light for home defense shotgun

I looked through Google search and couldn't find much. I'm gonna be purchasing a mossberg 930 SPX for a home defense gun. There is a way to mount rails on a barrel, tube bracket but what light would work best? I would like to use a pressure pad to turn it on and off. I like the idea of malkoffs simple two modes but can say an MD2 work with a pressure pad? I'd like to go no larger than a two cell light but would like a high quality light for reliability. Could anybody give any suggestions regarding specifically the 930SPX and a light setup?

You could always get a Streamlight TLR-2 and get the pressure switch for it. Its a good gun light and has the light and laser. I've seen more than a few guys with TLR's mounted on their pistols and rifles.

Hossanator said:

You could always get a Streamlight TLR-2 and get the pressure switch for it. Its a good gun light and has the light and laser. I've seen more than a few guys with TLR's mounted on their pistols and rifles.

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I know its a popular choice for a small weapon light. The thing is I really dont have any need or want for the laser. I have also never used one but think for a shotgun that could see some hard use it might not be able to take it for extended periods. I plan on also taking it when the wife and I go camping/hiking through the woods of northern Minnesota, as the bear and wolf population is on the rise.

Surefire/Malkoff Combo.

1) 1" Light Mount (pick one) (Surefire's is the M79) $15-$50
2) SF G2/6P Body (or variant) $18-$30
3) Bezel (Z44 Model) (metal and to match body color if needed) $18
4) Malkoff Drop-In (M60/M61) $45-$65
5) Tape Switch (Surefire no longer sales the simple tail-cap tape switches, but there are several after market tape switch tail-caps avail.)

Do a google search for "tape switch surefire" and you'll find some of the aftermarket ones.

Poormans weaponlight SF L60 with U0505B universal on/off rocker switch and pressure pad module (comes with A21 adapter). The Z32 is a Shock Isolated Bezel which would nest a MD M60 or M61 perfectly. Got L60 from CPFMP and U0505B from Ebay. The second photo is the the L60 with the A21 and a A13 (tact light adapter to use B65 for when training).

The tapeswitch tailcaps (although no longer sold by SF) are the U0505B as big lou mentioned, the U05 (Black, type-II for the 660/960 universal weaponlights) or the UM05 (HA for the Millenium Series), although they may show up in different sizes, i.e. U07/UM07, etc..

The Z32 ISN'T recommended for LED's (especially an M60) as tests conducted by CPF members have concluded that the Z32 traps EXCESSIVE amounts of heat, and can damage the LED drop-in. This is due to the "Foam" shock absorber, the huge air-pocket, etc., that traps the heat inside the bezel. This isn't a problem with Incan drop-ins (which the Z32 was designed for).

The L60/A21 will work as Big Lou mentioned, but may be harder for you to source. The Z44 will fit on the L60 as well, and with no foam/air pocket, it allows the heat generated by the drop-in to dissipate through the bezel and into the air away from the drop-in.

Interesting. I happen to have a new, sealed bag with a U0505B and an A21 in it sitting in a drawer somewhere as well as a second one that I've removed from the packaging. The A21 is being used with an LU60 to make a SureFire Lego 3P. I was thinking of using the U0505B with my Solarforce L2, which is already attached to my Remington 870 magazine extension but I want to attach it to the forearm instead of the barrel if I use the U0505B. The problem is that I now want to get a CDM Gear flashlight attachment and use that which means that I need a flexible tailswitch or I'll be using the stock Solarforce reverse-clicky.

WRT to weapon-mounted lights, I've said it before and I'll say it again: do not use multi-mode lights on home defense weapons. The last thing you want to have happen is to need to turn it on in a moment of crisis and find that you last used it on low or moonlight mode and the moment of "WTF" on your part could be disastrous. One mode means that it will always turn on in the correct mode every time.

