nitnapz
Enlightened
aside from making a rocker switch fit, what are my options for just using the stock mag switch to handle high current. would it make that much of a difference in resistance or hazard ?
stock mag switch and high temp socket for high amp currents in torch or 19.2 osram 58
- Thread starter nitnapz
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jimjones3630
Flashlight Enthusiast
Don't know 19.2 osram 58.
I have used a stock mag switch with bi pin socket running a bulb with over 11 amps. it smoked before could get it turned off.
upon autopsy found the contact ring between upper and lower switch contacts was burnt black.
the fix was to lay down a thin coat of solder around the outside of the ring. The first time I seen this done was on another modder's switch. Now on all of my mods I lay a thin coat of solder on both upper and lower contacts and on the contact ring. Then direct wire the bi pin or kiu socket to the upper and lower contacts.
With that done now run bulbs with 11 or more amps without smoking nor notice any adverse effects. pak ceramic insulation above the switch to limit it's exposure to added heat from the bulb.
jim
I have used a stock mag switch with bi pin socket running a bulb with over 11 amps. it smoked before could get it turned off.
upon autopsy found the contact ring between upper and lower switch contacts was burnt black.
the fix was to lay down a thin coat of solder around the outside of the ring. The first time I seen this done was on another modder's switch. Now on all of my mods I lay a thin coat of solder on both upper and lower contacts and on the contact ring. Then direct wire the bi pin or kiu socket to the upper and lower contacts.
With that done now run bulbs with 11 or more amps without smoking nor notice any adverse effects. pak ceramic insulation above the switch to limit it's exposure to added heat from the bulb.
jim
nitnapz
Enlightened
well. it's a 3d form factor battery pack with gives 19.2v and im never too sure about the osram bulb, but it's looking like my next build. this or the torch is up around 225ea
cnjl3
Enlightened
Wow!
I almost tried that once upon a time - but the contact ring looked so damn fragile that I never tried it. It is good to know that it is solderable. I know that some CPF members swear by FETS but what I dont like about FETS is that they continue to suck the juice out of the battery pack unless you add yet another cut off switch. Thank you for the info.
I almost tried that once upon a time - but the contact ring looked so damn fragile that I never tried it. It is good to know that it is solderable. I know that some CPF members swear by FETS but what I dont like about FETS is that they continue to suck the juice out of the battery pack unless you add yet another cut off switch. Thank you for the info.
jimjones3630
Flashlight Enthusiast
Your welcome,
I find have to take it apart once in awhile to clean the arking off but it works.
jim
I find have to take it apart once in awhile to clean the arking off but it works.
jim
Wow!
I almost tried that once upon a time - but the contact ring looked so damn fragile that I never tried it. It is good to know that it is solderable. I know that some CPF members swear by FETS but what I dont like about FETS is that they continue to suck the juice out of the battery pack unless you add yet another cut off switch. Thank you for the info.
Get something like this:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/181866&highlight=soft
That's got the FET switch. Installing that board is much simpler than trying to fit a rocker switch in there, in my opinion. Works fine for me with a 64458 bulb, but I did blow one with the battery pack literally hot off the charger. One hour later; no problem. It's bright bright bright but it gets hot hot hot quick quick quick. Still quite the attention getter.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/181866&highlight=soft
That's got the FET switch. Installing that board is much simpler than trying to fit a rocker switch in there, in my opinion. Works fine for me with a 64458 bulb, but I did blow one with the battery pack literally hot off the charger. One hour later; no problem. It's bright bright bright but it gets hot hot hot quick quick quick. Still quite the attention getter.
cat
Enlightened
"Upper and lower contacts" - are those the clips or the cups on each end of the spring (the big spring)?
Also, while we're here... the earth contact strip - that the grub screw runs through? Does it go up alongside the spring?
(Mine got bent when I pulled out the blue part of the switch [for the first time] and I don't know where it's supposed to go.)
Also, while we're here... the earth contact strip - that the grub screw runs through? Does it go up alongside the spring?
(Mine got bent when I pulled out the blue part of the switch [for the first time] and I don't know where it's supposed to go.)
