Problem with Romisen rc-n3 q5

daguy80

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I have a problem with my romisen rc-n3 q5. When I use the 2 AA format the light is very dim, but when i switch it over to some R123 cells, the light is back to its normal brightness. Do you guys know what could be the problem?
 

kramer5150

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describe "very dim"... the original single mode N3 will be dimmer with the 2AA... it should be noticeable but not severe or drastic difference.
 

daguy80

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It is a lot dimmer. When I first received the light it was bright with 2 AA's but now the output is about 1/4 of what it would be with 1 Cr123 battery. Any ideas of what it could be?
 

hyperloop

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If you're using rechargable AAs, could it be that one of the cells is either dead or low voltage?
 

JBorneu

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Maybe the RC-n3 can't handle RCR123's, so it detroyed the boost circuit, and now it's running in direct drive (which is not very bight on 2AA's but you don't notice a difference on RCR123's).
 

daguy80

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I did not use rechargeable AA batteries and the alkaline batteries that I used are both brand new. I tried it with a Cr123 primary and the output is really low also. But when I put the Rcr123 back in it gets bright again. It seems to like only like one battery. I have two Rcr 123 same brand and same charge but for some reason one is about a lot brighter then the other. I am no expert but when I use the AA, cr123 primary and the other Rcr 123 the output is about less then 10 percent of full power.
 

kosPap

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this flashlight is supposed to work with all kinds of batts...

the simple answer is CHEAPIE board taht has something burned off...
 

pekcle

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I'm with JBorneu on this one. I had an RC-F4 Q5 where the driver went to permanent medium mode, about 2/3 original brightness. I was told that the board was supposed to officially support only up to 8.0V, but of course I used 2 x 4.2V = 8.4V. If you look at the specs for new Romisen lights such as the RC-A4, RC-C6, or RC-D6, the voltage specs go up to 4.0V max. At least now you can replace the driver with one that does support up to 4.2V.
 

daguy80

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How how would it be to replace the driver? I have no modding experience but I think I can do it if it is not to hard.
 

pekcle

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It would require unsoldering the wires connected to the LED, forcing the circuit out, putting a working one back in, and re-soldering wires back onto the LED.

You might want to weigh the pros and cons of fixing it vs buying a new one and saving yourself some time and work. If you don't have access to a soldering iron, it may add up in terms of cost. You also have to take some time finding the right circuit and it may take some time to ship.
 

daguy80

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What would be a good driver? Any advice? Would I be able to get to a driver that drives the Q5 very hard 1 or 1.2 amps? Would that be safe for 2 AA's or 1 Rcr123?
 

kramer5150

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Give Bryan @ shiningbeam a call or send him an email. If you are not experienced with DIY mods it would be better to pursue an RMA. He is an upstanding guy and stands by what he sells.
 

kramer5150

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What would be a good driver? Any advice? Would I be able to get to a driver that drives the Q5 very hard 1 or 1.2 amps? Would that be safe for 2 AA's or 1 Rcr123?

Its an odd shaped driver... ~15.5mm IIRC. So your choices are slim, compared to the more standard 17mm
 
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