Seeking light to mount to my bike

dvalBang

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Well, i have just gotten myself a new bike :) and am looking for a light to attach to it, but i realise that i'm not going to get a dedicated bike light, within a reasonable price, plus i could do with a strong flashlight for other purposes.

Probably mainly for riding on the road, but i need it to be bright enough to light up the road ahead of me, cos i go out places where there aint any street lights, but had to stop with that when it got dark at night :L

Preferably not too expensive please :)

One past suggestion i have had from here is a Romisen RC-N3, but i never went ahead with the purchase... Not sure if that would be a good light to use on a bike or not? Anyone have beamshots?


Since i'm noob, could you please, if possible, show me a beamshot of lights you recommend? Thanks :D
 

PerttiK

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If you're ok with AA batteries, take a look at these in addition to the romisen:
Fenix E21, robust, good build quality, good runtime on low around 11hours.
Itp SA2, ok quality, stepless brightness control, but quite low pwm frequency when not in max.
 

vickers214

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Hi,

I use a Eagletac P10A2 on my bike for a feew reasons, it has decent spill due to the OP reflector, 2 easily operated power levels by a twist of the head, which has flat sides to make it easy, so if im on a bit of lit road i use 60 lumen low, which is fine, but if i nip down a track i twist on the 220 lumen high to really light the road up.

And if i get stuck i can chuck a couple of AA's in it if my Eneloops run down. and the build is top notch, it feels like it will last for ever.
 

tandem

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Warning, I'm an AA cell-a-holic. There are other options open to you that can pack even more output into a small package but I refuse to consider them because I am sold on the AA format specifically in Sanyo Eneloop (and comparable) low self discharge rechargables. Cheap, reliable, easy to work with. All my opinions on lights are shaped by this bias.

For road biking I use a Planet Bike Blaze 2W bike light *and* a Fenix LD10 R4 on my drop bars. I ride frequently at night both for commuting and pleasure, almost year round. It's rainy here seemingly most of the year (I jest) but in particular in the late fall/early winter the combo of dark and rain means good lighting is critical in this big city. We are also fortunate to be able to ride to country side in about 10 minutes from our house so streets with no lighting, or well gravelled trails, are also part of any night rides. A typical ride at night for me is 20 - 40km, sometimes that much each way if going to a destination.

The Blaze is a 2xAA cell (side by side format) light, $34 CAD. We have a few of them around here for my wife and kids bikes. They include an easy to install quick release mechanism, have a low/high/strobe series of outputs and are plenty bright on their own for most city and limited country (no street light) riding. At 34$ it is one of the better low cost bike-specific choices out there in my opinion. I always reach for one of these even if I also have my Fenix light on board, just for convenience and redundancy if nothing else.

It puts out light in a more controlled beam width than most LED flashlights do. Here's a comparison done by someone else between the Blaze 2W and an older Fenix L2D (2xAA slightly older tech now) flashlight and the Blaze 2W. That shot doesn't show what the author probably saw with his own eyes - more spill on the Fenix.

I've been meaning to do a similar comparison between the Blaze and my every day carry light the Fenix LD10 R4, will try to do that in the next few days if the rain ever stops here.

I'm not really sold on 2xAA "in-line" on the handle bars of my roadbike because I find the form factor too long. A 1xAA light typically sits extremely solidly in a TwoFish lockblock (a nifty attachment system, cheap, but you can make your own with a length of old inner tube). Not only that 1xAA doesn't protrude back into the cockpit area of your bike. I fear that much overhang there could get in the way when climbing (standing) vigorously. This may not be an issue for you, and indeed a great many people ride with 2xAA lights and they give you the great advantage of more run time without stopping to change cells where I have to stop after an hour and a half (if running on high output) and swap a cell.

My own evaluation of whether a 1xAA really works for me *for riding* is still on-going. For regular commuting I find it ideal. For long training rides - it is nothing to swap a cell out once during the ride. In the long run I'm trying to determine what sort of alternative lighting I can use for doing very long rides which include substantial night riding (brevets - 200km, 300km, 600km and more). Swapping cells out several times a night may not be so appealing then.

But for other purposes I generally much favour single cell lights, so I'm motivated to try to make that work to get the most bang for my bucks.

