First Impressions Wurkkos Orange TS10 V2, w RGB Aux and 4000K LEDs

jon_slider

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I received this light free of charge as a review sample. The review is written as an Intro to Anduril, for new users. Im heavily biased. Anduril is my favorite UI, and the TS10 is one of my favorite little lights.

my first steps in setting up the light:

1. I remove the head and remove the orange disc that blocks battery contact during shipping. Then screw the light back together, with the battery inside. The light blinks once to confirm battery contact. I then remove the plastic film that protects the lens.

2. I do 3C from off for battery check, and count the blinks. There were 3 followed by 9 more, that tells me the battery is at 3.9V. I did not recharge, I usually wait to get below 3.6V before recharging.

After it blinked out the voltage one time, the blinks stopped by themselves. This tells me the light arrived in Simple UI, by default.

RGB Aux come w a new Anduril feature that displays the battery voltage as an Aux color for 4 seconds after turning off the light. The Aux then switch to a default of Red at High Brightness.

I like Red aux, but want them to be dim, so I made my first Recommended settings change:

3. I did 7C from off, three separate times, so the Red Aux are now on Low Brightness,

I set the Aux to Low brightness, to preserve battery life. Be aware that if you choose to use High brightness Aux 24/7 (not recommended), the battery can be drained in less than a week.

4. A note of Caution!

I noticed the bezel gap seemed a bit larger than expected.
When I tried to unscrew it, I found I could loosen it easily by hand.

So I made a point of tightening the bezel down firmly.
I took the head off the body and used rubber strap wrenches, if you dont have that tool, I suggest just making it as tight as you can with bare hands, or with rubber gloves on.

That completes the initial setup. The light is now ready to use.


I proceeded to check the min and max outputs in Simple Mode, which arrives in Smooth Ramping by default. My homebrew lumen meter (which reads low on max output), said 0.6 lumens low, and 700 lumens high.

I then switched to Advanced UI by doing 10H from off.
I confirm the light is in Advanced by doing battery check (3C from off), which now repeats in a loop until I clic off.

Low mode in Advanced Smooth Ramping is about 0.01 lumens and maximum is about 920 lumens, which begins to drop quickly.

Next I changed several Advanced mode settings to my Personal preferences. I use this flowchart to keep track of the changes:

UyqXneM.png

1. I disable Turbo.

2. I change the Advanced ceilings to level 100/150, which gives about 340 lumens. Because I like to limit my Anduril lights to an output that is close to Sustainable..

3. I also lower the Simple mode ceiling to 100/150, = about 340 lumens.

note, for Simple mode, setting the ceiling affects both Smooth and Stepped ramping, unlike Advanced mode, which allows separate ceilings, (and floors) for the two ramping styles.

4. From On in Advanced, I change from Smooth Ramping to Stepped Ramping by doing 3C.

5. I change the number of Stepped modes in Advanced, to 12 steps (personal preference). The default is 7 steps in Advanced and 5 steps in Simple mode.

6. I change the Advanced ceiling in Stepped ramping to match the ceiling I use in Smooth ramping.

7. I change the default blinky, which is a flickering "Candle Mode", to the Bike Flasher option, as I find that useful to alert cars when Im a pedestrian in a crosswalk.

8. I change smooth ramping speed to be slower, I like option 3, shown on the above flowchart.

9. I turn off Post Off Voltage display, see the flowchart box titled Voltage Config if you want to do that.

If you want to learn more about the many Optional features available in Anduril, I suggest you read a Manual. Here is an Online version: https://ivanthinking.net/thoughts/anduril2-manual/

Note Anduril is ever evolving, there are a lot of different versions. Not all manuals list the same features, and not all Anduril lights use the same firmware version. There may be things listed, or missing, in a manual that do not match a given light. Same is true for flowcharts.

If you are new to Anduril and have questions I will be happy to help..

Cautions and Safety Warnings:

1. Anduril has no automatic Thermal Step down when using blinkies.

Do not use too high an output with blinkies, when you are not holding the light, or you may burn yourself when you touch it.

2. Do not use Physical Lockout with.a TS10, because if the tailswitch gets pressed it starts a Factory Reset and erases any optional settings you have changed.

3. Do not use Turbo over and over again, as this can cause excess heat that can burn you.

4. Do not use batteries that are 52mm or longer. H10 button top, and some Protected cells are too long and will not allow the light to close all the way, and then the tailswitch wont work properly.

