SureFire E2DLed is Awesome

Have been using a new E2DL at work for a while now and it is proving to be awesome in use. It fits beside my Buck model 110 sheath perfectly on my work belt. The two mode high/low is useful for walking on low and high is surprisingly brighter than any other light I have except for my Dereelight CL1H with smooth reflector. The CL1H-smooth is great for my works needs but it has a tighter beam (we are talking probably at 200 yards) than the E2DL. I choose the E2DL because it has a more useful spot size and is brighter than the CL1H at my work-useful distances.

The beam is really good for inspecting passing trains at night. It's just wide enough to see the cars from top to bottom at a distance yet reaches 20 car lengths down the train bright enough to see whether the train is derailed or not. Up here in Alberta this is really important as we usually do not have any place to stand away from the trains unless we want to run through a slough or deep ditch and fence... something we must have time to do if things go wrong.

Someone told me the E2DL can digest two rcr123a's without mishap. I have not had the guts to try it yet as the two 123 primaries are still working. A really great flashlight in my opinion. My best yet for train-inspections and work-edc.

You could always get 3.0V rechargeables.

I ran some in my Gladius exclusively and it worked fine. The Gladius isn't meant to be used with anything more than 6V by the way.

So if you feel uneasy about RCRs just get some lower voltage rechargeables.

I was worried about using RCR123's in my beloved E2DL also. However, I have been using both my E2DL and my newly aquired KX2C head with AW RCR123's without incident.

I emailed SureFire to ask them if RCR's could be used without damaging the light but never received an answer to my email.

Anyway my opinion is your OK to use them.

Bill

I just recently got an E2DL and it has quickly become my favorite light!

Can someone recommend a good vendor to use for this flashlight. Perhaps someone is still selling it at the older price, or giving a CPF discount.

+1 i like the E2DL as well looks very nice

The e2dl was the best SF led I have owned. I wish they would make a e2l choice with e1dl's output...because I really don't need the strike bezel.

The E2DL has fast become one of my favorites, if not my absolute favorite, lights among the ones I have and use constantly. It really gives my M60 a run for the money, and the throw always amazes me for it's size.

I'm always amazed at the beam when I turn it on. Fairly clean bright white spot that makes me gawk at it. It certainly is not the perfect light, but it's high up there for me. The crenelations take some getting used to, but I don't mind them now. I just wish I could find a light of the same caliber sans crenelations for travel purposes.

riceboy72 said:

...I just wish I could find a light of the same caliber sans crenelations for travel purposes.

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woodrow said:

...because I really don't need the strike bezel.

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The KX2C head on a black body is a good alternative. Granted, you will lose the dual-output advantage of the E2DL, but you get the same great 120 lumen smooth high beam without the crenelations.



And here it is with a shrouded tailcap (Z68):

H2Orower said:

The KX2C head on a black body is a good alternative. Granted, you will lose the dual-output advantage of the E2DL, but you get the same great 120 lumen smooth high beam without the crenelations.

http://imageshack.us

And here it is with a shrouded tailcap (Z68):

http://imageshack.us

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Who says it needs to be on a black body. I kinda like mine.

Hitthespot said:

Who says it needs to be on a black body. I kinda like mine.

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Yup, I stand corrected. It doesn't necessarily have to be a black body.

I'm quite fond of my E2DL. Particularly because it is a single stage (high only) version

Regards,
Tempest

Hi, I am considering purchasing an E2DL but I have a question about the interface. I see on SureFire's site the following description:

Two-stage tailcap switch: press for momentary-on at high setting, release and press again (within two seconds) for momentary-on at low setting; click for constant-on at high-setting, click off and click on again (within two seconds) for constant-on at low setting

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I don't understand this at all. A simple user interface is one of my primary requirements in a flashlight. Would anyone mind breaking this down barney style? I'm sure it's not as complicated as it sounds (or at least I hope it's not because otherwise I really like the features on the E2DL).

The E2DL goes to the high level when first turned on. To use the low level, turn off and then turn on again within a couple of seconds. If the light is off for more than 3 seconds or so, it resets so that it will be on high again the next time it is turned on.

asdalton said:

The E2DL goes to the high level when first turned on. To use the low level, turn off and then turn on again within a couple of seconds. If the light is off for more than 3 seconds or so, it resets so that it will be on high again the next time it is turned on.

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Thank you so much, that does make sense.

I didn't mean to hijack this thread, but I do have another question about the E2DL. I have learned that there is no standard way of measuring the lumens output in any flashlight. Some manufacturers measure it at the emitter and others measure it out the front. And, I've learned that even if using the same measuring method and the lumens are exactly equal, there are many other factors that affect the nature and quality of the light (spill, throw, rings, etc).

So, I read that the E2DL has a 5 lumens output in general mode. But, I'm wondering, would anyone be able describe how this 5 lumens looks? Is it roughly the same as , say, a 20 lumen output as measured by other manufacturers? Thanks!

Surefire's advertised lumens are pretty accurate, even understating the output in many cases. They rate lumens out the front of the flashlight, which is the way it should be done.

If the 5-lumen level on a Surefire light is as bright as another manufacturer's "20 lumen" level, then that manufacturer is lying by a factor of 4.

With the availability of high-output white LEDs for almost 2 years now, there seems to be less temptation to advertise unrealistic lumen numbers. I don't have hard data to prove this, but one example that comes to mind is Inova. Their first generation of T-series lights in 2004 claimed almost double the lumens that they actually delivered. The 2007 K2 versions were exaggerated but not as greatly. Now the 2008 K2-TFFC versions are pretty close to reality.

Amen to the E2DL :thumbsup:

I am highly considering one of these lights (e2dl) as well. My question/concern is the high/low feature.

In order to go from high to low, must you fully "click" and turn on the light and then fully turn it off and on again to get to the low?

I assume that if you just partially engage the light to "blip" with it (momentary on), that it will not switch to low? I wanted to be sure before I purchased it. I would make little sense for it to operate that way. :shakehead

I want to make sure that as I "blip" with the switch that it is not switching modes all the time.

And one more question. For those of you that own one, is it a light that would be comfortable and unobtrusive to carry daily on your belt. Perhaps in one of these? I assume that pocket carry would be out due to all the sharp parts.

http://www.comp-tac.com/catalog/product_info.phpcPath=23&products_id=30

Thanks

HotPursuit said:

In order to go from high to low, must you fully "click" and turn on the light and then fully turn it off and on again to get to the low?

I assume that if you just partially engage the light to "blip" with it (momentary on), that it will not switch to low?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Correct.

Wow, that was quick. Thanks a bunch.