The only other light format that interests me is a 4xAA format for a general purpose usage. There's a possibility this could find use on a bike. Higher output levels over a longer run time are the main reason I'm considering this but I'd be buying such a light (the soon to be shipping Fenix LD40) for other purposes first and foremost so won't be devastated if the light proves to be too long or too heavy for regular use on the bike.

At this point I'm pretty happy with the Fenix LD10 R4 - it is bright and very good runtimes - generally leading the class for comparable lights right now. In the daytime on gloomy days I run it in strobe mode.

Incidentally in the rear of the bike I now run a Portland Design Works Radbot 1000 high powered blinkie. The Planet Bike SuperFlash is another popular rear blinkie - we have 6 of those; when the Radbot came out I had to get one as the local reseller has them on at the same price and they are easily double the output of the SuperFlash. Both are good, I would not hestitate to get a SuperFlash if the Radbot is not available to you. The Radbot will chew through AAA cells somewhat faster than the SuperFlash.

If I were to look at 2xAA lights as an alternative the LD20 is the one I would probably turn to at present, again because I'm always keen to think of these as general purpose lights and being involved in emergency management and disaster response I'm always considering emergency use as a core use which means I need lights that know how to run well on regular alkalines in a pinch. The LD10/20 are industry leading in this regard.

Another light that is soon to be released that has the 1xAA format, runtime and output characteristics I like is the Zebralight SC51 (recent review on CPF) - when it comes out it will challenge or beat even the LD10 R4 for output and runtimes on all common AA cell types including NiMH, Lithium, and Alkaline. This interests me for reasons other than biking of course, but one downside for bikers: no strobe mode.

PS: Often strobe mode on flashlights with a "tactical" heritage are nauseatingly fast. If this is true for whatever light you buy you may find that you can only run it in that mode during the daytime.

PSPS: On the specific Romisen you've mentioned you might just find it is too narrow a beam. Try to find some beamshots comparing it or other riders with same just to be sure if you do go that way. Ideally you want some spill so that you can see things on the side of the road just about to run/walk/jump into your path. I quite often surprise skunks and raccoons on my rides - if I only had a narrowly focussed spot beam in front of me I'm 100% sure I'd have hit some of these at 20 - 35kph by now. Messy.
 
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burntoshine

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one thing i recommend is the little rubber flashlight mounts.

you can get them here cheaper, but it takes 1 to 2 weeks for delivery.

or you can get them here and get them in a couple days.

i would recommend a Quark AA or 123. i like the neutral white tints better, but tint is personal preference.

this is my setup; i use a neutral white Quark 123 tactical and a neutral white Liteflux LF3XT...

headlice.jpg
 

vickers214

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I hear what you are saying re the 2aa format being a bit long, but in my 2 fish mount i put the light in the middle and it stops a lot of wobble over the rough stuff.

I did also tey my Quark AA tac, and yes it looks LOADS better and is more solid, i found the drop in output to keep any kind of usefull run time unacceptable, as in light too dim to be usefull, or usefull STOP.

I find the 60 lumen low and 8 hrs run time perfect for most riding, when the crees get the run times on 1 aa in future i will make the switch
 

GunnarGG

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I use a EagleTac P20C2 neutral white, it on a Fenix bikemount, it works fine.

Anyway, I think there are so many lights to choose from. Pick your battery configuration and then I think you can find a light that works from Fenix, EagleTac, Jetbeam, Quark etc. At a little lower cost Romisen and ITP.
I think 18650 is the best if you want both a lot of light and runtime.
This light I think some guys use for biking:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/278285

Edit:
About that Fenix bikemount: It seems that most people suggest the Twofish bikemount and maybe that is the best. It is said that Fenix mount rattles and that is correct. The lower part mounts to the bike very solidly and the light mounts in the upper part very solidly but the upper and lower part rattles in relation to each other. I put two pieces that I cut from a creditcard between the upper and lower part and then some tape around it. It's very solid now. Maybe the twofish block is just as solid without modding and than a better buy, I just havn't tried it.
 
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B0wz3r

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I've been a regular bike commuter for 20 years; up until this last semester I rode back and forth to my office on the campus where I teach 4 days a week.

