Fenix LD20 problem?

Hey guys, I just received my Fenix LD20. I put in some batteries, turned it on, it was quite dull so I tried to turn the head to turbo mode. I did it then the light just went out! Now I've done everything & the Fenix won't turn back on! This was using brand new eneloop batteries, tried another set & nothing....

Did I receive a dodgy Fenix LD20? Before returning it, I would like to see if you guys can help? Thanks...

Having the same probs with my TK40.

is it common for them not to work out of the box?

Clean contacts, including the ends of the body tube. Try using primary batteries just to be sure. Check that you don't have a "loose" switch (no rattling). Where all else fail, time to contact your dealer.

Sorry bit of a n00b, how do I clean the contacts? I've only got normal household stuff like methalated spirits, etc.

Will this void my warranty?

Take a q-tip, and use some 100% alcohol (not hand sanitizer) to clean the conatcts, spring, and threads.
If this doesn't work (be sure to check the light with new primaries), take the tail cap completely off and shake it by your ear. If you hear a rattling, you need to tighten the retaining ring holding the switch inplace. Use a pair of needle nose pliers, but be careful not to over tighten it, it just needs to be snug, not tight.

And if this doesn't work, contact your dealer.

Oh, hey, forgot to add...
If neither of these work and you ahve to return it, don't be mad. There are some people out there who just don't seem to understand that not everything will work out of the box. Sometimes you just get that one that quality control missed. It's really not a big deal. Not everything is perfect. If it is a dud, don't let it put you off of the Fenix brand, they do make some really good stuff.

Just as John said. The ends of tube too, which are the exposed end parts of the aluminum body. Basically, you need to clean off excess lubrication, soot, whatever that might interfere with connection.

As for the switch, the needle-nose plier needs to clamp the 2 bored holes on the inside of the switch... twist clockwise to tighten, that is if you find out it's loose.

Zeruel said:

As for the switch, the needle-nose plier needs to clamp the 2 bored holes on the inside of the switch... twist clockwise to tighten, that is if you find out it's loose.

Click to expand...

+1 on this as a possibility. My neighbor ordered a pile of Fenix lights as gifts, and they came in 2 sets of slightly different packages.

All the ones in one style package had loose switch plates, found when one didn't turn on reliably. After tightening them all, no more problems. Since then, I routinely check this, and it's not uncommon for these to be loose.

Fenix needs a torque spec for these switch assemblies to make sure the assemblers are getting them done correctly.