I verified Voltage and Thermal calibration w a DMM and IR Thermometer and confirmed both arrive accurate. No need to change calibration of the Voltmeter and Thermal sensor in the light.

I recommend buying the light with the stock battery.

If you want to buy other batteries, I recommend the extra high capacity Vapcell F12 (both flat top and button top work in the TS10). I also recommend the USB rechargeable 14500 cells from Lumintop, Acebeam, or Skilhunt.

One of the things I especially appreciate about the TS10 are the Ultra Low Firefly outputs.. this is a light that is really well suited for nightstand use. The Aux make it easy to find in the dark, and the low modes are low enough not to ruin our sleep hormones when lighting a path to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

The one physical thing I change on all my TS10's is the pocket clip. My personal favorite is the clip from a Lumintop EDC05. I like that it is very short, so it does not ride on the head when unscrewing to change the battery.

otoh, When you order a TS10, I highly recommend also ordering the alternative long black TS10 clip that Wurkkos sells (similar to an Olight Baton clip).. The long clips work really well on a Hat, and the TS10 has a nice floody beam for close range handsfree tasks..

imo the TS10 is a great little close range Urban EDC light,

Recommended.
 
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KITROBASKIN

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Thanks for this slider.

Doesn't hurt to mention that basic function can be performed rather simply with Anduril. I gave an Emisar to an elderly (responsible) friend. She really likes it; has no idea what it can do beyond hold switch for changing light level, and three click voltage check.
 

vicv

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I got a friend to buy one of these. I noticed immediately the ceiling was set way higher than normal and it got hot very quick. I reduced it to 120/150 like on my v1 but looks like it's still too high by your findings. Didn't have my measuring equipment with me. But it looks pretty close to mine. His is funny though. He ordered 4000k but clearly got 6000k as it's quite cool. But on turbo when it got quite hot, the beam went to 4000k. I watched it change like a switch. No idea what's going on
 

cave dave

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Nice brief setup guide / review. This light is great but definitely needs some setup.

PS don't you need to switch to advanced mode before step 3. turn down Aux? (That's the first thing I do as well)
 

vicv

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Nice brief setup guide / review. This light is great but definitely needs some setup.

PS don't you need to switch to advanced mode before step 3. turn down Aux? (That's the first thing I do as well)
No. Bright aux for the win. But you don't need to be in advanced mode to change aux brightness
 

Monocrom

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At this point, we're going to have to organize a CPF Retreat into the mountains of Colorado for a full-on seminar to completely understand how the U.I. works. Six hours later, we can do some skiing.
 

iacchus

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I still don't have an Andy light. This'll fix that I suppose.
And like most labyrinthian settings, I'll spend way too long to set it up like my other lights and then completely forget how it works from then on.

I do wish there was some sort of unified standard that they could at least offer as a drop-in, quick access mode for all these drivers. Something straightforward w/ no disco. The rest of those options can be behind the hundred clicks.
 

jon_slider

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PS don't you need to switch to advanced mode before step 3. turn down Aux?
not any longer, the version of Anduril on the Orange TS10 V2 allows changing Aux from Simple UI also.
we can do some skiing.
did that today ;-)
Im the snowboarder in front of the Skier

Something straightforward w/ no disco.
the only way to get to Disco is 3H from Off

Anduril is as simple as, clic on clic off

or from off,
hold the button and the output ramps up, release at desired output, clic off

options that constrain the lowest and highest outputs are, optional ;-)

option to switch from Smooth ramping to Stepped ramping is very easy to do on the fly (3C from On)

the UI has built in LVP which includes automatic step downs to alert the operator that the battery is getting low (Similar to an HDS), and there is Thermal step down to prevent overheating, no user inputs required

option to check battery voltage is optional ;-)
 
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jon_slider

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I do wish there was some sort of unified standard that they could at least offer as a drop-in, quick access mode for all these drivers.
from the manual:

Quick Start
-----------

After putting a battery in the light and tightening the parts together,
the light should quickly blink once to confirm it has power and is now
operational. After that, basic usage is simple:

- **Click** to turn the light on or off.
- **Hold** the button to change brightness.
- **Release and hold again** quickly to change brightness the other way.

