ultrafire wf1000 driver problems w/pic

js-lots · Jan 12, 2009

Hello all, I have complained once before about this light and in the meantime have purchase a few other lights. I fixed the soldering problem with the flashlight, however, when I turn on the light it runs bright, drawing about 1.8 ma then seconds later it dims out, running below 1 ma. I assume it is the board in the light. I am a newbie to the flashlight world and modding. So, I would like to place another board in this light and would appreciate suggestions.
1. What should I replace the board with and where can I find it?
2. What other mods will I need to do on this light to put the board in.
3. Any links to how to do it?
4. Anyone know what board that is in the picture?

I have pic below of the board. the flashlight is ultrafire wf1000 mc-e 2 mode. 2x18650. Keep in mind I have looked through the forum as much as possible, but nothing specific to my needs . Thanks for the help

Greg G · Jan 12, 2009

Before anyone can give advice on a driver you will need to provide how the led is wired. All parallel, 2 serial 2 parallel, or all in series.

js-lots · Jan 12, 2009

Greg G said:
Before anyone can give advice on a driver you will need to provide how the led is wired. All parallel, 2 serial 2 parallel, or all in series.

I hope this picture helps. Its pretty messy. thanks. btw.. the board is 21 millimeter

Greg G · Jan 12, 2009

I can't tell from the pic. There's a lot of thermal compound in there. :devil:

I think this thread will be of interest to you.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2700184

After looking at DX's website I *think* this emitter is set up in 2S2P, but I may be wrong.

Wipe off the thermal compound, give us a bette pic of the positive side of the emitter base, and send Stephan a PM. He'll know off the top of his head what to use for a driver.

js-lots · Jan 12, 2009

Greg G said:
I can't tell from the pic. There's a lot of thermal compound in there. :devil:

I think this thread will be of interest to you.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2700184

After looking at DX's website I *think* this emitter is set up in 2S2P, but I may be wrong.

Wipe off the thermal compound, give us a bette pic of the positive side of the emitter base, and send Stephan a PM. He'll know off the top of his head what to use for a driver.

Thanks for the link, Ive found that one before Ive just read so many of them I forget which ones ive seen already.
The dies legs are bridged together making it parallel. Could you lead me in the right direction with stephan?

Greg G · Jan 12, 2009

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5595

That's the link to a KD driver that will work for your parallel MC-E and two 18650's. It's an economy driver and I haven't used it, so can't vouch for it's performance.

What *I* would do is put a Shark Buck 2A from the Sandwich Shoppe in it. Yes, it is more money, and you need to heatsink it, but I've used that board on a P7 light (4 dice in parallel like your light) and it works great.

Here's a link to the thread about it:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211599

Edited to say Shark Buck 2A. I'm not sure that light would handle 3 amps continuous. You *could* buy a Shark Buck 3A and a Remora. Then you'd have 3 levels, and could run the light on high (3 amps) for short periods.

Also, on this kind of light I like to install the driver on its own heatsink well below the LED heatsink, so heat from the LED doesn't migrate into the driver. Possibly you could make, or have made, an aluminum slug that will go into the flashlight tube below the LED heatsink. The driver board will appreciate it.

js-lots · Jan 12, 2009

Greg G said:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5595

That's the link to a KD driver that will work for your parallel MC-E and two 18650's. It's an economy driver and I haven't used it, so can't vouch for it's performance.

What *I* would do is put a Shark Buck 2A from the Sandwich Shoppe in it. Yes, it is more money, and you need to heatsink it, but I've used that board on a P7 light (4 dice in parallel like your light) and it works great.

Here's a link to the thread about it:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211599

Edited to say Shark Buck 2A. I'm not sure that light would handle 3 amps continuous. You *could* buy a Shark Buck 3A and a Remora. Then you'd have 3 levels, and could run the light on high (3 amps) for short periods.

Also, on this kind of light I like to install the driver on its own heatsink well below the LED heatsink, so heat from the LED doesn't migrate into the driver. Possibly you could make, or have made, an aluminum slug that will go into the flashlight tube below the LED heatsink. The driver board will appreciate it.

I went ahead a purchased the board from kd last night. I was looking at the shark buck 2A and 3A but I am concerned that when it arrives I wont know how to install it properly.(especially at that price). I think id be better off with a little more economy first. I am trying to keep the same flashlight tube so if I start building stacks like the one you described I might have trouble getting it to fit correctly. Any more suggestions would be greatly apprectiated. Thanks

js-lots · Jan 12, 2009

Anywhere I can find details to installing those drivers?

Greg G · Jan 12, 2009

I haven't modded one those lights, so I can't give you details, but the KD driver install should be straightforward.It comes with leads for the LED, and the webpage shows the battery positive and negative connections.

Do you know someone with a lathe? That will help.

Maybe you'll get lucky and the new driver drop right in where the old one did.

js-lots · Jan 12, 2009

Greg G said:
I haven't modded one those lights, so I can't give you details, but the KD driver install should be straightforward.It comes with leads for the LED, and the webpage shows the battery positive and negative connections.

Do you know someone with a lathe? That will help.

Maybe you'll get lucky and the new driver drop right in where the old one did.

I hope so, they seem to be the same size. I dont know anyone with a lathe. It looks like a a vice and drill bit for me. should i purchase some thermal compound also, just in case the die comes loose? where a place i can quickly get compound? Greg g thanks for all your help

Greg G · Jan 12, 2009

Since the led is not glued in place I would remove it right away, then install it back on the light engine last. You don't want to risk knocking the dome off. It's easy to do on a Cree. I've ruined several XR-E's myself.

From the picture on KD's website, it looks like you might be able to attach a spring to the positive "nub" on the new driver. It will make contact with the battery the same way your old driver did. Heck, maybe even the spring off the old driver could be sodlered onto the new one.

ultrafire wf1000 driver problems w/pic

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