Mag D Switch - Max Amp. Rating ?

Bob96

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I have upgraded my Mag D with glass lens - alumnium reflector - FM G-4 Bi-pin adapter I planned to us an AW Softstart Mag D Switch but they are not currently available or the next month or two.

Can the stock Mag D Switch take 10 amps for short bursts using 4 X 26500 IMR cells and a Oscam bulb? I know that it would be marginal for current load and head to the contacts - springs - plastic parts but didn't know if it might work for short periods until the AW switch is available?
 

Aircraft800

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It won't last too long, OK if you have a spare. The arc across the contacts will corrode causing high resistance, and subsequent on/off use will eventually burn it up. There are members here that have used the stock switch to around 3.5A, (Mag85, Mag61, Mag11) I think even 5A would be bad long term.
 

Bob96

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In a marginal situation as discribed would it matter to switch life if it was used on-off or momentary? Is one mode harder on the switch than the other?
 

Aircraft800

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In a marginal situation as discribed would it matter to switch life if it was used on-off or momentary? Is one mode harder on the switch than the other?

I borrowed this from wikipedia, the same principles apply here.

A switch is most vulnerable when the contacts are opening or closing. As the switch is closed, the resistance of the switch changes from nearly infinite to nearly zero. At infinite resistance, no current flows and no power is dissipated. At zero resistance, there is no voltage drop and no power is dissipated. When the switch changes state however, there is a brief instant of partial contact when resistance is neither zero nor infinite and power is dissipated. During that transition the contacts heat up. If the heating is excessive, the contacts can be damaged or even weld themselves closed.

In addition, during the transition when the contact is broken there is an additional issue that if an inductive load is being switched, the stored energy in the inductor is dissipated as an arc within the switch, prolonging the transition and worsening the heating effect on the contacts. Thus switches are commonly rated by the current they are designed to break, as this is the most stringent constraint.

The arc that results when the switch operates corrodes the switch contacts, in time leading to erosion of the contact surface and fouling of the contact area by corrosion byproducts. A switch therefore has a finite life, again often being rated at a given number of cycles of disconnection at a specified current. Operation outside its design envelope will shorten the switch life very drastically.

To combat contact corrosion a switch is usually designed to have a wipe action such that the contact corrosion is cleaned off the area of the contact that forms the low resistance path when the switch is closed. It's also designed so that the initial point of contact, and thus the majority of the contact corrosion, occurs at a sacrificial part of the contact, rather than the face that is in contact when the switch is fully closed. Depending on the switch rating and price, the contact area of the switch is often a sophisticated construction of brass contact, silver contact button, and plated finish to minimize the amount of contact corrosion and thus extend the life of the switch.
 

SmurfTacular

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I currently have a triple P7 Maglite with the original Mag switch.

But, the battery voltage bypasses the switch, and goes directly to Der Wichtels driver. From there it goes to the switch to determine its modes.

Otherwise I would recommend a rocker switch.
 

mrartillery

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Sure but it wont last long, as has already been stated the small contacts within the switch can burn up or melt in worst case scenario, either way you will have a lot of unnecessary resistance which will hinder your performance. I do have 3 Mags that I'm currently running in the 5-5.5 amp range with the stock Mag clicky and never any problems or loss of performance, but I would never go any higher than that. For all my high amperage bulbs I use the rocker switch, this is a wonderful way to power up those large high amp drain bulbs, and its a fairly easy install. Check out my sig line for info. :thumbsup:
 
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