My experience has shown me that the new high quality LED flashlights simply blow away anything that is a dedicated bike light at the same price level, and to get a comparable level of performance out of something like a NiteRider system you'll spend about 5x as much.

First, go with neutral white lights as they will give better depth perception than cool whites, and also will show colors better. Cool white lights will rob you of a lot of detail, especially off road, that will help you see how far away something is.

Second, don't worry about 2xAA inline vs side by side; unless you're riding on aero bars with your nose to the stem, it's not really going to matter, and even in that case, just mount the light under your bar instead of above it as it will get it out of the way and make no difference in how it lights up the road.

Third, a mix of two lights, one for flood and one for throw will work best. I use a Quark XPG NW with an 18650 tube on my bars with a two-fish bikeblock and have it pointed so it illuminates the ground directly in front of my bike. This way I can see the road and various hazards and debris easily and in plenty of time to avoid them. If you ride a little faster, just tilt it up a little more to see further ahead. The 18650 runs at a slightly higher voltage than the 2xAA and to me it looks like there's a little bit of a brightness boost on high because of it, and lasts at least 2x as long as 2xAA. I rarely need to use max though, as the high mode is almost always plenty of light.

Fourth, I have a Jetbeam RRT0 Q3 neutral white on my helmet mounted with another twofish block. For me this is the perfect light to complement the floody quark. It has incredible throw, so I can put light on things 100+ yards down the road with ease, and it goes wherever I look. I try to avoid flashing oncoming cars but once in a while I have to do so to make myself seen, and the RRT0 on high never fails to make people slow down and give me more room on my side of the road. The RRT also has the advantage of the control ring UI which makes switching modes much easier, even with full finger gloves on. Simply reach up and give the ring a flick; having to try to grip the light and do a half click or double click to get the next setting is far more difficult than just turning the control ring.

This set up works extremely well for me; hopefully this info will be useful/helpful to you.
 

tandem

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I also use a headlamp, currently a fairly inexpensive multi-LED unit bought a few years ago. Being able to point it left and right at cars when necessary, potential animals human or not, is very useful. I plan on upgrading this real soon now, probably with the new SC51 from Zebralight although I am concerned about having it mounted to one side of my head rather than directly in front as with the H51. Pondering that still.

Don't forget passive reflective gear too, and your rear.
 

samgab

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I work nights and commute a round trip of 27kms in the dark, a mixture of city streets and darkish bike paths.
I've lately started using a Fenix LD20 R4 attached to my helmet by the pocket clip, which is sufficiently strong to hold it attached like this:
IMG_1726.jpg

IMG_1727.jpg


It's not too heavy, I don't notice it there much.
I use the diffuser and strobe mode in well light streets with traffic, and flip up the diffuser and put it on steady turbo mode on dark bike paths. It points in just the right direction attached like that, I find.
I've also tried it attached to the bike using a Fenix bike mount, but I prefer it on the helmet.
 

jacktheclipper

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Another vote for the iTP SA2
I use mine on medium most of the time and it's been going a long time on some lithium primaries . And if you need it high or a strobe .
 
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sol-leks

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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the MG SST-50 Rocket, since it was designed for biking.

I like the aforementioned idea of a headlamp though too.

I haven't tried it, but I think one of the many zooming ashperic lights might be good too. The big flat spot it puts out seems perfect for keeping an eye on the road ahead. I personally like the rc-29 or rc-c6.
 

gnicky11

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This setup may be out of your price range, but I didn't see a price limit specifically. This is what I use:

Jet-III Pro (white or warm tints available)
http://goinggear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_22&products_id=132

Rotating rubber strap mount
http://goinggear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_25&products_id=156

What I like about the setup is that I can change modes on the light easily while riding to whatever I want, from lighting up the path, to signaling so I can be seen. You get really long runtime with 18650 rechargeables (will run all night at default high with a good battery). Plus you get a highly useful & rugged flashlight for general use.
 
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tandem

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You get really long runtime with 18650 rechargeables (will run all night at default high with a good battery).

How long are the nights where you live? The link you provided specs a light that runs @180 lumens for 2.5 hours.

If I could get a light that output 180 - 280 lumens off a single 18650 rechargeable cell for the entire night (or even for 5 hours) I might get past my AA cell bias, at least for biking purposes.
 

jacketch

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This person has what appears to be a very nice set up:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3513800&postcount=1060

(Scroll down to the 5th and 6th photos.)

