opening a civictor?

connortn · Oct 31, 2006

I posted here about swapping out the LED in a civictor with a Cree XR-E and found it 'might' be possible. I'm looking for anyone who has actually opened the head of a civictor and removed the circuit. Has anyone here done this or maybe lead me to a post here that talks about it? I did a search but so far found nothing specifically for the civictor.

Thanks...

connortn · Nov 1, 2006

No replys yet. Is the civictor so good that no one has wanted to change anything about it? Or is it just so difficult to open that no one wants to try it?

ViReN · Dec 21, 2006

Search Results pointed me to this thread however, no responses?.....
Revisiting this thread... hope some one has got some success....

ROVER · Dec 21, 2006

After a couple unsuccessful attempts just to get the light engine unscrewed from a couple fenix heads, I've given up on them as far as modability. I even bought a supposedly-nonpotted one, which was no different from the rest.
:awman:

dapyro · Dec 21, 2006

I did open up my fenix L1p. I succeeded it by turning the copper thing left and right and left and right and so further. A lot of force was needed. But I don't know if it is easy with a civictor because there is less space to put in something against the copper.

perfectname · Dec 21, 2006

I have ordered one specifically for this purpose. If I can get it open I will post. Like dapyro I was able to open up an L1P, so I'm hoping I can do the same with the Civictor.

EngrPaul · Dec 23, 2006

I just opened mine with a modified needle-nose pliers. You round off the very tips of the nose smaller and smaller until it fits in the two holes in the PCB. Then you set the civictor on a piece of paper on it's reflector opening side. Hold the needle-nose pliers in place and turn the head on the piece of paper.

I found there was a little bit of pink epoxy or loctite on the first thread near the battery.

I drilled the two holes out more cleanly so that it would be easier next time.

Good luck.

EDIT: I just did a L1T the same way, but it was more difficult to turn an also to engage the holes. I drilled the holes out while it was in the head, no problem. But then when I finally got the thing to turn, it was the PCB detached from the brass pill! I desoldered the board, and lo and behold, two more holes in the brass pill below. After an extreme amount of effort, I was able to get the brass pill out. But there was a lot of clean-up to do! I've reassembled all the components with fresh wires etc and everything works fine. Now I'm ready to install the the SSC P4s in both Civictor and L1T when they arrive...

perfectname · Dec 23, 2006

EngrPaul, I'm glad to hear you got yours open. I just recieved mine (like 20 minutes ago). It sounds like you didn't need to use too much force since you didn't use a vice. I'll be interested to hear how the new LEDs work out. I do like the size and feel of this light by the way.

ViReN · Dec 23, 2006

You know, i feel at such a disadvantage to own the potted lights

I WILL NEVER BUY ANY POTTED FLASHLIGHTS AGAIN! :sigh: they are just so unfriendly to mod.... if manufacturers want to protect their IP, why don't they just pot the converter, for LED's there is nothing to hide anyway. Drivers are already up to mark, no major improvements happening (as such) but LED's are going big time improvement...

I almost destroyed my beloved Civictor V1 .... fortunately it's still running, PCB is mangled beyond... - - -

Potted lights are such a PITA... :sigh:

EngrPaul · Dec 23, 2006

Based on what I have seen so far, Fenix seems to use thread-lock as a way to tune in the focus.

A lot of components come together to locate the emitter in the reflector, and with all the tolerances something is needed to make a consistent product.

With the AA lights, they put a dab of thread lock inside the head and turn the pill down inside until it reaches position The epoxy cures and locks the focus.

With the AAA lights, they put the dab on the outside of the emitter collar. This is the "mid" section if you consider the reflector assembly is front and the battery tail is back. This is why the emitter collar is not always turned down fully into the reflector, depending on which torch you pick up. The earlier the emitter enters the reflector, the more of a gap they have to leave.

Knowing this, your can use this to your advantage. When you put your emitter in, it will probably focus at a different point than the stock emitter. Do the same thing Fenix does, tweak your beam to the focus you want and lock it into place.

perfectname · Dec 24, 2006

Well, it looks like I got one with a lot thread-lock. All I've been able to accomplish is tearing up the PCB a bit :banghead:

. At least it still works.

ViReN, I agree with you about potted lights

I think the main reason they do it is probably just to keep it from inadvertently coming apart.

MarNav1 · Jan 9, 2007

The right plier's seem to help alot, although it's no guarantee. Knipex makes lot's of
styles. A snap ring plier isn't alway's what's needed.

alantch · Jan 26, 2007

EngrPaul said:
I just opened mine with a modified needle-nose pliers. You round off the very tips of the nose smaller and smaller until it fits in the two holes in the PCB. Then you set the civictor on a piece of paper on it's reflector opening side. Hold the needle-nose pliers in place and turn the head on the piece of paper.

I found there was a little bit of pink epoxy or loctite on the first thread near the battery.

I drilled the two holes out more cleanly so that it would be easier next time.

Good luck.

EDIT: I just did a L1T the same way, but it was more difficult to turn an also to engage the holes. I drilled the holes out while it was in the head, no problem. But then when I finally got the thing to turn, it was the PCB detached from the brass pill! I desoldered the board, and lo and behold, two more holes in the brass pill below. After an extreme amount of effort, I was able to get the brass pill out. But there was a lot of clean-up to do! I've reassembled all the components with fresh wires etc and everything works fine. Now I'm ready to install the the SSC P4s in both Civictor and L1T when they arrive...

EngrPaul, how's your CiVictor & L1T project with the SSC P4s coming along? Any progress so far?

EngrPaul · Jan 26, 2007

alantch said:
EngrPaul, how's your CiVictor & L1T project with the SSC P4s coming along? Any progress so far?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/149000

Handlobraesing · Jan 26, 2007

With a pneumatic chisel and a vise clamp.

carbine15 · Jan 26, 2007

doesnt heating the locktite make it loosten up a bit. I heard you should place the head in a plastic bag and boil it for a few minutes to melt the locktite.

Handlobraesing · Jan 26, 2007

carbine15 said:
doesnt heating the locktite make it loosten up a bit. I heard you should place the head in a plastic bag and boil it for a few minutes to melt the locktite.

You could also bake it in a toaster-oven (or the big oven if you feel like wasting power) at the lowest temperature setting to soften it.

EngrPaul · Jan 26, 2007

A hair dryer can heat up the outside without heating up the inside quite as much. This will cause the head to expand away from the pill.

I don't like forcing moisture into the electronics, it can cause problems later, including at soldering (the pc board can delaminate). That's my preference.

If you remove the battery terminal board and put pliers into the holes down inside the brass pill, be careful not to shove them too hard. The emitter board is just beyond those holes.

opening a civictor?

connortn

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connortn

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ViReN

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ROVER

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dapyro

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perfectname

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EngrPaul

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perfectname

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ViReN

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perfectname

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MarNav1

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alantch

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Handlobraesing

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carbine15

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