Failed mag switch.

This morning my future mag31 host stopped working. Replaced batteries, still , tired the bulb in another light, no . The switch must of failed. I really don't want to spend 15 bucks to send back 24 bucks. Any ideas? I'm going to take out the switch to have a look at it. What parts are failure prone?

You can get replacement switches here:

http://www.flashlightking.com/cgi-b...EPLACEMENT_PARTS_C_or_D&cart_id=4923648.30146

Call maglite, they will send you a replacement switch with a how to guide and the allen wrench for free.

allburger said:

Call maglite, they will send you a replacement switch with a how to guide and the allen wrench for free.

Click to expand...

Not to Australia they won't, I tried once to get a switch cover and they weren't the least bit interested I eventually got a couple at a local camping shop, I think I paid about $4 each for them :sick2:
Norm

R@ndom said:

What parts are failure prone?

Click to expand...

When you take the switch apart, it becomes very obvious as to how it works. You can check it with a multimeter set to the OHMS scale, place one probe on the positive contact on the bottom of the switch and the other on the lamp positive, click the switch and the reading should alternate from infinity and all zeros.
Norm

Bit confused about the .

means the bulb blew - ie failed because volts was too high.

Do you mean the bulb did not work?
Give us an idea what you have - is it a WA 1331 bulb?
Do you have a multimeter? Do you have a powersupply of some type?

Just trying to work out the easiest way to diagnose the problem with the tools / equipment you have.

Sorry for the confusing first post. The bulbs haven't arrived yet, so I'm using it in stock form. The bulb works in another light.

I haven't got a bench power supply. Only a mm.

Great. Multimeter excellent!
Used it much?
You want either ohms or continuity. Easy if it's got a buzzer.

Pull the Mag switch out. Know how to do that?
The switch should be in the on position when you pull it out.
So there should be continuity/buzz/very low ohms when mm probe connected on the spring on the rear of the switch , other probe on the little brass nut on the bulb post.
That is the +ve connection from battery to bub. With switch in off position, connection is broken , no buzz.

-ve connection is via the metal piece on the bottom of the switch.
Rare that that will fail - it is a permanent connection - ie the switch does not break that connection.

Might have stated some obvious stuff here? No harm.

You can use mm in volts position to test if volts are getting to the bulb.
Easier to make a mistake though.

Thanks Cpf! It works fine now. The switch was fine. The positive contact spring got bunched up that's all.

R@ndom said:

Thanks Cpf! It works fine now. The switch was fine. The positive contact spring got bunched up that's all.

Click to expand...

Woohoo!
That spring is just a snug fit. You can pull it out and stretch it slightly.
I do that so it makes contact with flat top cells.

Besides the spring, one other tip...especially if you use that switch for more demanding bulbs--carbon arc'ing can develop where the small metal "donut" ring slides back and forth to make and break contact with thin strips on top/bottom.

You can clean surfaces a number of times with fine grit (400-600 grit) sandpaper to ensure good & smooth surface contact. If your switch ever sticks, that is the first thing to check.