Problem fitting Malkoff in a G2L

Niconical

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Hello.

I just got a Malkoff M60 LF, and I have a problem fitting it in a G2L.
I particularly want to solve the problem as I have another G2L which is also destined for a Malkoff.

Putting it in a 6P, it just "drops in", gravity taking the rim of the M60LF to level with the end of the 6P, but with the G2L, it doesn't quite fit, maybe a millimeter or 2 gap.

So, when I then put the bezel back on, there is a similar gap between bezel and body.

However, I get the feeling that if I push quite firmly on the Malkoff, I could get it to seat all the way in. I haven't tried that yet though as I assume if it works it will be very hard to get out again.

I also looked at o-rings. 1 just under the rim of the Malkoff so it sits on that rather than sitting direct on the body of the light, then another round the body of the light to fill the gap between bezel and body.

Unfortunately though because of the 4 square points around the threads on the body, there would be contact between body/o-ring/bezel, but there would also still be 4 gaps. I'm also not sure about the heat having a an o-ring directly on the drop-in.

So, options, opinions please.

1: "Encourage" the Malkoff to sit flush, and assume it is there for good.

2: Use O-rings and just accept the 4 little gaps.

3: Something else....?

Thank you :)
 

bullfrog

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I have about a 1mm gap on my C2's with Malkoffs - I dont think its a big deal.

There have been a bunch of threads on this and it seems that you can just put an oring in to fit the gap or just leave it.

I remember a thread where a CPF user used a dremel to actually file down the Malkoff to fit better... if you're feeling adventurous.
 

Niconical

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I have about a 1mm gap on my C2's with Malkoffs - I dont think its a big deal.

There have been a bunch of threads on this and it seems that you can just put an oring in to fit the gap or just leave it.

That's interesting for 2 reasons.

Firstly, my M60 fits perfectly in my C2, so luckily I don't have the issue there.

Secondly, about the gap with the G2L. It doesn't bother me, I just assumed that because of those 4 "pegs" at the bezel end of the body, you can actually see up into the threads. So, would there be any water issue there, or would the stock o-ring and the threads protect it just the same as if there were no gap?

Also, with the Malkoff not quite slotting in, when the bezel does go down, the Malkoff seems to scrape around slightly, so I might just accept the gap, but put an o-ring on the Malkoff. Would that be ok from a heat point of view?

EDIT: Closer inspection of the G2L body shows that after those 4 "pegs" is the main o-ring, so once the bezel is past the start of the pegs, the seal is made, regardless of the bezel reaching all the way down.

So, unless anyone thinks forcing the Malkoff down is a good idea, I'm swaying towards the o-ring idea. Still concerned about the heat though, is an o-ring ok in direct contact with the body of a Malkoff?
 
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Gene43

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The head end of the G2 battery tube is slightly flared to accept the brass end of the M60. If you force the M60 into the flare it won't be there for good. It will still pop out quite easily. The O-Ring shouldn't be necessary to fill the gap.

Thanks, Gene
 

LumenMan

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The head end of the G2 battery tube is slightly flared to accept the brass end of the M60. If you force the M60 into the flare it won't be there for good. It will still pop out quite easily. The O-Ring shouldn't be necessary to fill the gap.

Thanks, Gene

Now that's customer service folks ! Even at this late hour, assistance is always available. Gene & Cathy never cease to amaze me :)
 

Niconical

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I have only had limited dealings with the Malkoffs, and by that I mean the people, not the drop-ins, just a few emails, but from what I have seen of them they are very good, both at making the drop-ins, and supporting the customer.

Just yesterday I was informed that a purchase of 2 x M60L is on the way, even though they mentioned they would be out of town this week.

When they arrive I will have a grand total of....

C2 with a M60
G2 with a M60LF
6P with a M60L
G2 with a M60L

Not much by the amounts that some of us have, but the collection is growing :)
 

bullfrog

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I have only had limited dealings with the Malkoffs, and by that I mean the people, not the drop-ins, just a few emails, but from what I have seen of them they are very good, both at making the drop-ins, and supporting the customer.

Just yesterday I was informed that a purchase of 2 x M60L is on the way, even though they mentioned they would be out of town this week.

When they arrive I will have a grand total of....

C2 with a M60
G2 with a M60LF
6P with a M60L
G2 with a M60L

Not much by the amounts that some of us have, but the collection is growing :)

That sounds like a great collection to me - enjoy those wonderful lights!!! My C2s with an M60/M60L + FM 34s are pretty close to the perfect lights - in fact they make me question my other stock two cell Surefires.

The outstanding customer service from what is just a classy and professional operation is the icing on the cake - its a pleasure buying from Gene and Cathy.
 

bullfrog

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Someone mentioned on another thread that this gap might help with heat distribution and be advantageous in the end...
 

dougie

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From numerous posts on the subject it appears that the gap is prevelant in some Surefires but not all. On my M60 equipped 6P there is a less than a 1 mm gap which doesn't compromise the water resistance of the light as the O ring is covered. Cosmetically it isn't an issue to me as so few people in the UK have Surefires that no one knows what it should be like to start with!:crackup:

On my alloy bezelled G2Z there is no gap at all using an M60 or M60L. The same is true when I try to fit the Malkoff's to my two G2's. I would assume that there are slight machining differences between some batches of Surefire components that may or may not explain the situation? At any rate follow Gene's advice and there'll be no problem.

Gene & Cathy rock!:thumbsup:
 
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