new to forum with Surefire question

Hello new guy here. I have recently discovered this forum and seem to be catching the flashlight bug. I own 2 Surefire weapon lights and recently bought a Nitecore Infinity R2 (my first post CPF light). My question is what should I do to get a good LED weaponlight with a lot of throw. I currently own a SF M951 weapon light which has an incandescent bulb and has a lot of throw. I also have a M600 scoutlight with a KL4 head which doesnt seem to have very good throw. In fact my Nitecore is far superior. Is there something I can do to the scoutlight to increase the throw or should I look at getting a 6P and modifying it? Thanks for the help.
bob

:welcome:

Updating your ScoutLight from M600A to M600C is very straight forward:
Simply replace the KL4 with an KX2C. This will result in far higher output and a far more intense beam.

LED solutions for your M95 complicated because SureFire hasn't really got around to updating their LED bezels yet. You could get a KL5A bezel for it but your ScoutLight with KX2C would still have higher output.
So that kinda leaves you with the aftermarket alternatives and I'm sure you'll get suggestions soon enough.

Al

Thanks for the reply. I will be looking for a KX2C head now.
bob

I called Surefire with a question regarding the E2D which they said was essentially the same head and beam pattern as the KX2C but without the hi/low option. Not to doubt their customer service but for weapon light purposes would this be a good idea since I can get E2Ds for almost the same price as a KX2C head?
thanks
bob

The E2D uses a regular "crennulated" E-series bezel, with the incan MN03 lamp (60 lumens for 1.25(?) hours, as is available with the scout M600C, I believe. So, yes, in theory, you could buy an E2D, use the head and lamp from that on your scout light, though nowhere nearly as bright as the KX2C head, and use your KL4 head on the E2D. I use this on my scout light, and it throws enough for MY NEEDS, and has enoguh spill.

Or you can just sell your KL4 on the MP, get an MN03 and E-series bezel from there as well, and have money left over. Just make sure you look up prices to know what to ask for for the KL4 (They go for about $80-$85 in good condition...just for the head), and make sure you look to buy a black e-series bezel.

Hope this helps, and :welcome:. Great place, and great group of peeps!

I appreciate the reply. The E2D I asked them about was the 120 Lumen LED model. I am trying to stay away from incandescent weapon lights if I can avoid it as I have one already.
thanks
bob

No prob...well then, your best bet would be to just get a used KX2C head or a used E2D-LED from the MP, and save about $40, as SF's have a (basically) unconditional lifetime warranty. You break it, they fix it. That head would definitely be your best bet. Unlike alot of lights, SF's age alot longer than most lights, and a 2 year KL1 head works just as good as a new one. They're built that good.

And then you can just get a 2-Cell E-series body and T/C off the market place to use your KL4 as a pocket cannon.

At least you got the best weapon lights out there...I've had to purchase all my lights myself, as in my career field/mos, we don't get issued squat. Hope this helps, and if you have any mroe questions/need suggestions, just ask.

The E2D (sometimes written E2d) and it's LED version - the E2DL are different products.

Whilst it is possible to refer to the E2DL as the E2D LED, the convention to always include the "L" rather than the separate "LED" reduces confusion and improves clarity.

For example:
E2D, E2DL
6P, 6PL
G2, G2L
6PD, 6PDL
G3, G3L
Z2, Z2L
G2Z, G2ZL

Back to whether using the E2DL bezel on a weapon-mounted light is a viable option. The most significant issue is that the E2DL uses a dual output clickie user interface. Click on for high, click off and on again for low.
The UI allows the user to toggle from one to the other and back.
In fact, any break in circuit, perhaps even one so fleeting you'd hardly notice will be treated as signal to switch outputs.
The effects of weapons recoil have been shown to cause havoc with these dual output bezels as the batteries and switch contacts are shaken about.

If you are considering buying a whole flashlight instead of the bezel you need for a WeaponLight then you would be better to consider the VTAC-L4 which features the KX2C bezel.

Al

Ah, my apologizes! I was indeed referring to the E2DL even thought I did not know it. I don't like the sound of: "The effects of weapons recoil have been shown to cause havoc with these dual output bezels as the batteries and switch contacts are shaken about." So I believe I will heed everyone's advise and look for a KX2C head or at the VTAC-L. Thanks for all the help! :rock::rock:

Another option is to buy a Malkoff M60 and Malkoff E-Series conversion bezel. I have no experience with his bezel, but Gene's drop-in M60 modules are top rate. In my opinion, they are of Surefire quality, if not better. Oh, and Gene's customer service is ever-so-slightly better than even Surefire's (if that's possible).

Do some searching on the M60 dropins. You will be hard-pressed to find negative comments about them.

Try a Fenix TK10 or TK11! Won´t cost you a fortune!