That is all the user needs to know for basic use
 

iacchus

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from the manual:

Quick Start
-----------

After putting a battery in the light and tightening the parts together,
the light should quickly blink once to confirm it has power and is now
operational. After that, basic usage is simple:

- **Click** to turn the light on or off.
- **Hold** the button to change brightness.
- **Release and hold again** quickly to change brightness the other way.

That is all the user needs to know for basic use
And that would be fine if andi was on all the lights.
My static here isn't the complexity of the system, but that it is just one of the several competing complex systems.

I'm fine with a crazy complex setup to customize. Sure, whatever. I remember setting up my first HDS and it seemed absolutely bizarre. Having to get the reference manual out to change a light setting because you aren't going to remember anduril vs luxrc vs Icarus vs HDS vs ZL and on and on just gets annoying sometimes.

First world problems, eh? I've had worse, I suppose. When it gets under my skin too badly, I just go hide in a pile of Malkoffs and shake my fist at the sky
 

jon_slider

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it is just one of the several competing complex systems.
so true! ;-)

competing Programmable UI's is one reason I dont do Zebras and Overeadys (LuxRC)

but there is a difference between Using a UI and Programming some of its configurable options

Zebra, Oveready, Malkoff, HDS, Anduril all turn on and off the same way.. I only need to look at their manuals IF I want to change options
When it gets under my skin too badly, I just go hide in a pile of Malkoffs and shake my fist at the sky
LOL.. I can see it now.. Moses returns w the 10 UI commands.. and somebody complains about having to read the manual ;-)

Then somebody else comes along with a New Manual.. Oy Vey!
Nor AnOther Manual!

Thank you for your insights, I finally understand the reaction from Surefire users, when Slider comes down from the mountain with Yet Another UI!

Zebras and HDS and Andis, Oh My! ;-)
 

iacchus

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so true! ;-)

competing Programmable UI's is one reason I dont do Zebras and Overeadys (LuxRC)

but there is a difference between Using a UI and Programming some of its configurable options

Zebra, Oveready, Malkoff, HDS, Anduril all turn on and off the same way.. I only need to look at their manuals IF I want to change options

LOL.. I can see it now.. Moses returns w the 10 UI commands.. and somebody complains about having to read the manual ;-)

Then somebody else comes along with a New Manual.. Oy Vey!
Nor AnOther Manual!

Thank you for your insights, I finally understand the reaction from Surefire users, when Slider comes down from the mountain with Yet Another UI!

Zebras and HDS and Andis, Oh My! ;-)
Hey, I don't avoid 'em. I do Zebra's and HDS and LuxRC and Icarus/Doc Jones and I guess Anduril now. A few others to boot. One more reason for me to finally pull the trigger on a couple of Hanks I've been eyeing.
I'm no luddite and a complex UI has never stopped me from buying and using a torch that caught my eye. Much like the one you posted about here, which I went and bought yesterday.

But therein lay the annoyance. As a dyed-in-the-wool purveyor of the lighted variety, I do have all of the competing UIs to juggle, w/ more coming down the pike every quarter. That's not to mention firmware updates to flash and changes to existing firmware I need to relearn.
What I'm saying is I come by my squallin' honest here. It gets bothersome at times. Wouldn't it be nice if they all (or most) used a unified standard, even if that was Anduril, or a forked version?
Sure, that's not gonna happen. And I'm not gonna stop buying lights in the absence of some simplification. But I might gripe now and then. My eyes aren't what they used to be and it seems like the manuals are printed smaller and smaller every year. That's when I don't have to hunt down the most current PDF somewhere to download and scroll endlessly through.

Maybe I should just get glasses.
 

Monocrom

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Hire you a young nerd to program your light the way you want it.
You could put an Ad. on Craig's List.
 

jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
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Maybe I should just get glasses.
wont matter, will still need to reflash w new updates.. LOL

maybe start by modding the cataracts ;-)

fwiw, Hank offers Boost Drivers.. I think they are worth a look

Meanwhile, to get away from all the PWM in the TS10, I picked up an Emisar D2.. regulated and NoPWM, but still able to spend quality time w Andi's little Aux helpers

fwiw, the NoPWM alternative to a Zebra comes in the form of a Skilhunt.. The M150 is a versatile little dual fuel fella.. and can be had w Nichia 519a, and Orange!
 
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