Help! remora sharks!

I recieved my shark and remora board today, and it is so small I can't even see where I am supposed to solder onto it. There is no way I can do this! Hey Don Shock, I think I may have to road trip it out to your water world and have someone skilled tackle this. If I try, I will end up with I glob of solder on a charred green board.
In addition, I have no instructions on how to hook up the switch. I get the pic showing power in and ground- but, I thought I needed a momentary to toggle this thing, and having a constant hot to the driver. I am kinda lost. Is there a tutorial on cpf, or instructions anywhere? HELP!

I quit doing these after killing two Sharks and a Remora. I never was able to find out what went wrong. I did a group of mods all at the same time and done the same way. Some came out fine, but some ended up with $50 in dead drivers. Now I just stick with the stock Shark drivers and haven't had a problem since.

But here's a picture showing the connections needed:

The YELLOW is just a jumper wire between the two pads.
The BLUE and GREEN can be small jumper wires going from the Shark below to the Remora above. The holes will line up when you set the Remora on top of the Shark. Make sure to wire up the LED output leads first since the Remora will limit access to these holes once installed.
The RED is a wire that supplies power from the Shark to the Remora.

And the stock Mag switch works fine, or any other normal clicky. You don't need a momentary switch, the Remora changes modes as the power to the entire driver is turned on and off quickly. Just lightly press the switch to turn it ON and then click it off momentarily to switch modes. When you get to the mode you want, click it all the way in to stay there. Doing full clicks On and Off quickly works too. If you are using this in a different light that has a reverse clicky that works too. To change modes you momentarily turn the switch OFF and back on by pushing down the button lightly after you initially turn the light on.

THANK YOU, Don. That is very useful info. I think I know how to solder that small. My co-worker has a magnifying lens and light and fingers, plus he has some training in soldering. I may have to buy a new soldering iron, since mine is way too hot for something like this - 60 watts!
Now, I will have to decide if I want to use the stiff wires clipped off of a resistor, or use regular 22 gauge wire to make it possible to thermo epoxy the driver and pot board across from each other in the mag tube. I will be driving 5 q5's, so I guess I need to really consider heat dissipation.
Thanks again Don, and the pic was excellent.

Thank you, Don, I have one setting waiting to solder too! This definately helps.

Watch out, Beetle...

I had no luck getting 22 ga. solid wire to fit in the shark/remora connection holes (blue/green). I needed to go with 24 ga. solid for those 2 connections, but 22 ga. worked for the single (red) connection; that hole is a little bigger.

The 4 cree 3D mag I did works quite well...I'm happy with the results.

Good luck!

Firecop said:

Watch out, Beetle...

I had no luck getting 22 ga. solid wire to fit in the shark/remora connection holes (blue/green). I needed to go with 24 ga. solid for those 2 connections, but 22 ga. worked for the single (red) connection; that hole is a little bigger.

The 4 cree 3D mag I did works quite well...I'm happy with the results.

Good luck!

Click to expand...

Thanks again, I have solid phone wire scavenged from PBX cables that is very thin and should do it. Once set into place you think that the solid will take the use or abuse without breaking down? I would think so.
BTW, Firecop, I had another delay besides the tedious soldering, while boring the host I set the axis off a bit and went through the side of the host. When shortened it will make a fine 2.5D 4-bored host for something.

It's never easy, is it? When I bored out my 2D to host an 8AA>2D battery case, I used a cylinder hone from an auto parts store. It took 45 minutes, but since I don't have a lathe or press, it was the best I could do.

As to the wire you're going to use...I can't answer that. My knowledge comes solely from these forums and the people therein.

Good luck

Don the Remora's are fun to solder The hardest part I found was removing the trim pot I actually tore up a trace on the board but was able to add a wire to correct the problem.

Mac

I was unable to fit 24 ga wire into the remora. I am on hold until I get new wire- should I use 24 solid wire, or 26 regular wire?:duh2: