Modified L1/2P w/ SSC P4

I just swapped out the luxeon emmiter in my Fenix L2P (with L1P battery tube) for an SSC P4 t-bin (to be upgraded to a U-bin when it arrives after the new year). With the SSC it seems to be brighter, but not dramatically so. The beam patttern is almost identical to the beam with the lux emmitter. The spot seems slightly more diffuse, but not by much. I cannot compare a before and after beamshot because I forgot to take a before (oops). I will post a photo comparison between my L1P-P4 and my 2AA MiniM*g LED sometime in the next week, as that is the only other common light I have that is comparable.

I believe that the driver in the L1P is a constant current power supply at about 300mA or so... (does anyone know for sure) If this is true, and since the SSC has a lower Vf, the power consumption (Watts) would be lower for the new configuration. So, all other things being equal (even if the light output were the same) the batteries should now last longer.

A word of warning for anyone else who attempts this mod... The slug on the SSC P4 is connected to the anode. The brass heatsink in the head of the L1/2P is connected to the (-) side of the battery. In order to make this work I used a VERY THIN (1.5 mil) piece of mylar cut into a donut shape (0.310" OD, 0.25" ID) with thermal grease to "fill the donut." This creates a electrically isolated thermally conductive barrier. Before doing this you must verify that your thermal paste is an insulator.

Good luck and happy modding!!!

Does the slug of the P4 fit into the heatsink? I thought it was larger than a luxeon? Did you modify the reflector at all?

Try it with 3volts and see how it performs...

The SSC P4 slug fits into the heatsink perfectly. The metallic slug itself is larger in diameter, but the plastic carrier is the same diameter as the Lux. The heatsink for the L1/2P has a recessed portion where the whole plastic LED body fits down into. Since the two are the same basic shape it fits fine. No modification is required... The reflector opening is also a perfect fit. The only modification that was required was to add the mylar washer and thermal paste.

With two alkalines (3V) the light is substantially brighter. Because I typically use this as an EDC I prefer the single cell tube for my purposes.

EngineeringGuy said:

I believe that the driver in the L1P is a constant current power supply at about 300mA or so... (does anyone know for sure) If this is true, and since the SSC has a lower Vf, the power consumption (Watts) would be lower for the new configuration. So, all other things being equal (even if the light output were the same) the batteries should now last longer.

Click to expand...

L1P has a voltage booster. It is the L2P that has a constant current driver

EngineeringGuy said:

In order to make this work I used a VERY THIN (1.5 mil) piece of mylar cut into a donut shape (0.310" OD, 0.25" ID) with thermal grease to "fill the donut."

Click to expand...

:huh2: I'm not getting where you put the mylar and where the donut is.

I guess donut is not a very good description. I created a 1.5 mil thick washer out of a mylar tape using two different sizes of punches. The washer is about the same diameter as the slug on the bottom of the LED. I placed the washer between the L2P heatsink and the LED slug and I filled the hole in the middle of the washer with a electrically non-conductive thermal paste.

Additionally, mine is the L2P head with a L1P body on it, so it is current regulated. That explains why it is not substantially brighter, since it is operating at a lower wattage now than before (I*V=W). It does appear somewhat brighter, and it also seems to run longer.

im planning this mod on my civictor stainless steel - i understand the washer and this will help me a lot - so i will do it with the thermal paste - only thing is what are acceptable materials for the washer (what is mylar) and how do you glue it to the pill (or emitter) - what kind of glue wont melt?

alex