I have two SolarForce lights under my bars with a third on the stem, all mounted on Twofish blocks, running ThruNite XP-G drop-ins and 18650's. I also have a cheap Chinese headlamp from Lighthound that works great for lighting up whatever I point my helmet at. Altogether more than enough light.
 

pae77

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I have two SolarForce lights under my bars with a third on the stem, all mounted on Twofish blocks, running ThruNite XP-G drop-ins and 18650's. I also have a cheap Chinese headlamp from Lighthound that works great for lighting up whatever I point my helmet at. Altogether more than enough light.
Sounds great. Personally, I think lights powered by 18650's with one or more XPG emitters are most definitely the best way to go. The 18650 gives you lots of cheap rechargeable power, higher voltage (brighter) and long runtime, and the XPG gives you lots of light with arguably the best (most useful) beam along with the most efficiency.

And the Solarforce L2's plus XPG drop ins are probably one of the least expensive ways of getting both of the above along with decent quality.
 
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gnicky11

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How long are the nights where you live? The link you provided specs a light that runs @180 lumens for 2.5 hours.

If I could get a light that output 180 - 280 lumens off a single 18650 rechargeable cell for the entire night (or even for 5 hours) I might get past my AA cell bias, at least for biking purposes.

Actually, set at 180 lumens, the light will go for close to 5 hours (although not maintaining 180 at the end). With a single 18650, it is partially regulated, so it will dim before cutting off. But if I think I will be using the light for more that 5 hours straight, I can set it at 50%. However, I suppose I wasn't being literal on the "all night" comment - sorry for that.


BTW - coincidentally, I have my Jet III Pro illuminating my Ravens Banner here as I type. The light has been on default high since 7:45 this morning. I'll let you know how long it goes...



UPDATE: At 11:45, the 4-hour point, the light was still really strong (by my eye). At 12:45, the 5-hour, the light was still pretty bright, but noticably dimmer. At 2:10, it went to a flashing mode and I turned it off. This was with a blue 2500 maH trustfire 18650. So I'll still say it lasts 5 hours. A rating of 2 hours 15 minutes is very conservative IMO and possibly was improved in the BVC model considering the Jet-III M is rates at 240 lum for 3 hours with the same emitter.
 
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joe1512

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Ive been asking and researching this too.

So far the best contenders have been:

2 flood-to-throw lights from DX for 12.50 each including bike mount. 3xAAA for a very short length. A bit concerned about providing enough light.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26800

A 20 dollar MC-E light driven at around 1.8 Amps. Multimode, 1x18650. Should be 300 lumens OTF or so.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39359

This was recommended. 19 dollar XP-G light. Similar brightness as above but at lower current. I am worried it wont be as floody or as bright.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39233

I am afraid that a smaller light like my A1 would get too hot to run consistently on High mode. Otherwise it would be perfect at 2.3 inches long and 200 lumens. Medium mode at 30 lumens doesn't cut it.
 

B0wz3r

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Ive been asking and researching this too.

So far the best contenders have been:

2 flood-to-throw lights from DX for 12.50 each including bike mount. 3xAAA for a very short length. A bit concerned about providing enough light.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26800

A 20 dollar MC-E light driven at around 1.8 Amps. Multimode, 1x18650. Should be 300 lumens OTF or so.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39359

This was recommended. 19 dollar XP-G light. Similar brightness as above but at lower current. I am worried it wont be as floody or as bright.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39233

I am afraid that a smaller light like my A1 would get too hot to run consistently on High mode. Otherwise it would be perfect at 2.3 inches long and 200 lumens. Medium mode at 30 lumens doesn't cut it.

Keep in mind that pretty much any light you buy from DX is NOT going to be regulated, so the brightness will drop off steadily as the batteries deplete. You will also get a greater drop in OTF vs emitter lumens as the cheap lights typically do not use anti-reflective lenses, reflectors that aren't specifically designed for a particular emitter, and most of all, little if any warranty coverage.

If you can afford it, it really is worth it in the long run to pay for better quality name brand lights that come from a company with a reputation for good products and customer service.
 
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