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cat
Enlightened
What was the pack voltage when it blew the bulb?
jimjones3630
Flashlight Enthusiast
Upper and lower contacts makes contact with the switch contact ring when the switch button is pushed to the on position.
The cups on the top of the big spring makes contact with the bulb holder, the bottom cup makes contact with the upper contact of the switch ring.
The earth contact stripe which goes along side the big spring makes contact with the bulb holder.
The above accounts for most of the resistance in a stock mag switch so I like to get rid of it.
If you don't like FET a stock switch can be modded to very very low resistance.
Don't recall if you mentioned how 64458 bulb is connected. If used a Gy 6.35 bi-pin adaptor, or kiu type socket either can be wired direct to the switch bypassing the big spring. Taking out that springs reduces 2 unnessary contacts in the circuit.
One lead from the kiu or one that is soldered onto the bi-pin can bring down to solder it on the upper contact ring. The other lead from the kiu or bi-pin solder to ground, I like to use the "JimmyM" strap. Google will bring it up.
One more contact in the switch circuit can be elimenated by soldering a lead from lower switch contact to the battery pos. Tin up the lower switch contact before reassembling the blue part of the switch and drill a hole through battery positive spring up through the metal strip which makes contact with the now tinned up contact. once the big blue is reassembled with the body if drilled hole correctly can see the tinned up contact through the hole.
Now solder lead to tinned up contact and the other end to either the pos battery spring or a piece of copper to make contact with the battery pos.
The cups on the top of the big spring makes contact with the bulb holder, the bottom cup makes contact with the upper contact of the switch ring.
The earth contact stripe which goes along side the big spring makes contact with the bulb holder.
The above accounts for most of the resistance in a stock mag switch so I like to get rid of it.
If you don't like FET a stock switch can be modded to very very low resistance.
Don't recall if you mentioned how 64458 bulb is connected. If used a Gy 6.35 bi-pin adaptor, or kiu type socket either can be wired direct to the switch bypassing the big spring. Taking out that springs reduces 2 unnessary contacts in the circuit.
One lead from the kiu or one that is soldered onto the bi-pin can bring down to solder it on the upper contact ring. The other lead from the kiu or bi-pin solder to ground, I like to use the "JimmyM" strap. Google will bring it up.
One more contact in the switch circuit can be elimenated by soldering a lead from lower switch contact to the battery pos. Tin up the lower switch contact before reassembling the blue part of the switch and drill a hole through battery positive spring up through the metal strip which makes contact with the now tinned up contact. once the big blue is reassembled with the body if drilled hole correctly can see the tinned up contact through the hole.
Now solder lead to tinned up contact and the other end to either the pos battery spring or a piece of copper to make contact with the battery pos.
Cat:
I don't remember exactly. High 21's, and the pack was nice and warm. At 19.9 (resting voltage on this pack), no flashing.
It's a 16 cell LuxLuthor pack, with the 1500 mah 2/3A batteries, quad bored 3D body (Jesus Hernandez), modified tailcap spring, JimmyM's FET board, Kiu's socket, Fivemega reflector, Borofloat lens-- the usual sort of host.
Took about an hour to figure out how to best mod the switch, to mod it, and solder in the various wires (but I'm highly competent with an iron). I can't imagine trying to pump 10 Amps through the stock switch, but you pays yo' money and you takes yo' chances.
Frankly, the darned thing is so bright accidental ignition concerns me. So I keep the tailcap screwed out enough to break the connection except when I'm using it-- and I do not have to worry about a delayed fire starting in the plastic switch. These things are not toys.
So-- somebody that knows-- should I get one of Fivemega's larger heads?
Pertinax
I don't remember exactly. High 21's, and the pack was nice and warm. At 19.9 (resting voltage on this pack), no flashing.
It's a 16 cell LuxLuthor pack, with the 1500 mah 2/3A batteries, quad bored 3D body (Jesus Hernandez), modified tailcap spring, JimmyM's FET board, Kiu's socket, Fivemega reflector, Borofloat lens-- the usual sort of host.
Took about an hour to figure out how to best mod the switch, to mod it, and solder in the various wires (but I'm highly competent with an iron). I can't imagine trying to pump 10 Amps through the stock switch, but you pays yo' money and you takes yo' chances.
