I Know What I Want In A Light - Where To Find It?

Ziemas · Dec 4, 2008

I'm looking for a new light to replace my LD2 as a helmet mounted cycling light. I know pretty much what I would like, after but four days at home ill and on the computer searching I just can't seem to find it. Perhaps I've overlooked something and you can point me into the right direction.

Here's what I would like in a light:

- More of a thrower

- Able to take an AW Protected 18650 cell

- Brighter than a Fenix LD2 Q5

- Strobe

- Able to be used in heavy rain

- At least a two hour runtime to 50%

- Small enough to be mounted on a helmet (<17cm and 200 grams)

- Clicky or reverse on/off switch tail mounted and used for switching modes - No head twist to go from high to strobe

- Preferably no assault crown

- Preferably under $75

Have you seen this light? If so, please let me know what it is!

Thanks.

Z.

mdocod · Dec 4, 2008

< less than
> greater than

I think about the closest recommendation i can think of at this time is The Olight M20 warrier.

Here's how it stacks up in the list:

- More of a thrower
more than a L2D yes, by a decent amount I would imagine, it has a larger reflector.

- Able to take an AW Protected 18650 cell
check

- Brighter than a Fenix LD2 Q5
check

- Strobe
check

- Able to be used in heavy rain
With any light you choose, I highly suggest taking the time to keep the O-rings in good condition, install extra O-rings in any slots available, and put plenty of lube on the O-rings and threads. I would also even suggest trying to fit some beefier O-rings on any flashlight that you are planning on using in a lot of water. Be pro-active about water protection, don't expect any light to come as water-proof as ideal.

- At least a two hour runtime to 50%
check (on an 18650, this light runs pretty much as a direct drive light, so it will steadily diminish in output over about 3 hours to ~50% output).

- Small enough to be mounted on a helmet (>17cm and 200 grams)
14.4cm long, by 3.6cm diameter at the head, body diameter probably closer to ~2.8cm if I had to guess....
weight 120.5g without the battery. Most 18650s weigh about 45 grams IIRC.

- Clicky or reverse on/off switch tail mounted and used for switching modes - No head twist to go from high to strobe
Based on description, it sounds like this meets your requirements.

- Preferably no assault crown
Sorry, it's all about the ultra-tactical-sooper groove covered spiked look.

- Preferably under $75
Close, $95 plus shipping for the new R2 version...

8/10

not bad...

Henk_Lu · Dec 4, 2008

I also thought about the M20...

You can take that tactical spiky super crown off, it's not fixed. But, if you twist it off, your light looks more afraid and it may have to be, the lens is directly exposed to whatever may come in its way.

You also can get a remote switch for the M20, probably usefull if you wear it on a helmet.

To change the output, you need to twist the head back and forth though, it has a tactical switch which only does momentary on or constant on. Outputs including strobe and SOS have to be changed by twisting the head and it has a memory for the last used mode. That's the most important point I don't really like it for my purpose, I have to twist (with both hands) quite often and it is annoying to have to go through strobe and SOS each time.

A Fenix TK11 may be a better option in that point, but it has no strobe, only normal and high mode, changed by tightening the head...

Ziemas · Dec 4, 2008

Henk_Lu said:
I also thought about the M20...

You can take that tactical spiky super crown off, it's not fixed. But, if you twist it off, your light looks more afraid and it may have to be, the lens is directly exposed to whatever may come in its way.

You also can get a remote switch for the M20, probably usefull if you wear it on a helmet.

To change the output, you need to twist the head back and forth though, it has a tactical switch which only does momentary on or constant on. Outputs including strobe and SOS have to be changed by twisting the head and it has a memory for the last used mode. That's the most important point I don't really like it for my purpose, I have to twist (with both hands) quite often and it is annoying to have to go through strobe and SOS each time.

A Fenix TK11 may be a better option in that point, but it has no strobe, only normal and high mode, changed by tightening the head...

Thanks for the replies so far.

The twisting of the head is a deal breaker as I sometimes switch between high and strobe while riding, and need to be able to do it with one hand on the fly, thus the need for tail cap mode switching.

I'm also leery, although it's not a deal breaker, of assault crowns and striking bezels as the light will be strapped to my head.......

