Will a single C Li-Ion handle tri Seoul?

I need help!

I'm planning to do my first mag mod, and I'm wondering if a single C cell Li-Ion handle tri Seoul running at 1A? I know that the C cell can handle up to 5A, but I'm totally green when it comes to mag mod. If possible, should I go all series with the right driver board to boost the voltage? or go all parallel with and drive all of them at 1A each and total of 3A? Would heat be an issue?

And last, a suggestion on proper driver board for the desired application please

Thanx

A Fatman from taskled.com lights up three SSCs for me with one protected 18650. I run it at 700ma. I think the guy at taskled.com said that 700ma is like the tops you should run it at that configurtion though.

Check out the shark converter at the Shoppe also, its designed to run multiple LED's.

Ryan

Thanx for the reply guys, I read about the Fatman but like mentioned, the fatman input current can't be over 2.2A where driving 3 SCC with one C Li-Ion at 1A needs over 3A. hmmmmm Shark might be the better way caz it can handle up to 4A? Anyone have experience?

Hi LowTec,

I just completed my first tri-Seoul mod with the leds connected in parallel and driven by a single C-LiIon in a Mag1C. It's direct driven with a small 0.1 ohm, 1W resistor and the current at the tail-cap was only around 2.2A. I decided to connect in parallel as I didn't have any experience with driver boards. Now that it's working, I am looking for a suitable board as well. Have you decided yet on your board or how you are going to connect your leds?

:thinking:




Click me You could buy one from Litemania....







Benny

Half the fun is building it yourself!

chanamasala said:

A Fatman from taskled.com lights up three SSCs for me with one protected 18650. I run it at 700ma. I think the guy at taskled.com said that 700ma is like the tops you should run it at that configurtion though.

Click to expand...

I run my fatman trilux mag on 2X18650 protected at 1.2A.

Thurmond

The battery should be able to handle it easily.

I'm thinking of doing one with 3 Crees and a FluPIC on each one since FluPICs are on sale at the moment.
Full regulation and every feature you could ask for.

I was going to use a B-Flex but then I have to put them in series and use at least 4 batteries.

AndyTiedye said:

The battery should be able to handle it easily.

I'm thinking of doing one with 3 Crees and a FluPIC on each one since FluPICs are on sale at the moment.
Full regulation and every feature you could ask for.

I was going to use a B-Flex but then I have to put them in series and use at least 4 batteries.

Click to expand...

Are your 3 Crees in parallel? Will using 3 flupics work? Does it mean you need to have separate wires running to each led (i.e. total of 6)?

Someone mentioned the use of a tri-flupic but I have not managed to find any info on this. I was assuming that this tri-flupic is a special flupic with connections for up to 3 leds rather than 3 separate flupics but perhaps I am wrong?

Try a 3X Flupic made for running 3 LED`s in parallel straight off the driver. 3 seperate outputs so each LED has its own positive and a negative going to it from the driver. If using multiple batteries run them in parallel. I believe the standard burst level for this driver is 2.8amps but Kevin can make it lower if you want. He made me 2 for me that are 2.1 amps for burst because I wanted to use a single 18650 Li-on cell.


Ken

Is that 3 FluPIC's on one board? how big is it? How much did he charge you for it?
Looks like I'll have to wait a while for anything special, but what he has in stock
is on sale this week.

The battery can easily handle the current. Heck I got 1x 18650 running that configuration.

As for converter, I'm using a Shark with prototype digital UI daughter board for variable brightness.

Have fun.
Jonathan

AndyTiedye said:

Is that 3 FluPIC's on one board? how big is it? How much did he charge you for it?
Looks like I'll have to wait a while for anything special, but what he has in stock
is on sale this week.

Click to expand...

I believe the board is 3/4" diameter or very close to it anyway??? What can I say but.......

How about a picture of one?

modamag said:

As for converter, I'm using a Shark with prototype digital UI daughter board for variable brightness.

Jonathan

Click to expand...

Is that the board Wayne talked about making a long time ago? Please tell more!

I've installed a Shark with SSCs in series, it was bright, but the shark got smoking hot and I haven't figured out what's the best way to heat-sink the board properly

LowTEC said:

I've installed a Shark with SSCs in series, it was bright, but the shark got smoking hot and I haven't figured out what's the best way to heat-sink the board properly

Click to expand...

Maybe post #54 and #55 made by Wayne about heatsinking the Shark in this thread will help?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/105492&page=2&pp=30

kenster said:

Try a 3X Flupic made for running 3 LED`s in parallel straight off the driver. 3 seperate outputs so each LED has its own positive and a negative going to it from the driver. If using multiple batteries run them in parallel. I believe the standard burst level for this driver is 2.8amps but Kevin can make it lower if you want. He made me 2 for me that are 2.1 amps for burst because I wanted to use a single 18650 Li-on cell.


Ken

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info and the photo of the tri-flupic, Ken! I finally got to see the elusive beast and figured out what it is. Unfortunatly, Kevin has just stated in the "going-away" sales thread that he does not intend to make or sell anymore of the tri-flupics. Perhaps 3 separate flupics may work but it would be difficult to find that much space in a Mag.

I guess I still don't have a solution for a driver for 3 leds in parallel. The Shark only works for 3 leds in series since its max current output is 980mA.

Btw, does anyone know if the single flupic gets hot? Should I epoxy it to the bottom of the emitter heatsink? I assume, component-side facing outwards (i.e. downwards)?

modamag said:

The battery can easily handle the current. Heck I got 1x 18650 running that configuration.

As for converter, I'm using a Shark with prototype digital UI daughter board for variable brightness.

Have fun.
Jonathan

Click to expand...

So you can build a short multi-level tri-seoul 1C utilizing the levels thru your new C tailclicky?

that would be the ultimate.

Pumaman said:

So you can build a short multi-level tri-seoul 1C utilizing the levels thru your new C tailclicky?
that would be the ultimate.

Click to expand...

Yes, it would, wouldn't it... *Glance at Modamag* :candle: