spare bulb cavity to the required size. It can be done but you can't rush it when using a Dremel. It's not difficult work, just time consuming and boring work. Thank goodness the tailcap is soft aluminium and not hard steel.

There is one more alternative and that is using the less common 33mm long by 23mm diameter sized 4/5 Sub C cells.
I'm guessing you passed on that option due to their much lower capacity?
 

benighted

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Thanks for the hints LumenHound. I think I calculated I could use 4 2/3C cells with a small spacer, but then I'd have to find a place that sells those and I haven't yet.

I've had some experience modding stuff with a dremmel so I might go that route.
 

Sway

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The Vf of a WWOS LuxV is 5.91 to 6.39V, 4 NiMH cell have a nominal voltage of 4.80v, you will need some type of boost driver. Why not just use 3 NiMH C cells that will drop right in and a FatMan driver for the boost and current regulation, it's just a suggestion :)

Later
Kelly
 

benighted

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All these suggestions make me glad I actually asked for advice for once instead of just buying everything first like I usually do :grin2:

The converter board idea sounds like the best one so far. :goodjob:
Where can I get ahold of a Fatman driver?
 

Sway

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FatMan, George will have a new driver out hopefully in the next week or so called the MaxFlex that has many more features and will allow switch scrollable brightness but I've never been inside the LEDbeam switch so I don't know what it would take to mod it too momentary so the MaxFlex driver will work, if it's any thing like a Mag C unit it can be done :)

Later
Kelly
 
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