1D Mag, what should I do?

chitoz28

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I just recently bought a 1D Mag from Will, what should I do with it (besides a P7)? I was thinking of the SST-50 or 90, but not sure if that'll be enough cooling for it to be as bright as possible. It's just been sitting on my night stand with 1 D-cell in it (not bright at all, barley turns the bulb on) waiting to get modified. Thanks for the ideas.
 

Chodes

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I just recently bought a 1D Mag from Will, what should I do with it (besides a P7)? I was thinking of the SST-50 or 90, but not sure if that'll be enough cooling for it to be as bright as possible. It's just been sitting on my night stand with 1 D-cell in it (not bright at all, barley turns the bulb on) waiting to get modified. Thanks for the ideas.

There's a bazillion options. Do you want to do some building or looking more for dropin solution. Budget? Throw or flood or between?
 

chitoz28

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Thanks for the reply guys. I'm pretty sure I'd like to build something, I'm in no hurry. I wouldn't mind something with alot of flood, I like this build https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/239582#goto_displaymodes, something similar, but I'm not too good with electronics. I was maybe thinking 2 P7's would be cool, maybe 3 14500 would be able to power them, but I'm not sure, and something with a low/hi. I don't know if this is asking too much.
 

old4570

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You have to stay within the batteries abilities , 3 x 14500 , just make sure the battery holder can withstand the current , 2 x SSC P7 may be around 20Watts at best , I would say 3 x 14500 would be good for one SSC P7 or 3 other emitters like SSC P4 , or Cree .

When the Cree XP-G become available , you may consider R4 emitters x 3 for some serious triple output .
 

Morelite

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I would use a rechareable Lithium D-cell before using a parallel 3x 14500 holder, you will get a lot more current available and capacity.
 

kz1000s1

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Hi,
Have you built or modded any other lights? Do you have any lights with a P7? If not, I would start out with a single P7. They work really well in a maglite. That's why they're so popular here. Or maybe a Cree MC-E led. You can run them on anything from multiple AA's to IMR 26650 and D lithium-ions. I have one with an SST-90 and heat isn't the biggest issue so far. It's giving it enough power to work well. They SST-50 may end up working better. For either of these SST's you'll have to modify or fabricate your own heatsink until they become available made for them.
 

chitoz28

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kz1000s1, (thanks for the reply) I have a 3d P7 with a driver that was built by a member from here, it has that 16 mode driver with a slave driver, works very good, I put it together. I am very interested in the sst-90, could you share how you put that together?
 

kz1000s1

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kz1000s1, (thanks for the reply) I have a 3d P7 with a driver that was built by a member from here, it has that 16 mode driver with a slave driver, works very good, I put it together. I am very interested in the sst-90, could you share how you put that together?

That's a nice light. You should have the skills then.
Here is my write-up on it so far: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/238442

If you have any other questions, let me know.
 

kz1000s1

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I think I'll want to try this, but I'm not sure what battery you're using, unless you're still testing which one is best for that led.

I started with an AW IMR18650 1600Mah because I already had one, 4.6A peak, then quickly declined.

Next I tried 3 D cell 10,000Mah NimH that were ok but didn't give
the amperage I thought they would, 4A. Didn't do a long term test.

Then I bought an IMR26650 4000Mah from Batteryspace.com. 4.25A peak and could maintain close to that for 6 min. test. This or a KD D cell Lithium-Ion are probably the best for a one cell setup right now.

AW has a prototype F cell (a long D) 7000Mah Lithium-Ion in an SST-90 light. Don't know when that may come out.

Right now I'm trying a 3D body with 4 C cell NimH, 2500Mah Energizers (not very good, but all I had) for 6A. Higher capacity cells should work better. No indications of overvoltage. The only problem is the D2Flex 10A multilevel driver has a whining noise on the middle levels with this setup that wasn't there before. I don't have any more money for this project and won't buying any other batteries, plus I like smaller lights, so I'm going to cut my 2D down to 1D size and use the IMR16650 for now. When higher bin emitters are available, I'll upgrade this one.

My forecast is the best output will be with a high amperage/normal voltage buck driver (nothing with the needed specs exists now that I know of) and multiple IMR cells, or to continue raising the voltage using direct drive until we find the actual limits.

When high bin SST-50's are available I think this might be the best choice. The smaller single die should give some nice throw.
 
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