Glock weaponlight w/LED?'s

I want to get a Glock weaponlight with the intent of sticking a P60 in it. I can get a DX drop-in and grind away untill it fits or unscrew the assembly from the reflector and stick it that way.

I just think it would be cool to have a Glock light with a P60 drop-in.

Anyone done so?

I have the G&P weaponlight that I stuffed my M60 in. It works great. I used it this weekend with 50 rounds of 10mm, 200 rounds of 357sig, 50 rounds of 40, and 75 rounds of 9mm on G35 w/9mm barrel, G32, G20. The G&P weaponlight can handle it, but I wish it was a Glock brand.

I never seen P60 sized pistol lights would be too large to mount to a Glock.

mega_lumens said:

I never seen P60 sized pistol lights would be too large to mount to a Glock.

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All G&P weaponlights use a P60 xenon. Any P60 drop-in will fit. In fact, I had plenty of room to wrap up the M60 in aluminum foil. It looks really cool with the Malkoff M60. If I had a new MC-E P60 from Gene?????????

The downside of the G&P weaponlight is that it may not be as water proof was I want it to be. No oring on glass. I am confidant it can handle rain, but I think if I dunked it in water it would allow water to go in.

You could find one of the old Surefire P111D Glock weapon lights. They used the P60 drop in but were large compared to the newer style. I have one on the way that I snagged from Ebay.

QtrHorse said:

You could find one of the old Surefire P111D Glock weapon lights. They used the P60 drop in but were large compared to the newer style. I have one on the way that I snagged from Ebay.

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Note that the Nitrolon WeaponLight has the batteries the 'wrong way round' and so will not power LED Lamp Assemblies such as the P60L that I'm aware of.

Size15's said:

Note that the Nitrolon WeaponLight has the batteries the 'wrong way round' and so will not power LED Lamp Assemblies such as the P60L that I'm aware of.

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I did not know that, thank you for the info. I was hoping you would chime in soon.

Stupid question but how does it power a P60 lamp assembly but not a Malkoff assembly with the battery backwards?

QtrHorse said:

I did not know that, thank you for the info. I was hoping you would chime in soon.

Stupid question but how does it power a P60 lamp assembly but not a Malkoff assembly with the battery backwards?

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Incandescent lamps (bulbs) are 'just a resistor' that is not polarity sensitive - the filament will resist the flow of electricity in either direction.

LEDs are Light Emitting Diodes - they are semiconductor diodes that emit light when an electric current is applied in the forward direction of the device (called the forward biased condition). If the current is reversed it will not pass through the LED as by it's very nature a diode unidirectional. If a high voltage and/or high current is applied such that there is very large reverse bias, beyond what is called the 'peak inverse voltage' the device will be damaged, perhaps even broken.

There are two main ways of preventing damage to electronics including LEDs by reverse current. The first is physically preventing the power source from being connected incorrectly. The second is electronics to convert the direction. I understand that the electronic method is quite wasteful and doesn't tend to be used that often.
Physical methods are better along with the bolstering of the ability of the electronics and LED to withstand reverse current, at least for short periods (long enough for the user to stop trying to activate the light and check the batteries)

I don't know whether aftermarket 'drop-ins' have any protection against reverse current.

Maybe it's just me, but I think weapon lights should be left stock. If it's that important a task, and I could have my life depending on it I want to know that there are police and thousands of other people using and testing the same setup. If I feel the need to upgrade, I'll buy a new one and use the old one on another gun.

Size15's said:

Incandescent lamps (bulbs) are 'just a resistor' that is not polarity sensitive - the filament will resist the flow of electricity in either direction.

LEDs are Light Emitting Diodes - they are semiconductor diodes that emit light when an electric current is applied in the forward direction of the device (called the forward biased condition). If the current is reversed it will not pass through the LED as by it's very nature a diode unidirectional. If a high voltage and/or high current is applied such that there is very large reverse bias, beyond what is called the 'peak inverse voltage' the device will be damaged, perhaps even broken.

There are two main ways of preventing damage to electronics including LEDs by reverse current. The first is physically preventing the power source from being connected incorrectly. The second is electronics to convert the direction. I understand that the electronic method is quite wasteful and doesn't tend to be used that often.
Physical methods are better along with the bolstering of the ability of the electronics and LED to withstand reverse current, at least for short periods (long enough for the user to stop trying to activate the light and check the batteries)

I don't know whether aftermarket 'drop-ins' have any protection against reverse current.

