SF E2L body + Rogue 1 head = Wow!

So I was playing around with my new Rogue 1 today at lunch, and decided to see the head of this light would work on my E2L body. (<< Actually, I used my L4 body. But it's the same thing..)

And what do you know. It does! It fits right onto the body. It's like a little E-series turbo head! Sure, the threads don't match up. But it still lights the Rogue head right up. And it's much brighter too! :twothumbs

After playing with it, I went and put the Rogue 1 back together and I think I may have messed it up. Now it won't click back and forth between high and low modes. It just stays on its highest mode. :mecry: Oh, well, it was fun while it lasted.

Now that I think about it, I should have used a 1 cell E-series body instead. Maybe that wouldn't have been too much juice for it.. :shakehead

ETA: Here's a picture of the E-series body with the Rogue LED head on it. It's like it was made for it! Too bad PK never made a turbo head for these lights. That would be awesome..

So you took a the Rogue (1AA) head and forced it on the the E2 body and slammed it with ~6V...:fail:

ouch...poor light

I wonder if the miss-matched threads are contributing to the mode wipeout. An E1 body with a CR123 would have been a safer lego. it might also work with the rogueII on the E1 body... if the threads don't mis-match too severely.

Slammed? It drops right on there. How is that slamming?? ETA: Oh, you are referring to voltage. Whatever.

Sure, I knew that I should've tried it with a Rogue 2 head, but I don't own a Rogue 2 head. Nor did I have a 1-cell SF body at the time. I just did it, to do it.

Besides, it's just a flashlight. Let alone a $20 dollar flashlight.

Please take a deep breath. It's not like I strangled a puppy or anything...

I wanted to see if it would work with one CR123. So I went into the break room, busted out some aluminum foil and fashioned a quickie battery spacer.

Sure enough. It works too! And it appears to be just as bright as when I had it running on 2 CR123's. Of course I don't have any equipment to test it, so your mileage may vary.. :candle:

ETA: Doh! I didn't even think about operating the clickie on the body. Sure enough. The low mode is back when running it with one CR123!!! :twothumbs

I didn't run it for very long. Maybe just a few minutes. But this turned out to be a fun little experiment. Now I just need to throw this on my E1 body when I get home and see what happens. Maybe run it a little longer...

A 14500 li-ion works great in the Rogue I. From what I understand the Rogue I and II heads are interchangeable. Regardless, the li-ion cranks up the output and still maintains a low mode, although a little brighter than low on alkies. Also, there have been no ill effects and the light still works when switched back to Nihm on alkaline.

Let It Bleed said:

A 14500 li-ion works great in the Rogue I. From what I understand the Rogue I and II heads are interchangeable. Regardless, the li-ion cranks up the output and still maintains a low mode, although a little brighter than low on alkies. Also, there have been no ill effects and the light still works when switched back to Nihm on alkaline.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!! :twothumbs

I now have my Rogue head on my E1 body and it works great. I am getting both high and low modes with my stock Z57 clickie. If I can find a way of attaching it so the head doesn't fall off, I would love to leave it like this. The beam quality is absolutely beautiful with pretty good throw to boot..

I think that little spell running it on 6V didn't do it any good.

Oh, brother was it bright! But I don't think it could handle that much juice. It's now running only on a low setting, probably less than 6 lumens..

Oh, well. I'll just go buy another one, and save this one for spare parts...

I've got an E2L body. Tossing a Rogue 2 head on it sounds interesting.

It wouldn't have to be a E2L specifically, this head fits on any E-series body.

But I don't recommend using it with 6 volts. 3 volts might (emphasis on might!) be fine, but 6V is too much for it to handle. That's probably due to insufficient heatsinking..

Ok. Just when I thought this was dead, it's back to running at full blast again.

I put it back on my E1 body running it with 3 volts on a fresh CR123. And it's bright as all can get out. :thinking: I don't know how much that is exactly, but it's brighter than stock.

So after trying that for a few minutes, I took the head off that and ran it on its ICON body with a Duracell AA. And now it is running on high mode, and puting out what it did originally - about 50+ lumens or so. Low mode is not working, though..

I guess I didn't kill it after all.....

exceeding the driver overvoltage limit is more like it, it has very little to do with heatsinking.

looks like it had some sort of overvoltage cutoff but I wouldn't go and give it a test again:laughing:

That makes sense.

But, it's just so damn tempting. It's like this head was made to drop right onto an E-series body. I simply couldn't resist giving it some juice...

Don't know if this relates, but as my battery started to run out of juice, while on high mode, the light would quickly dim down to zero output and then automatically come back on in low mode.

I had my doubts about these lights based on some of the reviews, but I've found them to be really good lights. The tint is wonderfully white and the beam has none of the XR-E rings. It has a small but bright hotspot with a uniform and very useful spill. At $20 it's definitely a good deal.

I agree, wholeheartedly! The beam on these Rogue lights is fantastic. It's a good mix of flood and throw, with none of those annoying cree rings. I only wish my KX2 head had this same beam quality. But, alas, it doesn't..

But really, for $20, how can you go wrong?

.

I am going over to RadioShack after work and snagging the other one that they had before someone else does...