automotive polisher

Anyone use machines like the one in the link at the bottom, what do you think.

I am looking into getting something, as i have become fixated on a clean truck again




http://www.goestores.com/storename/detailking/dept/74898/ItemDetail-5223891.aspx

why did my photo show up as a link instead as a pic, i thought you could do that with photobucket

Looks promising. You should be able to make your money back with a few quick detailing jobs. The key to a proper machine is low RPM's. Hard to find for cheap.

Stay away from that one!

Get a good rotary buffer, like a makita, dewalt, Milwaukee ect.

http://www.autogeek.net/buffer-polisher.html


http://www.autogeek.net/ma927po.html

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAKI...010QQitemZ200249922804QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://www.youtube.com/user/meguiarsasia

You might wanna go with a DA buffer, hard to burn paint with them.

http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html

well i have a craftsman 8 1/2" orbital http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ortable+Power+Tools&sName=Buffers+&+Polishers.

Someone who i know said to use a wheel, "but if you dont know what you are doing you will f it up"

The Cyclo is a great machine, however...the Porter Cable is also great and less than half the price. Because it's a DA, it's very difficult to actually damage your paint. You may want to visit Detailcity.com. There is alot of great info there.

i checked the site and contrary to what i have heard, they said this, "Do not moisten the pad with water, this can cause some waxes and polymers to become sticky, gooey and hard to remove. " and this, "Do not apply in a circular motion, this could increase the appearance of swirls in the paint." what do you think about that, especially the "do not use circular motion" i always thought thats the way to do it.

well i clayed the tail + 2 wax, The clay took a while,,The stuff works real nice. I'll try to get a pic up. And what was changed in the link i provided to make the pic show.

Yeah, claying takes a long time, but the results are amazing.

In response to CIRCULAR APPLICATION...the theory is, that by wiping in a circular motion, you will actually INDUCE more marring into the paint. The recommended method is apply in the direction of airflow over the car. Simply, apply waxes or sealants in a front to back motion. Also...get past the old thinking of applying a nice thick coat of wax. Apply as thin as possible. You're gonna remove all but 1 to 2 microns of wax, so don't over-apply...THIN IS IN !

ok cool, what about the picture link issue

2000xlt said:

ok cool, what about the picture link issue

Click to expand...

Your truck looks spiffy. No link problem. Try deleting your browser cache if you're still not seeing the picture.

I envy those who can keep their vehicle clean. To me it seems that if it's not raining on my car it's getting covered in pollen, snow, or general road dust from the many road construction projects going on. No point in getting it super clean when it'll be dirty by the very next day. I've resigned myself sadly to seeing my black wagon with a coat of dust over it, but I'll wash it when I'm going to a client's site if I have the time.

I've had the Porter Cable DA polisher for a couple of years. Doesn't get a lot of use, but works great and saves time when I use it. I have five cars though, and it is hard to find the time and energy to keep them as clean as I would like. We do have indoor storage for all of them though, so that helps a lot.

I would not jump to a rotary unless you know what you are doing. You can easily burn or hologram the paint.

I would get a Portal Cable 7424 oribital buffer.

I've had my PC for years and would highly recommend it. With work and a busy schedule I allowed three weeks of tree sap and dirt to get baked on my tonneau cover. Washing would not take it out, claying gave me very little improvement, as soon as I put the PC and some SSR2.5 on it, it was brand new again.

A very good investment.

Side note: I think my neighbor saw me polishing with the buffer and decided to do it on his SUV. He went and got a Walmart buffer with wool pad, Turtle wax rubbing compound, and started to work on his SUV. Between sections he would put the pad face down on the floor, and started on a new section! He was out there in full sun and the rubbing compound caked on!

rail dust


after clay and 2 coats wax


Its better, but there is still some stuff i cant get out of the paint with out using chemical process which will dissolve the "rail dust"

What else could be done, short of using the chemical remover, as i was told its only a matter of time before the "Rail Dust" re appears. This is because the clay is shaving it down and eliminating what you see, it may re-pop, or it may not.

www.detailersclub.com

www.autopia.org

Those are two sites I frequent.

I recommend a PC7424, had mine for approx 6 years. It will make a good finish great but won't turn miracles. I have a Makita 9227C also (4 years or so old) and use it less because I seldom encounter a vehicle that needs that much work, easier just to send it in for a re-paint, lol.

I believe you are out of options. You clay'd the car, that just removes the top, I think Automotive International has a A-B-C step process that has an acid, base, and neutral wash to remove all contaminates from the paint.

A good defense is a good offense. Park away from the railways if at all possible.