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Thank you again for the detailed answer. I don't know why I did not realize that. I have worked with LED's in the sign industry for years.

What is wrong with the X300? The M60 drop-ins are great but what you sacrifice in a larger light means additional weight on the end of your weapon. The X300 is compact and extremely bright!

Policetacteam said:

What is wrong with the X300? The M60 drop-ins are great but what you sacrifice in a larger light means additional weight on the end of your weapon. The X300 is compact and extremely bright!

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I don't think the X300 has any issues, but being P60 compatible would allow it's users to have the flexibility to change the light needed pursuant to the task required. Sometimes flood MC-E would be best, but sometimes the throw of the M60/R2 would be better. I think it would just good to make the light P60 compatible.

I like the G&P weaponlight because it is P60 compatible, but the build quality is consistant with its price (cheap). Plus, In a compact Glock frame they don't fit flush. They do fit flush and look better a full size Glock frames. Here she is with the Malkoff M60 wrapped many times over in aluminum foil.

Key word there is "cheap". I see your point and agree that a weapon light that would allow you to configure the drop-in to be mission specific would be useful. But...what is currently available at the time doesn't allow for that to happen. My personal opinion is figure out what you require from your weapon mounted light and go from there. The X200B or X300 fit the bill for the majority of handgun users. The light provides you enough light, both throw and spill, for CQB purposes and for slightly longer distances. If you figure how accurate any handgun, including my Glock's, are you realize that the X200B or X300 provide the perfect light for those distances.

Of course if you were to convince a major manufacturer that such a need exists you might be on to something! :naughty:

That's real cool!:sleepy:

Policetacteam said:

Key word there is "cheap".

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I once asked someone about a cheap handgun for concealed carry.

He asked me what my life was worth.

I added up the value of all my liquid assets, and the number depressed me.

I have a Glock tactical/laser light. Forgive my ignorance, but does this mean I can indeed modify it to take an LED? Any idea what the lumen output would be? Can someone explain how I would go about doing this? Thanks very much.

thread resurrection: this is the best discussion on any LED conversion for the P-Series Nitrolon WeaponLights I have found online. 5 years later; i have tested everything discussed above.


I have tried the P111 with the Malkoff M61 325 lumen drop in LED without success. I tried the batteries installed both ways. The M61, as stated on the website, is reverse polarity protected. The M61 still works after all testing in my SF G2. I also tested the original surefire P60 in the P111 with the batteries reverse; it did not light up. After all the testing was complete the P60 still works great in the P111.
There is also a special consideration for the M61 in the P111, the brass body at the base of the Malkoff is slightly too large for the Nitrolon body. I used one/two brass rings (provided by Malkoff) and elongated the spring of the Malkoff to temporarily mitigate this. One ring spacer worked with the P60, two made to much space. I considered dremeling the clearance; however the entire configuration does not seem to work anyway.

I am not sure why reversing the batteries doesn't work. The most interesting thing I found was that the P60 would not work in the P111 with the batteries reversed. To confirm this was strange I reversed the batteries in my SF G2 running a P60 and it lit up without issue. I tested all the above several times to make sure the results were correct. I figure this must have something to do with the way it is wired up inside...

The Malkoff LEDs are awesome! I run them in 5 other lights currently. The P111 is a nice package, I wish it worked in this light but it doesn't.

Eureka!

I found the problem and got the M61 LED to work in the P111D! The batteries weren't making contact on the negative end in the Nitrolon battery compartment. The usual positive contact end of the battery compartment is an almost flush metal button, and the negative end is a springy metal half circle. The negative end of the 123a battery has a thin non-conductive lip. The battery simply wasn't making contact. I added small washers in order to make contact with the batteries.
Unfortunately, the conversion does not end here. I also used one brass spacer at the base of the Malkoff M61 and two Malkoff spacer washers at the top in order to press the Malkoff head down to contact.

In conclusion: The Malkoff M61 does not simply drop in to the Surefire P111 WeaponLight. However, it is possible to perform a conversion.