JBorneu · Dec 4, 2008

Take a look at the Jetbeam Jet III offerings. Pro, military and ST are all three designed with throw in mind and it sounds like you'll really like the IBS interface. They all are around your price limit (not counting shipping)

Ziemas · Dec 4, 2008

JBorneu said:
Take a look at the Jetbeam Jet III offerings. Pro, military and ST are all three designed with throw in mind and it sounds like you'll really like the IBS interface. They all are around your price limit (not counting shipping)

Thanks for the recommendation.

The Jet-III M is almost it, despite the high price, but according to the following post the bezel must be turned to switch modes. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2692344&postcount=24

mdocod · Dec 4, 2008

Another idea:

A SolarForce L2 18650 host from lighthound. The assembled one for sale is $25, but it has the cranulated strike bezel, a smooth bezel is another $12, or you can buy the bare body, bezel, and tailswitch as separate units and pay $34... Or you might call them and see if they would swap you a smooth bezel for a spikey one on a completed 18650 host for the regular $25...

This gives you a place to stuff an 18650 that meets every requirement externally. It happens to be SureFire compatible, so there are probably a number of remote switch options that could work as well.

Then just drop in that SolarForce R2-m 5 mode module... also available from light-hound, for $25.... (you may find it cheaper "elsewhere" if you wanted to gamble a bit)..

Here's the catch, I have no idea what sort of performance you could expect on that module when driven by a single li-ion cell. I know it will run in something close to direct drive, with diminishing output as it runs, like any 18650 powered light that is also compatible with higher voltage input from multiple cells, but the question I can't answer is, how HARD it will be driven on a single 18650. Some buck modules like that see to need ~4.5-5V or more just to be operating at full output, while others will run at full output right down to ~3.8V. I'm hoping someone else who owns the module could chime in and give an idea of how much juice it delivers to the LED from 1 li-ion cell..

Ordinarily I would just suggest one of the many ~2.7-4.2V multi-mode modules out there, but that would unfortunately cut into your runtime. To meet your 2+ hour runtime goal, you're going to have to give up regulated constant output and go with a buck-style regulator. (best bet is going to be modules with Q5 and R2 emitters, rated with ~9V maximum voltage inputs).

Total price shouldn't really exceed $75 no matter how you go about getting this set up. And it can be made to meet pretty much every requirement on that list I think.

Eric

Outdoors Fanatic · Dec 4, 2008

Ziemas said:
I'm looking for a new light to replace my LD2 as a helmet mounted cycling light. I know pretty much what I would like, after but four days at home ill and on the computer searching I just can't seem to find it. Perhaps I've overlooked something and you can point me into the right direction.

Here's what I would like in a light:

- More of a thrower

- Able to take an AW Protected 18650 cell

- Brighter than a Fenix LD2 Q5

- Strobe

- Able to be used in heavy rain

- At least a two hour runtime to 50%

- Small enough to be mounted on a helmet (<17cm and 200 grams)

- Clicky or reverse on/off switch tail mounted and used for switching modes - No head twist to go from high to strobe

- Preferably no assault crown

- Preferably under $75

Have you seen this light? If so, please let me know what it is!

Thanks.

Z.

Any Jeatbeam JET-III version. (PRO, M-Military or SD-Standard)

Ziemas · Dec 4, 2008

mdocod said:
Another idea:

A SolarForce L2 18650 host from lighthound. The assembled one for sale is $25, but it has the cranulated strike bezel, a smooth bezel is another $12, or you can buy the bare body, bezel, and tailswitch as separate units and pay $34... Or you might call them and see if they would swap you a smooth bezel for a spikey one on a completed 18650 host for the regular $25...

This gives you a place to stuff an 18650 that meets every requirement externally. It happens to be SureFire compatible, so there are probably a number of remote switch options that could work as well.

Then just drop in that SolarForce R2-m 5 mode module... also available from light-hound, for $25.... (you may find it cheaper "elsewhere" if you wanted to gamble a bit)..

Here's the catch, I have no idea what sort of performance you could expect on that module when driven by a single li-ion cell. I know it will run in something close to direct drive, with diminishing output as it runs, like any 18650 powered light that is also compatible with higher voltage input from multiple cells, but the question I can't answer is, how HARD it will be driven on a single 18650. Some buck modules like that see to need ~4.5-5V or more just to be operating at full output, while others will run at full output right down to ~3.8V. I'm hoping someone else who owns the module could chime in and give an idea of how much juice it delivers to the LED from 1 li-ion cell..

