DX U2-Clone battery draw

Hi, what is supposed to be DX U2-Clone battery current draw? mine is around 0.6A is it normal?

Thanks

That's pretty low, something isn't right. I've had 3 of them, 1.7A, 1.5A, and 1.1A.

Nake said:

That's pretty low, something isn't right. I've had 3 of them, 1.7A, 1.5A, and 1.1A.

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that is what i thought, the light is pretty bright though. I measure it using DMM bypassing the tail-switch. Any suggestion on how and what might couse it?

Not much to check. Screw the pill out and see that the soldered wires on the star are good. Look at the contact spring on the convertor The pill gets it's negative connection from it's threads as it screws into the body.
It puts out about 130lm when everything is good. Check it against a light that you know the lumen output of. DMM could be bad.

Email DX about getting a replacement if you can't find anything wrong.

Nake said:

Not much to check. Screw the pill out and see that the soldered wires on the star are good. Look at the contact spring on the convertor The pill gets it's negative connection from it's threads as it screws into the body.
It puts out about 130lm when everything is good. Check it against a light that you know the lumen output of. DMM could be bad.

Email DX about getting a replacement if you can't find anything wrong.

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looks nothing wrong with solder nor emitter might be loose contact. But bad DMM also could be the culprit (my 2 years old sun just threw it like a toy) will try a spare one.

Thanks for the concern.

Here's something I ran across. I've seen other pictures that show a U2 clone with a driver. I'll post it if I can find it.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/174133

With a driver.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1865881&postcount=65%5Dhere

Measuring current by putting an ammeter in series won't always give an accurate reading, because of the resistance added by the meter. In a direct drive light, that small amount of resistance will make a big difference in the current draw, due to the LED's steep I/V curve. It might not make much difference for other kinds of circuits.

Are you talking about the U2 Clone, which I believe DealExtreme no longer sells, or the EastwardYJ U2-Style light?

there are actually 3 "clone types". two are the 18650 ones with the second one a Q2. The last is a multi-volt 8 mode which I have. I think it's probably one of the first two.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1285

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6923

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4528

I've been talking about the sku 1285.

balazer said:

Measuring current by putting an ammeter in series won't always give an accurate reading, because of the resistance added by the meter. In a direct drive light, that small amount of resistance will make a big difference in the current draw, due to the LED's steep I/V curve. It might not make much difference for other kinds of circuits.

Are you talking about the U2 Clone, which I believe DealExtreme no longer sells, or the EastwardYJ U2-Style light?

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Yes it is the SKU 1285. How to accurately measure current draw at the battery without being to complicated?
Nice to know that i may doing something wrong which is ironic

Edit: FYI. I am having problem unscrewing the pill it seems to be glued with red thingy. Threadlock?

rizky_p said:

I am having problem unscrewing the pill it seems to be glued with red thingy. Threadlock?

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None of mine were glued, but were hard to get started out. There is a big fat O-ring on the underside of the pill that causes resistance on the threads when it's compressed. I used needle nose pliers, either gripping the pill or putting the ends in between the star "points" worked for me.

Mine measures at about 1.33 amp draw at the battery and the pill unscrewed easily, no threadlock. I'd recommend return the light getting a new one. But Hong Kong is a bit far away.

Not necessary to return to China, DX has a FL address to take returns once you get an okay.

rizky_p,

You can have my driver if you want it. I won't ever use it for anything and it's in good condition, it did put 1190 something to the led. Just send me a pm, and I'll send it to you. My EYJ light is modded beyond recognition and it has another driver/emitter now. And the head part was glued on mine, the brass pill wasn't.
Stefan

Managed to remove the pill which look like a brass using needle nose plier as adviced. Indeed no glue. I prefer not to send it back to DX because of the shipping prices, better get another one IMHO. I live in Asian country about 4 hour flight but still the shipping price will be quite expensive. I feel sad that mine only draws 0.6 at full battery charge but the weird thing is it is actualy as bright as my other similar sized lights could there be a newer version of the driver? i'll contact DX later to ask regarding my problem with the driver.

Thanks

rizky_p said:

How to accurately measure current draw at the battery without being to complicated?

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Put a low-value resistor (0.01 ohms) in series with the battery and measure the voltage across it. Again, I don't know if the circuit in your light is sensitive to the voltage drop that a typical ammeter will introduce.