The light that I have on my Remington 870 is a battered old Solarforce L2 with the original reverse clicky tailcap. The reverse clicky tailcap would seem to make more sense in this situation than a forward clicky since I know the light will turn on and stay on when I've pressed the button enough to latch the switch. With a forward clicky, the light will come on before it latches and I may, under stress, let go of the button and the light would go out if it didn't latch. Again, this could be disastrous. The LED module in it is an older Dereelight 1SD module: rated up to 4.2V and single mode, good for about 200 lumens and it has a nice, tight hotspot. It is currently mounted to my magazine extension using a barrel clamp. I know that this is not ideal and I haven't tried it to see if it'll move under recoil but it is the best that I can do with my limited budget. I'm hoping to either make my own version of the CDM Gear clamp or to just bite the bullet and buy one. The best part is that I don't need to shoulder the weapon to use it as the hotspot is pretty much where the shotgun will pattern.

like this

Those forend lights look awesome and I will prob go with that setup when they come out for the 930 series.

I've gotten some awesome suggestions so far and am currently searching for a surefire tape switch that will fit a malkoff MD2.

I wouldn't work to hard finding a tape switch.

I use a couple Surefire X400's without the tape switch's on both pistols and rilfes even after I paid through the A** for the Surefire remote switches (and the x400's LOL).

Mount it near your thumb and practice and you should be fine.

Ben

Can someone confirm that the surefire XM07 would work on a malkoff MD body?

http://www.surefire.com/XM07-Remote-Tailcap-Switch-Classic-Millennium

Yes, I agree - tape switches are often more trouble than they are worth. They can come loose or snag on things, or they turn on/off inadvertently. If you have rails like on an AR15, it's simple to mount the light near the location where your thumb is.

Max_Power said:

Yes, I agree - tape switches are often more trouble than they are worth. They can come loose or snag on things, or they turn on/off inadvertently. If you have rails like on an AR15, it's simple to mount the light near the location where your thumb is.

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I guess I can see your point. That's why I'm thinking the XM07 might be a good answer because of also having a push button as well as a pressure switch.

For home defense, I would go with the Malkoff M60F. The flood lens is amazing for indoor use.

Surefire Dedicated WL FTW. Here is my Mossberg 500A with the 623LFG (80 lumen P60L) and a XENO SS Crenelated Bezel.

Here it is with the A13 adapter to use SF B65 rechargable battery.

Here it is with a KX4 for 120 lumens.

BTW,

I thought about trying out a xd flashlight holder and putting it on the factory rail of my spx in front of the sight.
And just running a pressure switch to the grip.

I tried it with my xd mag loader since it is the same attachment.
And it is has a little wiggle to it but will work none the less.

Guess i need play order me one and make it fit snug lol.

My 870 sports a G2L, with a Malkoff M61 drop in, in a VTAC mount. I love the flood, yet it still has a blinding hot spot.

I think it's prudent to mention:

I used to be leery of weapon lights with over 80 or so lumen, until a training course showed me that any decent light will ruin your night adapted vision.

I think it's more important to identify the threat, as well as blind and disorient the attacker than to try to protect your night vision, which is going to go anyways.

That said, remember, you know your house, and he doesn't, so use the light as little as possible, and as much as necessary.

Tack Driver said:

My 870 sports a G2L, with a Malkoff M61 drop in, in a VTAC mount. I love the flood, yet it still has a blinding hot spot.

I think it's prudent to mention:

I used to be leery of weapon lights with over 80 or so lumen, until a training course showed me that any decent light will ruin your night adapted vision.

I think it's more important to identify the threat, as well as blind and disorient the attacker than to try to protect your night vision, which is going to go anyways.

That said, remember, you know your house, and he doesn't, so use the light as little as possible, and as much as necessary.

Click to expand...

That is really good advise. I think ill maybe start out with a barrel/tube clamp with rail and mount a Malkoff MD2 to it. If I find the need I can always hunt down a pressure switch of somekind. Thanks guys for all the thoughts. Please keep them coming though if you would like. Its always nice to learn new things and ill post a pic of my setup when I get it complete.
lovecpf

Surefire or try dealextreme for a mount and/or remote switch