Ordinarily I would just suggest one of the many ~2.7-4.2V multi-mode modules out there, but that would unfortunately cut into your runtime. To meet your 2+ hour runtime goal, you're going to have to give up regulated constant output and go with a buck-style regulator. (best bet is going to be modules with Q5 and R2 emitters, rated with ~9V maximum voltage inputs).

Total price shouldn't really exceed $75 no matter how you go about getting this set up. And it can be made to meet pretty much every requirement on that list I think.

Eric

That's a contender, thanks.

I was looking at the SolarForce website, and was interested in a few lights, but for some bizarre reason they don't give any info on which size batteries their lights take!

JBorneu · Dec 4, 2008

Ziemas said:
Thanks for the recommendation.

The Jet-III M is almost it, despite the high price, but according to the following post the bezel must be turned to switch modes. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2692344&postcount=24

Gee, I wasn't aware of that. I like that light even more now. I love that kind of UI (but I know some people hate it).

Could you tell us why the Jet III pro is not suitable? Runtime in factory preset high seems like more than enough. And if Jetbeam can't give you 2 hours on maximum on a 18650 cell other manufacturers probably also won't be able to give you a max mode that high with 2 hour+ runtime

Ziemas · Dec 4, 2008

JBorneu said:
Gee, I wasn't aware of that. I like that light even more now. I love that kind of UI (but I know some people hate it).

Could you tell us why the Jet III pro is not suitable? Runtime in factory preset high seems like more than enough. And if Jetbeam can't give you 2 hours on maximum on a 18650 cell other manufacturers probably also won't be able to give you a max mode that high with 2 hour+ runtime

Only an hour and a half runtime. I need two hours, and that is one thing which is non-negotiable.

The twisty UI would be just fine if I didn't have the light helmet mounted.

JBorneu · Dec 4, 2008

The runtime of an hour and a half is only true when you program it to maximum. It comes factory programmed to a lower low which gives you more than 2 hours of runtime. I think the factory high (lasting more than two hours) should be plenty bright. Jetbeam's lights are generally a bit brighter on maximum, that's why they have only an hour and a half runtime. The cool thing is that you can program the different stages to any brightness setting you want. So you can choose yourself how much runtime and brightness you want. I think there are three programmable stages in the IBS user interface (don't remember exactly), you could for example program one to factory high, for general riding, one to maximum, for if you need that little bit of extra light, and the last one very low for when you're quiclky checking something on your bike.

What I'm trying to say is this: a light with a runtime of two hours on maximum will be less bright than the Jetbeam on maximum. You want more runtime, there's where the geniousness of the IBS interface comes into play: you can pre-program a couple brightness settings so you can have a max mode, brighter than a torch which would last two hours, for when you really need it, a high mode, bright enough to ride normally, which lasts two and a half to three hours and a low mode, which lasts a couple days and won't blind you when checking a map or getting branches out of your wheel.

Check out the programming features of the IBS interface and Selfbuilt's review of the Jetbeam Jet III pro and how it compares to other lights when you look at runtime and brightness.

mdocod · Dec 4, 2008

Ziemas said:
That's a contender, thanks.

I was looking at the SolarForce website, and was interested in a few lights, but for some bizarre reason they don't give any info on which size batteries their lights take!

Yea, I figure just order it straight from here so there is no confusion:

1x18650 L2

------------------------------

With that said......

Your original requirement for size restrictions was ~17cm length...

17cm is enough room for a 2x18500 powered light... The higher input voltage, along with the high total energy storage, would mean you can run a multi-mode module with a buck regulator at FULL OUTPUT for over 2 hours, rather than having to tolerate diminishing output through the run. Every 1x18650 light on the market with a solid 2+HR runtime that starts off pretty bright is going to be half that bright by the time your ~2-3 hours runtime is spent.

A 2x18500 FM body is around $30 IIRC..., toss on a SolarForce bezel and reverse click tailcap and that 5 mode module I already spoke about. Total price would wind up right around that $75 mark, might be a little over, but this would potentially be a better setup.

Eric

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