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Sold/Expired Have your Q3 made into a 2 stage poor man's Sundrop (high CRI!)-I can supply the host

mudman cj

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Dec 14, 2005
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Where corn and pigs are grown unimpeded by trees
This light uses the high CRI Nichia 083 LED. With an output similar to that of the sun, it renders colors beautifully and also gives better depth perception and edge definition IMO. It excels at close quarters, but is still effective at close ranges. I have used it outdoors at up to 30 feet, but haven't tried it yet beyond that. By 30 feet the 'hotspot' had pretty much become an even flood beam. It might be useful out to 50 feet or so, but I really need to test this. I plan to take a few beam shots at these distances to show not only the amount of light, but the way it renders depth.

Edit: I measured the distance to that object I conservatively estimated at 30', and it was actually 50'. I am :eek: to admit how far off I was, but :) to report that the light is able to provide illumination at that distance after all. Please keep in mind I don't yet own a lux meter, so I can't confirm that this light is throwing to 50 feet according to one technical definition attributed to Quickbeam which defines throw as the distance at which a light source produces 1 lux. I look forward to opinions from other users about the usable distance for these lights.

Here is a link with more information about this light. Note that my personal light is not for sale. :p

For a short time I am offering these either as a modding service for a Nuwai Q3 or as a complete light. I am doing these all at once in a batch, and may not do any more after this. Prices do not include shipping. Buyer to pay actual shipping costs.

To mod your Q3 and leave it single stage, the cost is $70. To make it two stage is $80.

For me to buy a new Q3 and mod it, the cost is $95 for a single stage light (high only) or $105 for a two stage light.

The two stage mod can have a low setting that meets your preference for output and/or runtime. The two stage reverse clicky switch operates high-low-off.

I use high quality converter boards from the Sandwich Shoppe. They will be preset to drive the LED at nominally 333mA. The Nichia 083 maximum continuous current is 350mA.

Here are the converter board options:
A boost board will work with primaries only, and offers the ability to have a fairly efficient low with the second stage option. The low is variable over pretty much the whole range of output.

A buck board will work with rechargeables, and also offers the ability to have a good range of output for the low setting with fair efficiency.

Edit: due to the fact that an LED with a particularly low Vf would be needed to make this option work, I have decided it would be best if I did not offer this one.

The buck-boost board works equally well with either primaries or rechargeables, but the low has poor efficiency and may not be set over a large range of outputs. This is how mine is configured, and it is great for my needs, but to each their own. I have found that since the high only draws about 350mA, the runtime of the light is on the order of two hours or more (depending on usage of low), and IMO this goes a long way to make up for the poor efficiency on low.

Edit: I feel that I did not fully explain the low efficiency. Even though the efficiency on low is poor, it does still reduce current draw from the battery and therefore extend runtime. The extent to which runtime is extended is nowhere near what can be accomplished with the boost board though. If you want a very long runtime on low then you should choose the boost option and use it with primaries.

The output on high is about 60 lumens of gorgeous light for almost 2 hours on rechargeable or 4 hours on primary. A typical runtime on low is 8-20 hours depending on drive level and battery type. It can certainly vary outside of that range as well, depending upon your preferences.

If you want a light or the modding service, post here with what you would like and I will PM you with paypal info. I have not yet decided how many of these I want to do, so I need to reserve the right to turn some people away by a first come, first serve basis.
 
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mudman cj

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Messages
1,827
Location
Where corn and pigs are grown unimpeded by trees
I have decided to do at most 10 of these. 2 have already been spoken for by PM. So there are a maximum of 8 left.

If you are just interested in buying one or more of McGizmo's Nichia 083 on MCPCB, the price for those is $15 ea plus $5 shipping. PM me if interested.
 

OceanView

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 12, 2006
Messages
416
The buck-boost board works equally well with either primaries or rechargeables, but the low has poor efficiency and may not be set over a large range of outputs.
Very intriguing project you've got here! Thank you for offering it!

Is there a sweet spot for the low setting when using the buck-boost option? Or is it simply worse efficiency the higher you set the resistance?
 

mudman cj

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Messages
1,827
Location
Where corn and pigs are grown unimpeded by trees
In the case of the GD buck/boost board, the efficiency will be poor regardless of the resistor used. The resistor just affects the output level.

Edit: I think I need to explain this better. The GD board output can be throttled back with a resistor, but the battery draw is not then greatly lower than on full output. The runtime increase is there, but not as pronounced as with the boost board. Of course, that is not the only reason to choose to have a low setting on your light.
 
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divine

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
1,840
Location
Virginia
Okay, I've been testing my light.

When I first looked at the emitter, it looked a little bit off center, but I don't notice it in the beam. The beam is very floody. I think it is the floodiest light I own. In my opinion, the beam is ideal for this light.

The solder connections are very clean.

The high reaches to 25 feet easily and the low works very well for up close.

The color temperature is higher than a 5A Q2, the 5A Q2 looks yellowish next to it. This light brings out reds and greens more than the 5A Q2.

I noticed this yesterday when shining it at some different colored text. I can read with this light much better than with a 5A Q2 or a white emitter. I don't know if my eyes have trouble focusing or if there is something with how the light mixes together, but the 5A and the whiter emitters make things look more blurry to my eyes.

I will be carrying this light for quite some time.

Thanks a lot, CJ. :D
 
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