Frankly, the darned thing is so bright accidental ignition concerns me. So I keep the tailcap screwed out enough to break the connection except when I'm using it-- and I do not have to worry about a delayed fire starting in the plastic switch. These things are not toys.
So-- somebody that knows-- should I get one of Fivemega's larger heads?
Pertinax
nitnapz
Enlightened
thats the build i'm looking to do, so what was the outcome on your switch, what was the design like ?
sunspot
Flashlight Enthusiast
JJ, I tried to google JimmyM strap and only came up with "for sales" as part of a light.
Can/Would you post a picture or link? I can't quite follow what parts you are referring to in your post.
I'm trying to fix up my Mag85 and I'm interested in improving the switch.
TIA
Can/Would you post a picture or link? I can't quite follow what parts you are referring to in your post.
I'm trying to fix up my Mag85 and I'm interested in improving the switch.
TIA
jimjones3630
Flashlight Enthusiast
JimmyM's strap is how I know it. Got a switch from him once as part of a lesson plan saw it up close. If using a kiu bring one lead to the neg contact where the "grub screw" makes contact with the body. solder the neg lead to a piece of metal over that contact. Remove some of the anodizing from the point the screw will make contact.
reduces resistance increasing vbulb. Thanks JimmyM
reduces resistance increasing vbulb. Thanks JimmyM
jimjones3630
Flashlight Enthusiast
The above pic shows a kiu socket and the same wiring can be done if using a bi-pin adaptor. Northern Lights has a very details tutorial post on permenate wiring a bi pin direct to the switch.
The one mod that reduces the most resistance is the upper spring as AWR points out in this fix.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/99710
The one mod that reduces the most resistance is the upper spring as AWR points out in this fix.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/99710
sunspot
Flashlight Enthusiast
JJ, Thank you so much. I'm off for the soldering iron now.
jimjones3630
Flashlight Enthusiast
Nitnapz, I don't understand your question.
I cut the metal finger (that touches the ring when switch is depressed) so that the switch connects to +, but does not pass current on to the bulb. That path no longer exists, and I soldered a wire to the cut "finger" to attach to the switch input on the circuit board.
Incidentally, for this kind of wiring (low current), wirewrap wire is the way to go. Buy a roll of it, and a wirewrap tool (with the stripper built into the tool). That's the thinnest, easiest to work with wire for low current applications. Being a solid conductor, it's easy to solder on to springs and other parts.
If you are unfamiliar with the ancient art of wirewrap, do a search. It's very useful sometimes, even now.
Pertinax
I cut the metal finger (that touches the ring when switch is depressed) so that the switch connects to +, but does not pass current on to the bulb. That path no longer exists, and I soldered a wire to the cut "finger" to attach to the switch input on the circuit board.
Incidentally, for this kind of wiring (low current), wirewrap wire is the way to go. Buy a roll of it, and a wirewrap tool (with the stripper built into the tool). That's the thinnest, easiest to work with wire for low current applications. Being a solid conductor, it's easy to solder on to springs and other parts.
If you are unfamiliar with the ancient art of wirewrap, do a search. It's very useful sometimes, even now.
Pertinax
nitnapz
Enlightened
well, you described the build and how you modded the switch, i just understood that you modded the stock to withstand >10amps. i thought that you improvised with installing a different switch than the magstock.
Fulgeo
Enlightened
Was curious how much the stock switch can take amp wise?
I have had no problem with A1111, A1185, ROP Hi, and 5761. I have been under 5.5 amps with these (G4) lamps with no problems. Should we be talking watts thru the switch perhaps? To try the Osram (G6.35) lamps I had planned on a switch mod or MOSFET solution. Was curious what the stock switch can handle and still be considered reliable?
I have had no problem with A1111, A1185, ROP Hi, and 5761. I have been under 5.5 amps with these (G4) lamps with no problems. Should we be talking watts thru the switch perhaps? To try the Osram (G6.35) lamps I had planned on a switch mod or MOSFET solution. Was curious what the stock switch can handle and still be considered reliable?
Fulgeo
Enlightened
Removed Dup.
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